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If you have the original fluid pressure switch, it's on the forward end of the air-pack(brake booster).
If you have the upgraded air pressure switch, it is between the air-pack and the tool box(where you step up into the truck).
You must be one of those old guys that needs to camp farther away from the fire, and don't like music.
I forgot about the GPA's.
I was thinking 16.00's would increase flotation!
Are you refering to the blackout drive light as the "main" blackout light?
So, you want to replace the "useless light" with some other unneeded light?
Why?:-?
Do you have any mechanical experience?
Why are you bleeding your brakes?
Have you read the Tech Manuals?
Do you know what brake fluid is in your truck? You must not mix fluids.
Well, since all the other threads do not come to a definite answer(nearly impossible to do when 30000 members tell you their opinion/experiance), why do you think this thread will yield a definite answer(there is no definitive answer).
You can buy the correct gasket separately(for sure), or...
Well, we've covered this before too.
Did you search before posting? (same question I asked when I deleted your other very common topic posting)
Did you see the gasket numbers in the FAQ/WIKI(that I referenced you to when I deleted your other thread)?
The simple answer is, sometimes...
From your last post, it sounds like you were measuring flywheel FACE run-out(not crankshaft end play), or not crankshaft bearing play.
You need to be more clear or people may have you disassembling your engine, for the wrong reasons.
Simply posting a picture of your dial indicator setup...
Try Pli-bond, available at most Ace hardware stores. It is a contact cement, and it can be used in layers to simply coat an area(pin holes and seams).
It will look just like the original seam sealant when dry.
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