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Yes, it makes a difference.

Some generic stick on foam seal would probably work just fine(hardware store).

The prices sound very reasonable.

You have no points. I think your the one that is soft skinned. Keep it off the forums.

Ask about reading/writing comprehension and the site rules.

10 amps or less, your simply closing the relay coil circuit.

Are you still looking for an engine? You still have an active wanted ad.

Start by clicking on your user name(in the who's on line list on the main page). Then click on either, forum threads or forum posts, to find your own posts. Or, you can do an advanced search for posts by yourself. Now, think how helpful those hints would be to you, if I just started a new...

I'm wondering if it was originally silver soldered.

Removal should be in the -20 TM

Would have been nice if you just posted this update on a past thread that dealt with the issue.

The Proper priming procedure is in the -20 TM.

http://www.parttarget.com/5360-00-941-8684_5360009418684_10938295.html/-1772A323-FC51-44C9-BD4E-6379196E8791 $5 item on ebay. Many MV parts places have them as well.

What's the NSN#?

And with that part number and a Google search, the answer is.... http://www.parttarget.com/6680-01-160-5276_6680011605276_15618398.html 1.30

I was not referring to your post.

Several of my trucks have had the air pack leak internally and never did it cause all 6 brakes to drag(just one or two). Pull your plug and stick your finger in and see if air pressure builds. This will take about 1-2 minutes and requires a single wrench.

Front wheel bearings could be an issue. If the truck is new to you, a full wheel bearing and brake inspection and service/adjustment is the best way to eliminate those as the source(and have first hand knowledge of the condition of those systems.

Loosen the booster J pipe and see if they still drag. If they do not, then the booster is leaking internally. If it has the old style booster, then you can just remove the lube plug and stick your finger in it and see if air pressure builds(it should not) while the truck is running and air...

Fluids drained, SOP at many locations(for disposal). Leave the absorbent pad in the pan, lazy(easier than proper disposal) or just protection to keep oil that falls over time, absorbed. Fact is, you'll never know for sure. Your thread title only gave 2 choices, I don't think it was sabotage.