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A air shifter would be super simple. I'd do it myself but I have too many irons in the fire at the moment. All you need is to pick up a big truck high/low air shifter at any NAPA. See what the range of movement is in the t-case shift rod from high to low. Go on ebay and buy and air cylinder...

WM, Why not go with an air cylinder? That way you could add a high/low switch on the stick just like the big rigs. Should be as simple as attaching a air cylinder directly to the shift rod and running air lines to your switch on the shifter. :idea: Now you've got me to thinking. I may try this...

I'd just save my money and get a name brand setup when you can. You might want to go ahead and pull the probe. There have been reports of cheap probes breaking off and getting eaten by the turbo.

Why would you bondo over duraglass? You can get duraglass more than smooth enough for CARC paint.

Those readings are way off. It should idle around 300deg or so and going down the road under light load it should be running around 600deg or so. The engine temp will have no affect on the pyro reading. It should come up fast when you "gas on it" and fall off just as quick when you let out of...

If that's the case you're going to have to get a title in your name and then sign it over to him to make things right. As I said above, that's what I have to do in TN and consider it in the cost of doing business. The most I've ever sold is 4 in one year so I can get by without being a...

I bought a truck one time that had a bullet hole in one of the rims. Is that considered a combat rim? :)

What he's telling you is correct. TN will not accept a sf97 in someone elses name. Sometimes they even try and give you trouble when the sf97 IS in your name. Whenever I sell a truck I have to get a title in my name and buy tags for the truck before I can sell it because I'm not a licensed...

My brother has a m1008 with some roof rust issues. We used some stuff called Dura Glass (recommended by a body man) and it's holding up great so far.

All M35A2 trucks came with 9.00X20 tires. Early and late. I say again, All M35A2 trucks came with 9.00X20 tires with split ring wheels.

I wouldn't take it apart to paint if I were you. You can sandblast and paint it with it all together. They are a pain to deal with.

If you can set the winch in place by hand you're a bigger man than I am. I lifted one onto the back of a pickup truck one time and it almost killed me. I won't try that again. BofT, Tractor Supply is the best place around here to get bolts. The only down side is they only have the standard...

I've got a complete panel if you need one. If you can get it hauled for $300 I'd go that route. Money well spent IMO because you have no idea what's wrong with the truck and You really don't want to find out on the side of the road.

I believe his name was Mr. Jangles. :wink: I had bad mice problems a few years ago. I tried everything to get rid of them and could knock them down for awhile but then they would come back in force. I'm not a big fan of cats but my neighbor had a cat that had kittens and he was trying to...

Interesting. I wonder if the 250hp number was a test for a short period or a real world operating test. I know you can get some crazy hp out of any engine for a short period (drag cars and pulling trucks/tractors) but they wouldn't make it to the store without blowing up in real world dirving...

:ditto: I've seen a few unwelded, several halves welded together, and even a couple of quartered ones welded back together. At first the government surplused them out intact. Then they were allowed to be cut in half, thinking there would be no way somebody would weld them back together...

I'll bet they still relist them. You won't know it though because they will be in those big piles of scrap you see on the GL lot. Win a few of the scrap contracts from that area and you may get lucky. Don't know what you'd do with a crushed and or shredded M151 though.

:ditto: There was a GL rep on here awhile back but she couldn't take the heat and left. To be fair it wasn't her fault. GL assigned her to answer questions on SS but she had no authority to solve problems. People had problems and asked her to help them and her response was always "you need to...

I'm at 45 business days since end of auction with no paid-in-full as of yet. This is far from my first EUC. My first one didn't take this long. I'm betting mine will get cancelled also. I guessing either someone at GL posted it as "sent to BC" and didn't send it or they sent it to BC and BC lost...

When you say "rear drive hub" are you talking about the axle flange? If so silicone will work fine there. I can get you a air pack and/or a rebuild kit but don't have either in stock at the moment. I also have a good used one if you are interested.