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The Defenders and Series rigs are truly one of the best designs ever that can be dismantled, shipped to a 3rd world country, and rebuilt numerous times over decades. They just keep going and going. Would it hurt Lucas or Bosch to put a decent zinc or gold plated connector on something:cookoo...

AAAAAAHHHHHHH!!!!!!!! I work on Land Rover/Range Rover in the summer time. My day consists of rot repair and electrical diag...that's it:drool:

This sounds like it was painful to figure out. Glad I just read it:-)

I'm just stating that spending an extra $1500 on one that is in better shape will net you much more than one that is $1500 cheaper. If you buy the cheaper one and spend a bunch of money fixing costly items, you still have a clapped out truck with some new parts. Unless you are into doing the...

Beautiful rig!!! Two questions What is the bracket on the dash pad where the left passenger A/C vent would be? Is that a standard CUCV part or something custom? I am asking because I have a tablet computer for GPS that would stick with some double sided 3M sticky tape nicely to that. Where...

Searching is your friend. The dummy lights have dummy sending units which are not compatible with gauges. You will need to source the correct sending unit for your gauge. If you are going to run mechanical gauges, just start off with that because they are cheaper and come with the sending...

Good luck with your CUCV search, once you get it running decent you will enjoy every minute of it. Whatever your budget is, plan on spending 50% more. Find something that is in pretty good shape compaired to a fixer upper. It is money well spent. Dashpads and seat covers are easy and cheap to...

Everything on my truck is installed correctly. My draglink is bottomed out so I may end up shaving a 1/4" off each draglink end so I can further adjustments. Thanks for all the input on the steering shaft parts. Saved me a bunch of time taking it apart for no reason:beer:

SouthernSteel and ODdave are confusing me:-( It can be reclocked but yet only goes on in one postion....aaaaaahhhhhhh

Sluggishness with a 6.2:popcorn: Check the bolts. If they are boogered up, just remember that TC bolts are application specific and high grade. Don't replace them with hardware store stuff.

I have a 4" lift with a 2" drop pitman arm. I confirmed that you can only put the steering wheel and pitman arm on one way. My draglink adjustment is bottomed out, cannot make the draglink any shorter. My steering wheel is offcenter to the left. I need to rotate about twenty degrees to center it...

You could have a flexplate starting to crack as well. Typically makes noise under heavy loads and then gets worse. Not much going on in a non-lockup TH400 TC. The only thing that could really fail is the stator bearing. It is a one way bearing so it either fails locked up or freewheels in both...

I wish I would have known that earlier, I just ordered some fab parts from McMaster Carr. I made a temporary one to verify operation and it works great. Thanks for the offer!

Dodge Power Wagon? Great rig but not tough as nails. Between the stamped sheetmetal suspension parts and the fact that you can't get more than 30k from a wheel bearing, balljoint, TRE, or steering box, not surpassing a CUCV in the strength/reliabiltiy department. Still a cool rig and I would...

Thank you for the heads up, still trying to fab something up that works.

4" with minimal trimming is best 6" starts to get heavily into driveline vibes, bigger steering corrections (crossover steering becoming mandatory) raising COG for no reason You would be far better to stay 2-4" with trimming and clocking the tcase up, you gain far more than just by lifting.

Need more info like what fuel and ignition system are you running. Since it is an 85, I assume carb with HEI. Use the pink wire going to the injection pump to feed your ignition coil. That's it! The 6.2 doesn't have much useless wiring on it. I also assume you are converting to a 12v system, do...

Does that actuator rod have a lot of freeplay between the two pipe and tube dimensions? I made on that has about 0.025" difference in materials and it binds up when you go WOT on the IP. Not a good scenario. I know I can't blame Toyota if this things sticks open on the highway :)

Excellent! I have the Barber Coleman tech manual for the governor pieces and the Marathon Electric tech manual for the generator head itself. Is there another one for the PTO drive on the SECM body? Also, anyone have a writeup on doing a single phase 120/240v conversion? I know I have to rewire...

Appreciate it I figure it must be telescoping, no way it could be a solid rod. I'm stoked that after troubleshooting a ton of misadjusted switches and poor connections, everything is functioning great. Don't know why the government removed the actuator rod to disable the whole system...:cookoo: