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can't speak to the deuce specificly on this one - but on other vehicles the only time i've had that much blow by is from failed rings or a burnt piston. might be time for a compression test of the cylinders to see if you have a bad one.

to plumb it back into the intake pre-turbo you would have to add a catch-can to seperate the oil from the gasses. then you would have to check it regularly to see when it needed to be drained.

yeah I saw that the ones on the website said they could fit into 15" wheels when your rotors are 15"

i would consider keeping a zipper boot in the "emergency repair parts bin" but otherwise would use the solid silicone ones.

1000$ per axle for the brakes. ouch

rod failure modes not from RPM happen on compression stroke: -pre-ignition or detonation causes rod bend or fracture -rod bearing failure resulting int he piston impacting the head - end result is failed piston and or rod Failure modes from high RPM happen at the transition from exhaust to...

the 55 gallon drum mod is probably the best bet. take an opentop drum with a lit mounted to it and cut the top 1" off the drum. weld the ring to the hard top then remove the lid and cut out the hole in the roof. then pick from a variety of available drum lids. that way when you don't plan...

underdrive pulleys are really intended for engines that are pushing high rpm. the high rpm puts a much more excessive load on the components like the alternator and water pump. in the case of the water pump it can even cause cavitation which stops the coolant from flowing when it is most...

your picture threw me off till i read the description better about terminal post locations

easiest test would be to swap modules with a known good one and see if it still happens.

overheating flasher module could do it but I think it would work temporarily until it got too hot.

pm Powerhousedeuce, he is a little north of there. helped towbar my deuce off fort meade..

thanks for the tip - the variable ones are WAY too expensive (100$), but the high-low ones aren't bad. if I knew the resistance required i could just get a seperate switch for the on-off and a potentiometer for the speed control. should ony cost a couple dollars. EDIT--- I really am rusty...

that 2 tone looks sharp

still have to get those detailed photos. need a little wiring help though as I'm rusty on my electronics. The wiper motor functions from 24v down to 12volt. I'd like to put in a variable resister knob to slow down the wipers when it isn't raining real hard. do I need to know the draw of...

not trying to be a smart*** but if you can't drive it anywhere then what does it need an oil change for? If you can drive it around on the farm for a bit that should take care of it, if you really have to jack it up then I would use 6 jack stands - 2 under each axle.

almost exactly 30 days just make sure you request it in time.

reallllllyyyy old thread - PM him incase he has more if not you can find budd sockets on the net for a bit more than he was offering but still not crazy. example Budd Wheel Socket 1-1/2" x 13/16" x 3/4" Drive

you will want to loosent he bolts int he door jam without removing them. it give you a little more slop without having to fight to line them up again.

I'll add some more detailed photos tomorrow, but for now here is an overall shot. I scavenged the wiper shaft from two bad air motors, combined it with a single 24v wiper motor with auto-stop. after testing the connections in the wiper motor i was able to run external wires rather than the...