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Without some explanation of how you broke it(consider this an educational post), this is a WANTED AD, and they do not go in the forums(we have a Wanted section in the classifieds). A Warning and Banning may follow... Also, consider title etiquette. Help, belongs in broke down threads that...

Bad grounds. Both bolts are used as separate grounds(park and brake/signal). Use capitalization, it's in the rules.

Yeah, and the hardest part will be shoving a whole new liner back up the drain hole in one piece.;)

I like magnet or rock, better. Nothing worse than having your engine rocks fall out. Or, Oh crap, I just grenaded an engine magnet...;)

14 ga wire and no fuse. It is fused on the positive side. A manual pushbutton on the light blue wire is simply grounding the relay coil to activate it. I'd use a 20 amp rated pushbutton.

If you put all those pieces back in exactly where they came from, it will be just fine.2cents

Do you have trouble pressing your brake pedal effectively now? Are your brakes recently serviced and functioning like they should be? I've never considered the pedal requiring more than I have, or less that satisfactory(with a well maintained brake system).

Probably. If you look at the nut in the TM, then google that NSN or part number, you probably can easily identify what angle flare and make your own. If I was to guess, I'd guess it will be 37 degree(JIC), but thats just a guess. Edit, I guessed wrong, according to Will's post below.

https://quickserve.cummins.com/genuineparts/303161900.html

My initial guess would be a bad starter solenoid. Possible broken starter nose, or improperly shimmed stater. I would guess that if you could make it run on again, and you removed either of the bigger wires on the under-dash relay, it would continue to run-on. I suspect your starter solenoid...

I was not there, for that one. No really, I was not there.

Did you have damage done when you experienced the starter run-on? Did you inspect and repair anything before simply changing the relay? Does your starter have tight bolts and the support bracket? Is your starter shimmed properly? A sticking Bendix drive could keep the starter engaged(powered...

A quick look at the TMs shows they have different part numbers. With a big enough hammer, drill and welder, anything is possible.

If you had called someone that knew what they were doing, it would have only taken 1 hour to fix...:-P

I think your asking about the air compressor coolant line. It can be found in TM9-2320-260-34P-1. Figure 88(that means exploded view # 88) Most likely the part number in the TM is a Cummins number(or will get you a Cummins number if you google the NSN(national stock number). 204898...

My dash pad says Custom Deluxe. I thought all CUCV dashes did.

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Well said(good enough to confuse almost every member we have!) And very correct. The misuse of the terms solenoid and relay, is rampant. My simple explanation is, a relay simply has contacts and a solenoid does something mechanical(and has contacts in many cases)

Ron, post#9 is the whole page from the TM(with the TM number listed in the top corner of the page). In my opinion(and the US Governments), nobody should operate an MV without first reading the -10TM.

Right click and save the TMs to your own computer(I put them in one folder per truck type). Then you can open and search them almost instantly.