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K15 has a diode that initially looks out is place but it's shown on the TM. It goes to K12 and checks out .480 volt on my dvom. After all that, still only 11v at the fuse when S1 is held on start

Wire 190 goes from S1 to K15 relay. I swapped the relays around but still no voltage at the fuse. The fuse wire is 141. It also goes to K15 and also goes to TB8 (in pic) which then 141 turns into a large diameter wire and goes directly to the generator.

I do get 24vdc on pin 7 when S1 is held in start. Also, with the battle short switch off, I get 11v at the fuse when holding S1 in start. With battle short on, I get no voltage at the fuse

I'm only getting 1.2vac on both sides of the fuse. I double checked the mag pickup. It reads 800omhs and 2.5vac while using the dead crank switch

The fuse in post #4 ohms out as good. I did not start the generator but with S1 in the run position there is no voltage at the fuse.

These are the only two fuses I know of. Pic 2 is hard to see but it has an exposed fuse element

I finally got this generator running after replacing S1 but it has no output voltage other that the 6v exciter. No fault lights, and same results when the battle switch is on. Here is a link to a crappy video https://youtu.be/UzrAwGMIK1s

Artisan, that's good to know. Ray's recently retired and the guy they referred me to seems like a flake

I got tired of not hearing anything and called the DLA direct. They were very helpful and researched my delay and called me back within a few hours. Turns out GP isnt exactly telling the truth when it comes up dates. Their # is 877-352-2255 and get the disposition services dept.

Update. Thanks to Guyfang helping out a different SS member on his generator, I found that when S1 is in the run position, terminal 3 isn't getting voltage. I jumped 24v to the terminal 3 wire coming off S1 and the engine started and ran in its own. Terminal 3 does get 24v while I the start...

I cant even get a SF97. Bought and paid on 12/3/15 and "its in the mail" from what I'm told.

San Dimas, Ca. I've got a m35a3

Still the same thing. the engine will only stay running if the main switch is held in the start position. It runs great but once I let off switch the engine shuts off. The mag pickup has 750 ohms and I have adjusted AC voltage when using the dead crank switch to 2.7vac. This is with the battle...

Frustrated. I can only work on it during the weekend but I am out of ideas. I ordered a new Woodward governor and I am going to install it this weekend. My old HS auto shop teacher always said "Be a mechanic and not a parts changer" because so many guys would just guess at what was wrong instead...

Just bought this truck and I love it so far. I had searched and read this forum for all these answers but couldn't come up with them. 1. I know these aren’t race cars but my truck is ungodly slow and I don’t think it would make it up a 6% grade. Has anyone turned up the injector fuel rack...

Mine had several pin hole leaks in them too. I used to have a couple race cars so I had a bunch of -6 braided hose laying around. I replaced all the hose at the same time. I reused all the old fittings as they are barbed

I do have the TM's and page 2-64 and on look like a good place to start. Both freq and volt pots are in spec. I still think the mag pickup is the problem but finding an exact replacement is difficult.

Ok I ran the unit today for about 5 min while holding the main switch in the start position. No idiot light with or with out the battle stich on. I tried closing and opening the contactor several times but only have about 25vac. Adjusting the freq knob does raise and lower the rpm slightly...