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Wow, almost a month since my last post to this... Holidays, and I got hit with a case of Strep Throat. Yeah, happy new year to me... Well on a lighter note, I'm haggling with a guy who has my last two tents, and I'm going to try to get an HDT 103, and two rapid entry vestibules in the deal...

2nd the dome light. Also keep you reg+insurance in a simple transparent folio (I also keep a copy of my latest emissions test in there for CHP), when asked for license+registration+proof-of-insurance (standard cue), I state "It's in my glove box," and with one hand on the top of the steering...

I think they mean, the feed to that port is not sufficient to do anything high amperage, so you shouldn't run anything high amperage from it - if you're talking about re-wiring the feed to that 12-port, you might want the scrap more of the OEM electrical in the first place... I prefer tinned...

What he said with minor edit - fuse size depends on wire size. Fuse is ALWAYS to protect the downstream wire length. Wire size is determined by what you want to run off it AND how far away it is from the power supply. Every time there is a wire size reduction or a branch to multiple loads...

I don't like breakers for these circuits, breakers can fail shorted negating their purpose. Another quick search found this: http://www.delcity.net/store/MEGA-Fuses/p_800374.h_800375.t_1.r_IF1003 Average cost for a mega-fuse is $4.50. He could blow about 4x with his existing system before he...

Quick recommendation - idle you engine and feel the hole you cut, if air is getting blown out the front of your core support, you may be creating a path for hot radiator air to loop around the front of the radiator.

There's a reason the military killed the 939 series. AM General made the wining design but the government gave later production of that design to BMY-Harsco who did a really bad execution of design cost-reduction, kind of like Stewart&Stevenson with the LMTV drive-train design issues. Even ABS...

That reminds me of an anecdote... and another caution. About a year into dating my now wife, we were driving through a canyon at a few past midnight and came upon an accident. Single vehicle into a tree on the outside of a sharp downhill turn. Apparently the guy driving had JUST BOUGHT a new...

As a fuse replacement, I personnaly like the "Cyalume flare alternative". Not only do they last longer than the typical 15 or 30 minute flares, they are lit along their entire edge/surface. Other bonuses include: it doesn't leak like a flare when stored for a long time, doesn't set your state...

Those might be part of the problem. Optima's don't have a lot of reserve capacity or Amp hours to work with... I did a comparison a while back in another thread. Your average Red-Top Group 34/78 (normal for a "car" battery), only has about 100 minutes reserve capacity - so loads like...

Just keep an eye on your start voltages. if you have to crank more than once, wait 10-15 second between cranks to both: cool your starter down let your batteries recover on cold days this lets the hot/warm air from the compression cycle heat-soak the cylinders The second point is an...

The big detail here is that Line-X is a vapor barrier, whereas Dura-black is not. Even with heavy priming, Dura-black will let water vapor through the membrane, if this finds steel or iron you will get rust. Kind of like the various morons who only primer their cars so that they get the flat...

You should be able to get one rebuilt by any reputable starter/alternator shop. I know a replacement armature (rotating assembly) costs about $50-60, and brush kits are around $10. It you haven't totally destroyed the starter that came with the truck, don't toss it - have it rebuilt. For...

Should be able to find it at any Napa parts store. Check this thread.

I don't know if you know it, but the telephone is one of the simplest darn things you'll ever come across. If you're looking to do simple point-to-point comms, 3x to 8x (depending on distance) series 9-volt batteries, a resistor (OR even better, a current regulating diode), a power supply audio...

Some states allow auxiliary lights to be used with high beams, the beam pattern for this is basically a high-wattage bulb with reflector... (think "light shotgun"). With low beams, only a fog light pattern is allowed (sharp horizontal cut-off below other drivers' eyes). Not so amusingly...

They wouldn't even see you coming :) (might hear you, and see a dark thing wiz past them...)

The armor headlights do have high/low... In my application I'm tearing out the original guts to make it my own with 500Watt COB LEDs. What you're describing sounds like the headlight from an M60 tank (IR+White headlight, blackout drive light, and blackout marker):

Without knowing if it can be done to code, I'd say maybe look into a variable frequency drive (essentially an inverter)? Though again, I've not seen a 40HP version that does single phase...

Quick Google provided this: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?130403-MEP-805a-reconfigure-to-single-phase Before you get excited about the thread title the summary is "no". You might need to look into 3-phase to 1-phase converters (though I'll admit I've never heard of anyone doing...