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Do you mean its making power but the HZ gage is dead, or are you no longer producing power at all ?? Most common problem by far with the HZ gage failing is the frequency transducer mounted on the back inside the control cubicle. They fail at the drop of a hat! You can test it by hooking a...

Verify the starter wiring is correct, then you could try putting a volt meter on the little "S" wire on the solenoid and see what happens when you let go of the start switch. If there is no voltage there with the switch release then most likely the solenoid on the starter is sticking on. If you...

I recently read about that Miracle paint, seemed like a good product for cheap. I was thinking of using it on a box truck I was doing. I ended up using the "cheaper" Miracle, not the implement paint with the hardener. It didn't work well at all. For the sake of saving $30 it was a mistake. I've...

No matter how you view the TM's it still winds up being helpful to have either a printed copy available or at least the pages associated with whichever aspect of the machine you happen to be working on at the time. Maybe print up a couple copies and stick it in a binder so it doesn't get jumbled...

Instead of paying $598 for 2 bolts you could spend a couple bucks more at GL and get yourself a set of used bolts with a spare generator attached to them!! And here I thought $480 for a frequency transducer was insane :shock:

Yea, maybe I should look into that. I remember waiting and waiting and waiting to get fuel out of the top vent hole of the first unit I ever worked on. After that I just prefilled them all.

2 1/2' isn't too high but if anyone goes much higher (4' or more) and you do 4x4's upright with 2x6's on top you should probably also do chris crossed 2x4's on the legs, screwed and/or notched together where they overlap to stiffen the legs. Otherwise the vibration might eventually cause the...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?111171-MEP-002A-are-all-Control-cubicles-interchangeable&highlight= I had the same problem with one of my -002a's. It would make power as long as you manually flashed the field, as soon as you let go of the start switch the power would die. At first...

I'm not sure if any fuel will flow through the return line if the unit isn't running, I thought the IP had to be going in order to get fuel through the return? I'd just prefill the canisters and loosen the line near the IP infeed , like 1800 said and let the primary pumps run. If you leave the...

Chris, If you're having difficulty getting your 10/4 SOOW to stay securely in the lugs a simple fix might just be to just strip the end twice as long, fold the copper back over itself and twist it together to make it twice as thick. If you really want to go all out, tin the end with solder...

Looks Good! Now the power will probably never go out in NY again! One question I have for Chris or anyone else that has any experience running these for extended time periods sitting on crushed stone, do they try to walk around or dig themselves into the stone much? I was going to put mine on a...

Agreed as far as POR15 and Chassis saver. Way too expensive for a product who's performance is sketchy at best. I also found out (too late ) that neither of those 2 products can be used on clean metal. They will only bond to rusted metal ( and your skin ) but they will also let the rust return...

Don't leave all that new metal and metalwork bare on the inside. I'd paint or epoxy the inside of the fenders, especially the wheel well lip and bottom near the door/rocker then spray it all with the Corrosion preventer. also thoroughly spray inside your new rockers and cab corners, especially...

The Omni epoxy primer should do a good job saving this paint job. I've used POR15 and all sorts of other crap and had rust return within 1 winter here in N.E. My best results so far have been to sandblast then 2 coats of PPG DP90LF (no reducer) then 3 heavy coats of Rust Shield paint with the...

Good idea. If the disc is reversible then go ahead and flip it over. Unfortunately the TM and service manuals I have don't show an exploded view of the solenoid, only the starter motor. If you bring the disc to work and polish it make sure to ask if it prefers mint or cherry polish before...

I've had perfect results sanding the rings with a piece of 180 grit paper on a flat piece of steel. Like Massey said, bead blasting or wire brushing in addition to sanding would clean in the pits better. Its worked for me in 100% of the cases I've worked on and saved more than 1 $400 starter for...

I use 15W-40HD oil in all my diesels. Personally I usually use Rotella, Castrol or Delvac but pretty sure all 15W-40 weights are formulated especially for diesel engines. If you live in a very cold climate you might want to see about a lighter viscosity oil. Apparently there's a "Lubrication...

I don't have any first hand experience with an 802a, just 002's but from what I've read on this forum I'd be more inclined to stick with the 002 due to its simplicity and being air cooled. Either buy or build yourself an enclosure. If you're into it, buy yourself another 002 with an enclosure on...

Now that it's out you may as well go ahead and try hitting it with jumper cables and see if it spins or not. Ground to the starter body and touch the positive to the fat wire going into the body of the motor itself (not the one where the battery was attached to the solenoid) If it spins you know...

Sounds like a dirty contact ring in the starter solenoid. If the bendix (arm) moves when energized but the starter doesn't spin I'd suspect the copper ring that closes the connection to the starter motor might be dirty or pitted from arching. stick a screwdriver across the 2 large battery...