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That was a good lift, didn't even scratch the paint! Have you load tested the set yet?

Guy, I looked all over the set and couldn't find anything with tier 2 or a reman tag, I did get a picture of the data plate from the set and engine...

Its probably mixed with road diesel, but wont hurt to put fresh in! And yes, my skidsteer lifts both 803 and 802 from the front.

That was it! measured much better this time. needs .04. Where can I get the shims, Kraft power?

You need to lift from the four corner rings on the skid. If its close, deflate the tires alittle to squeeze on out from under.

Its not stale diesel, It's off road dyed diesel, the best kind in my opinion 8)

Ok, I have found a few issues with the TM "Measure piston drop. Engine should then be rotated opposite normal crankshaft rotation (counterclockwise as viewed from fan end) to approximately 0.01 in. (0.2544 mm) drop beyond specified piston drop of .99 in. (2.519 mm). Then rotate in direction...

How long before it trips? This could be your am/vm switch, need to test it. Test all your burden resistors. You will unfortunately have to desolder them to get an accurate reading.

I guess as long as I rotate the valve alittle while against the piston, to make sure any carbon thats loose is off, It will work.

Ok, quick question, according to the TM, The pumps are timed using the intake valve/piston contact and a dial indicator to find a point where the piston is 2.519 mm before tdc on compression stroke. Now if one has an older, carbonated piston/valve tops (as I have), how is that measurement...

That explains alot! Yes the pumps are new to the set(not painted) And I suspected they doubled up on shims, but wasn't sure. The shims are clear plastic, not color coded, but are various thicknesses.

Ok, on one pump I have 5 shims and on the other pump I have no shims, Im going to assume I should at least have one shim on it. Im going to time the pumps to see what shims I need.

Got the harness repaired. At some point, every ground wire in this sucker got burnt, the easy to access grounds were replaced. Im betting thats why it has a new generator end. So I got it back together and started diagnosing why the front cylinder isn't firing, just knocking. Took the pump out...

Now's the time to stockpile it. The tanks pay for themselves the first fill up...

I have a 802 that has somehow burnt ground wires 100e (goes from starter ground to tb2 ground) and I believe 100g( goes from tb4 to control box ground) Luckily the insulation on the neighboring wires saved them. I originally thought that maybe they put 100e on starter Hot terminal, shorting...

The 803 gen head is only slightly smaller (stator is about an inch shorter) than a 25kw wanco genhead I have, with the 802 being a few inches shorter. I have another head that is 3 phase I will compare them to. Of course it would be nice to know the weight and insulation class for a full comparison.

It's hard for me to tell, my phone doesn't have real good audio. I appreciate you taking the time to record your test logs.

An egr exchanger from a diesel truck would make scavenging the exhaust heat easy. Something like this with a straight through design might not upset the engine to much...

When you had the 802 loaded to 8kw, how did the engine seem to handle it? And when do you believe the 803 engine began to struggle? You didnt happen to check the gen head heat did you?

Be a good time to clean the radiator.