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Can you tell us where your + and - battery cables are attached? In the picture I can't see but it almost looks like the black cable is going up towards the starter solenoid and I can't see where the red wire is headed at all. The + should go up to the solenoid on the starter and the - should go...

So on the subject of air cooled Governor adjustments I have some interesting facts I just learned the hard way... I was working on an 002a a few days ago, prepping it for sale and noticed the droop was beyond acceptable limits. It would droop about 1.5 Hz for every 1Kw of load applied. I lowered...

Your temp sensor is screwed into the engine block under the air louvers below the muffler. The harness you showed earlier dangling down should plug into the connector on the side of the air louver housing. That plug has 2 short wires inside the air louver that connect to you temp switch. Before...

Agreed that reversing a battery would not create a complete parallel circuit, but would it really cause a fire or even a short? Wouldn't there simply be no current flow because there is no connection between the negative of either battery and the machine? Only the 2 positives are connected to...

Correct... Just because your DMM shows 13V ( really it's probably 12.5 or so ) doesn't mean your battery is any good. You need to load test the batteries. You may have 1 battery with only a surface charge and no amperage behind it. Other than that if you are correctly hooked in Series there's no...

Assuming that all your wiring is in tact, the oil and temp switches are the first thing that come to mind that would shut it off, but sounds like you have already checked both. Might need to confirm the wiring is correct and no loose connections. You only need 1 primary fuel pump for it to run...

They are pretty easy to rebuild. The one that is not building pressure probably has a stuck check ball in it. Take the bottom cap off and remove the strainer, then you will see the wire clip that holds everything together. There is a plastic check ball on both ends, if either is stuck the pump...

All above is correct and good info, one last anomaly I saw, if the Injectors don't fix the issue, was a machine with an incorrect timing button ( too thin ) that was causing an 003 to smoke from just 1 cyl. I rebuilt the IP, the injectors , checked compression, lapped valves, changed head...

It's probably all a matter of opinion, but there have been several threads talking about this subject. Some people have found issues where things were reassembled incorrectly, not tightened properly or wires routed incorrectly that rubbed or chaffed on a corner and eventually shorted out...

So out of curiosity, was the hard line plugged near the Banjo fitting and no fuel is passing to the metering pumps? Or are you saying the tube is clogged near the far end and the fuel can not reach the bypass that goes up to the injector returns? If you are only talking about the bypass to the...

Good work getting that 5k through that shed door! By the looks of the picture I thought you would have needed 50 gallons of Wiley Cyote's ACME grease and 4' shoe horn to get it out of there, but looks like you did it safely and damage-free!

So the moral of the story here is apparently that we should check fuel flow right at the metering pump inlets.... checking at the Banjo bolt is apparently not enough!

Nice score Chris! looks great. After we talked during our "simultaneous generator recovery trips" I knew you had the top bows, but I see you have what appears to be a brand new canvass as well, definitely a nice addition. Once prepped and running they should make a couple real nice units, 003's...

For the 4 cyl. the kit is 657-34281 or search for LPW4 or DN4M gasket kit, for $77 For a 2 cyl. ( different head gasket and side cover gasket ) you just have to search for DN2M or LPW2 gasket kit. it's $150 now.

Agree with Chainbreaker. Absolutely do not pay $2300 for an unknown machine and by no means attempt to just start it yourself on-site. There are plenty of fully tested machines that are done and ready to go with way less hours for less money! All done and tested and serviced that sounds like a...

Well.... normally I would have been all over this as Guy said, but Christmas Chaos has kept me away from the computer for a few days! I got the PM from Darlene and we have begun to diagnose the IP off-line. We'll share the findings for everyone as we get through it. So far it sounds like at...

Ok, so lets start by checking for 24+ going to the panel. Power comes from the post on the back of the starter solenoid then goes to the MT4 charging shunt. It then goes through the CR1 Diode and then to the dead crank switch. From the dead crank normal position power goes to the E-stop switch...

Here's a few quick things to check: If you are confident that the batteries are connected correctly and all 4 connections are good. Flip on the panel lights. Do they work? If not, verify your dead crank switch is in the normal position. Verify the circuit breaker inside the control box above...

Round plate and gasket.... Interesting. I don't think I've ever seen round ones, thought they were all square ones ( with radiused corners ) On every one I've ever had apart. Guess it really makes no difference.

Interesting, I'll be waiting to hear how that stuff works! If possible, post up a few pictures of how you do it. Last resort, I rebuild the injectors and pumps if you need anything done. Shoot me a PM if you end up needing anything.