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Maybe that's why I couldn't find the thread. :oops: I figured that you would know if anybody would though. ;-)

I bought a used PTO from them awhile back. When I got it I found out that the shift shaft was bent ( honest mistake and could have easily been overlooked). I called them and they were very sorry and asked me what to do to make it right. I knew shipping would cost a fortune to ship mine back and...

I've seen posted where to get these bearings before but I can't find it. Gringeltaube knows and I'm almost sure he's the one that posted the info on them. Best I remember he had the Timkin numbers and everything. You might want to try sending him a PM.

:ditto: Gimpy is right. If you fill the trans up to the fill plug you have too much oil in it. There is no seal on the trans input and it will sling oil out at speed if it's over full. Here's the way the batteries should be hooked up. Disregard the extra 12v in the diagram.

Yes, The trans PTO has a keyed shaft. I've seen a flange (like mine), a yoke, and a sprocket on a t-case PTO.

Here's two pump installs that I've done. The first pic the pump is driven off of the front output of the stock deuce PTO. The second and third pic the pump is driven off of a transfer case PTO.

The PTO you have more than likely won't work. The stock deuce PTO has a front output to drive the winch. They do have a rear output that can be added that will give you a rear output. I have used a stock PTO and munted the pump in front of the trans (beside the engine) so a rear output is not...

Yea, what's really fun is doing it two or three times trying to get the correct number of gaskets between the PTO and the trans. :x

I'd rather cut the springs loose from the frame and add the blocks there. Welded in good and braced where needed of course.

I've put several PTOs on with the trans in the truck. It is tight. What's impossible to do is check the gear mesh as shown in the TM with the trans in the truck. I just do it by feel because there's no way to get a dial indicator between the PTO and the truck frame.

Wait until you go to take a fender off and the captured nuts won't hold where the fender attaches to the cab. You've got to cut a hole into the cab tubing to access the nuts to hold them. Replacing the defroster duct isn't any fun either.

Great story. I don't know how good of friends you have though. They run off and left you. If you would have had some sort of trouble you would have been SOL. About the brakes- He said he had no brakes but he pushed them harder and slid all 10 tires. I'm thinking maybe his airpack wasn't...

:ditto: I have switched to CO-OP 15w40 though. It has the same specs and is quite a bit cheaper around here.

I had a guy tell me that you could get them at most trailer parts places (the ones that sell parts for semi-trailers) but I don't know firsthand. I bet a quick google search would come up with some clips that would work. Flat bar or anything like that doesn't work very well. The flat bar will...

Hmmm. Looks like a moonshine still to me. When you say "WMO" are you talking about Wreckerman's malt olixer?

Seems like I remember your trailer didn't have a floor in it when you got it. If so, did you happen to get the clamps that hold the wood down?

I've had a sf97 request submited for about 3 weeks now. I gave them the frame number and they haven't called me yet.

Sounds like you may have more pressing problems than getting your truck home. :shock: :deadhorse:

:ditto: With fuel cost getting close to $4 a gallon, trucking is getting expensive.

I assume that is board foot (not running foot). There are two board feet in a foot long piece of 2X12.