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i think bearing wear will have more to do w/ the wheel offset than anything else. yes, there is massive power loss running 16's on the deuce. i have turned the fuel up on mine and the driveability has greatly improved. i think 16's on a stock deuce will work stiting still on flat ground...

a less expensive route is to just swap out your bulbs from somewhere like here; a lot of 12V stuff, but plenty of options in 24V to make it happen.

well, you can't just unplug and unbolt stuff - you have to do it right. the new 6.4 was going to be hack-proof: all the regional reps said that it was going to be impossible for the truck to run with the DPF and sensors removed. well, the fix for that is a simple re-flash away... folks are...

just because that is the case doesn't make it true. it's a rep, just like anything other rep, it's not founded on actual truth. you just have to compare apples/apples: since there was no d-max until the end of the 2nd gen 5.9, i'll have to agree that the 5.9 was probably a bit more reliable...

you'll find that you'll run out of length (eng + trans) real quick unless you relocate the transfer back about 2'. it shouldn't be a problem on a regular deuce, but would be a feat for a bob'd deuce. also, you'll have to stick the IC outside the front of the grill, as the DT466 is about as...

eh, 504 gals with a 265 mile range gets you about 1/2 mpg (880 yards ;-)). but that's moving almost 70 tons - you'd probably get remarkable mileage moving 13k lbs... regenerative heat turbines are very efficient. :grin:

possibly, thought the hub would have to be run out a good, what, 1 1/2"+ for the axle stub shaft to pull out from the drive flange on the outside of the hub.

'superdeuce, can you post (or send) the larger pic of your avatar? i like what you've done w/ the front of your deuce - i may want to mimic for functionality of fitting a bigger radiator/IC during a repower. got any more leads on parts used to make the front end swap?

thanks, gringle' for actually answering my question. so, from this exploded view, if it were a problem at the transfer, it could be: bent shift fork (14) missing/broken fork retaining pin (13) broken/worn collar (24) broken dogs (24 and/or 23) i would think these mechanical components are...

did i miss the disc brake info? who made the caliper hat that bolts onto the drum brake axle mounting flange? what caliper/rotors are you using? got the front designed yet?

i don't think so; there's some slop in my front shaft. to the others: what does the air actuator actually actuate (:roll:) ?? meaning, is there a shift fork that could get bent and prevent the front axle from fully engaging?

nh' - that's the same issue and conclusion i came up w/. i just didn't have the time to draw on the pic and repost. :roll: OP - i concur w/ nhdiesel; you need to beef the bottom of the plow frame for the longitudinal forces exerted by the plow. and, as already suggested, some X-bracing to...

yes - we need to punish him profusely by with-holding information!!! get Mr. No-Brakey-Brakerton!!!! LET HIM HAVE IT!!! er... i mean, DON'T LET HIM HAVE IT!!!!

um, without blatantly hijacking this thread too bad, i'm wondering if i have a similar problem? when driving, my headlights will flicker every so often, getting worse and worse until eventually (40+ minutes?) they will randomly go out for a few seconds altogether. i believe it is only the...

quick, Chuck, better get your fire-suit on!!! i see flames coming in 5, 4, 3 ...

i, too, have tried to talk him into using SS tube for the straight/longer runs... :wink: basically, when i redo mine, there will only be 4 braided / flex lines: 1 at each knuckle and 1 for each frame-axle drop down. i just think the tube is a lot more rugged. and, sometimes bending tube can...

no direct 'deuce-related' experience; but when the Goodyears became available in the Army inventory they were an improvement in ride and handling on the FMTVs / LMTVs. i would imagine there is a slite loss in offroad traction in very sticky mud/clay terrain due to the lower void ratio. [both...

i also heard a max of 1800psi from the airpak.

they are going to be medium duty, so they won't be ZF's. likely they are Clarks, maybe Spicers and could be Eaton/Fullers. usually when it's a 5 spd it's a Clark.

i think it would be one of the most 'bolt-in' repowers that you could do. the engines are about the same length and the front motor mount is just on a real simple cross member that could be slid forward/aft as needed. the rear mounts will be ears off of the engine adapter just like in the deuce...