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Good place to start...many people with good intentions fall victim to fires, burnt wired, toasted starters, etc. I would open all the lines and crank in 10 second intervals for quite some time. A good tip...remove all GPs so the engine spins over faster. Much easier on starting system. Be sure...

That would definately be plausible. Regardless of the hubs position, if the front diff is seized and you are in 4wd nothing is going to move. That is more likely with what you found than the tcase being so far out of adjustement and going into Neutral.

Do a starter relay fix before you learn the hard way while priming the system. If the truck was running recent, chances are the injector lines are still primed. Do not attempt to start with the IP wire connected unless you are pretty positive the system is bled out. This will save you lots of...

Sounds like that... Are your shifts firm under normal driving? Mine shifts butter smooth unless you are to the floor. Just thinking possible vaccuum bleed (not completely gone yet) or a misadjusted valve on the IP causing compiling problems.

Any chance the linkage is improperly adjusted and the tcase is going into neutral? 2wd to 4wd simply engages the front output, rear output always remains connected.

Sounds like the IP is failing or you have a fuel leak and the system is bleeding down. You only have to touch the throttle if it is cold out. Check the sunvisor for the half and full position temperatures. I'm sure it is also in the TM. I go about half when it is around freezing and full when...

I just drove my Aunt's new Acura SUV with LED lamps, everyone kept flashing me like I had my hi beams on. At some point these things are just out of control bright for other drivers. Be nice to opposing traffic :)

I think an M1101 (or M101A3?) with the M1031 bed or even just the enclosed HMMWV trailer top with the PTO genset would be total BA. Could run the PTO shaft to the back bumper with a jackshaft into the trailer. Probably more cool factor than anything but who cares...I like different. I would...

Not sure but I would never run one as a house backup for extended periods of time. Just too darn noisy. I have a 2000 watt Honda inverter which whispers and sips fuel. It runs lights, fridge, TV, oil furnace, etc. just fine without strain for hours on end. I don't even hear it run outside. I...

I did some mods to my governor system...involved a lot of maintenance, switch cleaning/adjusting, and some better wiring with a blade fuse. I would eventually like to do the digital controller from B4thundr. I had mine on a scope once when I rewired it to 120/240 just to make sure I did it...

Good info, thanks! Mine had 6 on it and worked right out of the box after sitting for 3 years. Now the governor system...whole other story :)

I've never had to do field flashing (try to run mine up often to avoid this) but do you have to turn the drill a certain direction or is it just about generating current to get the excitor field going?

Its tough to figure out what "acts like a limited slip" really describes. Is it both tires spinning exactly the same speed or both spin but one more aggresively. I don't believe the 14 bolt ever had a gear driven or clutch type limited slip. Only a Detroit or Gov-Lok as far as I'm aware. Both...

The head I got was 3/8" NPT fittings. I do not have the part number but you can get them at any Stanadyne dealer, Napa sells a generic version (same exact head/filters/accessories), or from dieselstore.com like I did. Here is a great .pdf breakdown of the FM series filters...

Don't know but unless you have a ton of time, fab skills, etc. you probably would be better off finding what you need and keeping the M1031 the way it is. They tend to lose valuable or become less desirable once they have been pulled apart. I wanted to hack up my M1031 when I first got it, glad...

Sometimes you want to recover as much fluid as possible because it doesn't need to be changed yet and/or because it is expensive. The MityVac wins here, they are awesome. Seriously, not every place you do repairs likes having antifreeze spill everywhere. I have to do oil changes in the parking...

Nice! The only reason I bought my 24v MileMarker was to be swappable in the front and rear receiver hitches. I would have gone with an M8000 but Warn's 24v winches are tough to find in the US and cost a lot more money. I've had nothing but good luck with M8000's. I think you will be happy...

I like it, cop cars should have calibrated speedometers but not the millions of vehicles sold on the road. Yep...makes sense to me...

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I would like to see a car with an accurate speedo. I think mine is a mechanical issue as it reads steady till about 45mph, then it tends to hop back and forth about 10mph worth on the top end of cruise speed. I've had complaints as a tech that brand new vehicles are off by 10mph verified...