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I am fixing my generator setup on the M1031. My truck came with no linkage between the actuator motor and the little heim joint that attaches to the IP throttle assembly. I fabbed up a temporary rod to see if the system works. It works well but I noticed that the throttle pedal is no...

Rebuild them yourself, it is a piece of cake. I have said it before, unless the PO has shown proof of the alternators being done or you have done it yourself...they should be rebuilt for piece of mind. If you can't afford the $100 which covers both alternators, you can't afford a CUCV or any...

Not only are front lift blocks illegal in pretty much every state but are incredibly dangerous. Blocks out back are generally a bad idea past 2-4" depending on the leafs, power, tires, etc. They still cause damage like wrap and turning the leafs into a W shape. Not a good move. I would not ride...

If you haven't reman'd the alternators yourself and the previous owner didn't show proof, do both with complete kits for piece of mind. Time and money well spent!

This world sucks...I hope whoever would do such a thing gets a non-treatable STD or at minimum is ugly.

Pretty common on diesel OTR and other trucks that are relied on to make money and cannot afford to be taken out of service. At minimum, cutting the filter open to see what is in there is good practice once and a while. This is part of a normal oil change on aircraft because engine failure...

Anything past disabling the IP or glow plug system is a waste of time. Both of those will keep a CUCV from starting. When all else fails, anyone trying to get my M1031 will get a 9mm or 12ga right in the back...or maybe the face. Did I mention how much I like my military vehicle :) Seriously...

Won't the combi valve reset if you jab the brakes really hard a few times? Unless you can manually reset the plunger, I think high brake fluid pressures causes it to reset after a line repair. Could be wrong...

Another good point is the alignment. Yes, you can align a straight axle rig with a tape measure. I have done it. When you are chasing down death wobble, it is money well spent to have it put up on a rack and get some numbers printed off. This way you can see what everything is doing. Most rigs...

Correct me if I am wrong here but a 4L80E swap requires a tailhousing change for the NP205 to work but also a complete standalone ECM with matching sensors for it to work. Unless you go with a setup that has no automatic setting, you shift it with buttons. The 6.2 does not have a proper TPS...

Absolutely, if trying to work with measurements metric is easier. It may have been bean counters that are pushing to use whatever is cheapest. It just makes absolutelynno sense to use a combination of fasteners on anything. Seems rather hack to me...

Priceless quote! I'm sure it felt good at the time...:doghead:

I saw one of these in a student's truck. The build quality is fair...good enough where I would probably buy one. Just don't expect it to be the greatest thing when you open the package. The installation was terrible. It looks like it was installed with self tapping sheetmetal screws. Not sure...

I've done numerous solid axle swaps on Toyotas and currently have an IFS stock 4Runner. All of them I've run from 31's on stock wheels to 37's on 2.5" backspaced wheels. Not once have I gotten death wobble from a bad stabilizer. My truck right now has a blown out stabilizer and doesn't get death...

I have to say that in a standard automotive application, SAE or metric has no clear advantage. I have to agree, **** Chevy for using both. Only stupid engineers would do that requiring double the number of tools, fasteners, and thread repair equipment. Not to sound biased but that is why I...

I am going to install the Stanadyne FM100 hopefully this weekend. I will post up the results. It looks like a decent unit for the price. I helped my buddy put a Racor on his sailboat and was not impressed with all the leaks out of the box (not to mention not being able to remove the factory...

That is a great price for all of that. I just paid $500 after exchanging my core for a reman'd updated pump (IIRC, it is a 2829-4454). I also picked up a 6" 2 micron Stanadyne FM100 filter with a 24v heating element for another $150 from the DieselStore.com

Unless you are hard up for cash or have absolutely no time for hobbies, keep it. The CUCV's are great rigs, easy to work on, cheap to maintain, and a great platform to learn how the tinker. There is so much information and support on this sight, you shouldn't have any worries getting yourself...

Perfect scenario where a basic sign on the back vehicle would solve everything like "DO NOT INTERRUPT CONVOY"

Be sure to post up your AC build!!!