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:ditto: While there are better methods, a high pressure steam cleaner is the best one that is within the budget of the average hobbyist. I've got an old Hotsy that will take 30 year old caked on grease off as easy as pie. It will also remove paint if you aren't careful.

That guy has some gall asking for a cancellation fee. You didn't cancel. I know people make mistakes but this one was no fault of your own. This is just more proof of the "it's not my fault, blame somebody else" society we now live in. I wouldn't give him a dime if I were you.

I don't get hung up on the high priced, big name fluids. The fact is, many of the brands come from the same place. I buy many NAPA branded fluids. I know their engine oils are Valvoline in a NAPA container for less price than the same Valvoline product. If you think about it, I know several...

Our local battery shop used to replace ends until their insurance company made them quit. It wasn't the risk of explosion that was the problem, it was breathing all those lead fumes during the casting process. I do prefer the screw post batteries also. They seem to have less corrosion and...

Stumps is right. Your trans oil can be too slick. I've heard of shift problems when people switched to synthetics.

Most trucks I've had apart from GL had chisel marks on the nuts so It must be pretty common in the military. I'll admit I've done it in a pinch. It's definitely not the best but really all it does is damage the outer part of the nut and will hold just as well as using a socket.

If I'm not mistaken, there is a tapered spring pad between the axle and the springs ( I could be thinking about something else). If that's the case and it's installed wrong, it could adversely affect the caster angle. I've heard tell of other deuce owners having a "squirrely" feeling when...

:ditto: Axle nuts can come in either 6 sided or 8 sided, even in the same size. That's why you'll find sockets that way. Any parts store that handles parts for larger trucks should be able to fix you up. I picked mine up at NAPA.

Porky is right. Do a search. It's been covered about every way possible. I know I have 2 separate conversion threads around here.

Actually,the dozer will move easier than a truck in current. The way the tracks are made the whole side of the machine is getting pounded by the water where a vehicle lets some pass underneath. Also a dozer doesn't have much traction sideways, especially on hard surface.

More than likely, you. That's what you get into with things like this. You go in and rescue a truck load of people from the flood, on your way out the truck is swept away in rushing water, and several people drown. You will have your pants sued off and the FD will claim they never knew you...

All I will add is the current doesn't have to be very strong at all to wash away a large truck. If the water was very deep and had any current I wouldn't try it. Water is very powerful when it's moving.

I don't know how they build trailers as cheap as they do. Awhile back I thought I'd build my own trailer to save some bucks and get what I want. After I priced the axles, hitch, wheels and tires I was already at the price you can buy a trailer for. I haven't even bought the steel yet or figured...

You can get a fairly high capacity singled out axle. My Dad's horse trailer has 9,000 lb singled out axles. He is running 17.5 load range H tires on it though. They are rated for 4,800 lbs each. You can find 8 lug 17.5 wheels if you want to upgrade to a heavier tire. The 17.5 tires are the same...

I told Adam I thought the bed weighed around 10K. This is based on the fact that I picked it up (barely, as Adam and Brandon can attest) with a lift rated for 14,000lb at 24" out. The bed center of gravity would be about 48" out on the forks so I wouldn't think it would lift much more than 10K...

First thing I'd do is check all the lines for leaks. You could have a pretty large one. The problem is that with a large leak you can never build enough pressure to hear it leaking sometimes.

Find your PT pump (injector pump). On the top of the pump there will be a solenoid with a wire attached to it. In front of the solenoid will be the manual shut off screw. It's a thumb screw but you can also use a stubby flat head screwdriver to turn it.

It could also be the the fuel shutoff on the PT pump. Also make sure somebody hasn't fooled with the shutoff override screw. It should be screwed all the way out for the electric shutoff to work. If you still have power on the wire going to the fuel shutoff with the switch in the off position...

A set price per mile is hard to nail down. Even the same shipper's price can vary wildly from load to load. Factors include if they have a backhaul, if they can haul something else on the same load, or how far they will have to deadhead to pick it up or deliver. Prices are more or less on a load...

That figure is a little low. Most authorities on the subject say 1200-1300 deg on the pyro pre-trubo as the max temp. From my experience, you can run 1100-1200 all day long and 1300 in short periods without harm.