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Oh yeah, and this...

What a day. Bees/wasps, mudpuddles, heat & humidity, almost passed out choking on my lunch, forgot the tool box.

Allow for expansion. 10% should be enough. And vent.

A "d" turbo is a direct fit swap. No, on fixing the old one with scrape damage.

The part tech manuals list GM part numbers.

Winch

I'm right here, wondering why this is not posted in the classifieds(wanted section). Also considering if I should offer to sell the new ones I have.

Orings or shaft can leak fuel into the oil. Take the shut-off cover off, turn on the ignition switch(in-tank pump on) and look in and see if you see fuel leaking. FDC can leak too. Bypass it.

"Converting" to 12 volt, in this case would do absolutely nothing for you. Your dealing with the 12 volt alternator. Next time, repair not replace(with used) parts. Every single step and troubleshooting step is listed in the TMs. All you need to do is read and follow the step by step...

One more reason/example why we ask members to post pictures, not links.

Wouldn't it be best to ask what 100% tread is? New, 100% is 30/32".

I use a chain. Put a bolt though the chain and into a flange bolt hole, connect the other end to the frame(around). With it tight, the flange can not rotate.

Only the oil is interchangable. Well, the drainplug, vent and a few of the bolts too.

I replace mine with a heavy duty that clicks loudly. Google "loud flasher"

Wix, Baldwin, and Fram.

I would remove, inspect and clean your tank.

Reinstall the OEM fan and see if that cures the problem. I hope the fan shroud is still in place.

http://www.tnjmurray.com/militaryvehicles/index.cfm?shop/product/id/6542E6C8-E5DA-C2D3-D2612A1C3DEF673E

Nsn 5340-01-523-2989

Cargo tie down(same as the others on your bed). These were unit level installed. Welded in. Saturn Surplus has them(last I checked). If it isn't the same size hole, then no telling what was installed there.