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No access to elect.I do live in an apartment building and upstairs to boot.This is my third winter spraying when below -5,starts pretty good on glowplugs when above 0,like I stated I do have fuel and batt. issues.but no $,and I do have block heaters for it but not installed.Whats the point when...

I don't normally even start it when below -5,but its my only vehicle right now.I know I need new batts. and a new/rebuilt IP.But im laid off and have no extra $ right now.

When its -10 or below the only way I can get it to start is with a 2-3 second squirt of ether,my glow plugs are manual only.I spin motor till I see white smoke from tailpipes,then hit with ether for 2 seconds and it starts right up quickly.No GPs.Is this acceptable?

If the pump works fine with outlet line unhooked I would think all is good to that point,maybe check valve on return sticking? Really interesting problem.Hope someone with experience comments.Last summer my 1009 did something similar,I opened my fuel cap,whoosh ,sucked air into tank,then truck...

Is it still 24/12v? My best advice is use the search function top of page,you can type in cucv no start or hard start and learn tons or kilos of info !Sometimes Im in the archives for hours.Also pick up a multi meter and test light for electrical issues. Congrats and have fun.

Mine reads on the high side of the green,when I check volts on batts.when running they are 14.5 range.These gauges are old.

You really need to try this trick!It will help you determine if its your IP or something before it.

Its gotta be dark there by now,share up! Please.

Hind sight is 20/20,I still think about the numbers matching 69 Z-28 I passed on when I was 18,original paint too,I said no because it had spun a rod bearing..He wanted 1,800$..Who knew?

Figure on 8-12 months lifespan for that starter,Do yourself a favor and pick up a original one for a spare.I did.

After log in, upper right hand google custom search.You can find anything you are looking for.

I have fuel psi gauge into filter and 1 for after filter,they bounced around a bit like yours,was told small air bubbles was cause.They have since equaled out and read steady.

I think you are right,it got me thinking can we flip the drivers side exhaust manifold to face forward to simplfy the crossover,probably not,keep us posted.

Congrats on your purchase,I would deff.gasket match.Does this kit have crossover in front of motor?Please keep us posted on your build.

I would pick up a used wireing harness,then at least you would have a decent starting point,then if you still want 12v look into the rosscommon conversion.

my headlights and off road lights on separate circuit,12v port just running the normal,maybe I should run 4/0 gauge?

And yes,I was really embarrassed to write down their info,Im 50 ,but do like their wire.And battery terminals kbt 30n and kbt 30p

what size fuse would you use for power to 12v port?Using 1/0 ga. or 4ga.?Power to GP solenoid would be separate.

For power/ground cable I use kolossus fleks kable sold by knuconceptz.com Really nice stuff,I also bought a crimping tool so I can make my own cables.Great thread gonna look into the fuse idea,instead of fuseable links.

My local NAPA said they get them from same place,not many places making the brass/copper rads. any more.A little cheaper at A.Z.,finally received today.Will see if I can get old one rebuilt also.But Thankyou just the same. I paid a little over $325 and received a $75 gift card so not a bad...