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My ribs hurt for a couple of weeks after doing mine..... (from leaning on that fender...)

There is not a lot that one guy CANT do... if you can change a flat, you can fix it. I've changed the motor by myself, getting the transmission back in was my hardest challenge, I just did my Hydraulic Head, and I've put a fuel pump in the tank, I've flipped my hubs and packed my bearings and...

Thanks Rusty and all you guys for tips and info...!!

I changed my HH... found the fuel shut off rod was NASTY brown and sticky.... (it had been in a can since 92'), found the button, 3 prong end and half of a retainer in the hole.. It really went very smooth. The HH coming out had the nicely painted tooth and i was able to get the wife to bump...

I know people say the deuce will run without an "in tank" pump. I am just wondering if that could be a contributing factor for the HH to fail? A lof of the "no start" post seem (to me), to include a faulty pump as well as the HH failure.

Good to know... thank you.

Will the fuel shut off rod still "spring back" from 5 to 7 if the button is off the bottom of the head...?

Thanks guys, not sure if i've been cross posting (maybe a little) for the same problem, but for different possible fixes...

I need to make sure its the HH and not the boost pump.... (searching my tail off..)

I'm having "no fuel issues"... had no fuel at the filters, wouldnt even dribble with the primary off (in tank pump was humming but not pumping). So i put the parker pump in, had good spray on primary drain and no bubbles at the secondaries (let it run good). But no start, cracked the injector...

This is an old post, but my center plunger screw must be torqued down to over 100ft lbs... I sprayed it with PB and hope it comes loose next try....

Well, I got the HH off my "donor motor", it came out pretty easy, it was all in one piece. (does the little button on the bottom always feel like its about to POP off...??) I also took the IP off, came out pretty easy also, while i was at it I got the air pump, water pump and oil cooler off...

I learned how to take off a HH, from my old motor.... I also pulled the IP, oil cooler and fuel rack, and water pump. I still have to pull the starter and alternator, and see if i can get it where i can pull the oil pump. (basically anything that bolts to the block..)

I do plan to pick the block clean... (mostly)

I understand the engine needs to rotate to get the HH out of the IP. My question is, if i have a motor (seized from a bad head gasket) that has an IP on it, I should be able to get the HH off it IF i remove the IP from the block (?) (to get the bowtie clip or other hard parts I could use). OK...

Yes, it was bled, no bubbles, good pressure....

Having a no start kind of week... after installing my muffler and flapper, and an in tank Parker pump, She just doesnt want to start. Tried some starting spray, pulled off the shut off cover and it looks new (the motor has 50 miles on it) the shut off rod moves in and out as it should with no...

Thanks Red... I'm really dreading this, as its a fresh depot rebuild with about 50 miles on it. I know we're getting off the topic of this post, sorry...

I dont have a gauge on it... but the new pump seems to be putting out a lot more than before.

Well... i have lots of pressure, squirts good at primary and secondary, let it run out the secondary, no bubbles... still no start. I've even cracked the injectors with no results, it would fire off briefly with starting fluid, but wouldnt stay lit. I am hoping that its not a HH, it was running...