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A couple things that come to mind are: As mentioned before, gasoline shelf life is not the greatest, but if you really want the capacity in the event of an outage... You don't need anything bigger than 1/4" fuel line and shut off. You'll need to vent the drum when in use. When not in use, if the...

Kevin, You can also get it from www.Petrodirect.com PN 5200KTF1828 For $52.70 Grainger has it too, but of course it's almost double the price @ $92.00 And yes, Tuthill and Fill Rite are actually the same company.

You should be fine. 1 year is nothing for diesel. Bacteria growth is much more common in marine applications and other high moisture situations. Most likely you won't have anything to worry about.

To get the old tap out, they make a 2 prong extractor that fits into the space between the flutes of the broken tap and lets you unscrew it. Maybe you could fabricate something similar out of an old socket with a couple pins welded to it, or cut away the socket and leave 2 or 4 small pegs...

Nice find, brings back memories.... As a kid my father had a couple of these. During the blizzard of 78' we lost power for 2 weeks and we had one running with extension cords strung out like spaghetti, powering several neighbor's refrigerators and a few lights... not bad for a little 1 cyl. gas...

I wouldn't think your units would already have been bored out. I have zero experience with how the military maintains their equipment, but I would think boring the block would be beyond the limit that they would go before setting it aside for auction, especially a generator that new. Only way to...

Very generous offer indeed. My hat ( if I wore one) would be off to you, great to see people helping each other out just for the **** of it. Now go lock you door, once the word gets out they'll be knocking your door down! Congrats on the truck!

I wouldn't suggest wasting money on a HF welder. Sure it might be an economical way to get started, but I think you'll quickly find yourself wanting to upgrade to something a little bigger and better, even if the next step isn't the top of the line. I started with a 110V Lincoln for portability...

When you first mentioned using Evaporust and a cyl. hone for the 2007 I thought you were crazy. I would have anticipated it needing to be bored and sleeved with all that rust! I've never used Evaporust but looking at the pictures I can't believe the transformation. Apparently it really is...

Yes, Sort of... One of the manuals has a drawing of the actual regulator board I was trying to post, to show the location (green rectangular pot with a screw in the end located near the bottom center of the regulator board.) It is R15 in the schematic you posted. I need to practice posting...

I've been trying to upload the page out of the TM that shows the potentiometer I was talking about, but no luck so far. I think it's something with the firewall we have here at work. Either that or I'm just doing something wrong.... It was R15 or item#8 in the picture on pg 30 in the Unit Direct...

Tom, sounds like you are actually ok on the AC side. 120V with the knob up 3/4 of the way is perfectly fine. I wouldn't even bother looking much further into it. Maybe just try the 240v setting and see if you have around 240V between L1 and L3 on the buzz bar using your multi meter. Also see...

Tom, once you verify the actual AC voltage you are getting, if it is low even with the adj. knob cranked all the way up, I think you can adjust it further using the variable resistor (R12 or R17 depending on which regulator you have) on the voltage regulator board. Try looking through the TM...

I'm sure many of you have read lots of threads about machines with the output voltage going high:deadhorse:, but this one might have a little different spin to it. When I first got this machine I noticed an intermittent high voltage problem. After inspecting the VR board visually I noticed that...

You could probably winch it up with a chain fall or come-a-long. Would be easiest if you could get some pipes or something under if for rollers. I've loaded and unloaded skid mounted MEP-004's from a deck-over trailer this way before. Wasn't too bad.

The motor itself will run just fine, the problem will be with the side load on the crank bearings. The bearings aren't really designed for much of a side load, so excessive pressure on the crank will probably lead to premature failure of the main bearings. You might be better off with a setup...

Ok, so here's the latest. I purchased a couple of the TI tachometer chips that PeterD suggested. I got one hooked up on a bench and got it to drive the HZ gage from an MEP-002A running in essence off utility power using an AC and a DC power adapter. Now the next step is to build a circuit to...

Latest update.... I'm abandoning the circuit I was playing with and have ordered a few of the LM2917 chips. The other circuit will drive the meter at 60Hz but is not giving me any movement on the needle as the frequency changes, no matter what I use for resistors and potentiometers. The only...

Peter, thank you for the info, I'll take a look those IC's today. Meanwhile, I tried the other circuit on the generator Friday night but found (as I suspected ) that a 4 Hz change at the generator only registered as about 1 Hz change on the meter (the circuit showed a 100uA meter instead of our...

So, the other day I hollowed out one of my dead transducer bodies ( found a bunch of stuff buried inside the potting material ) looks like it had not only a circuit board, but also a transformer or coil and a pair of caps about the diameter of a AA battery down the bottom. I made another board...