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It looks like the voltage sense wire. It should be on the output side of the relay.

I removed the concrete weight from my tug today. They pour it in the assembled truck, so there is no easy way to lift it out without removing the rear body. I calculated the weight based on the dimensions. My best guess is it weighs 1700-1800 lbs(just the concrete). I hear a creaking...

Are there any signs of RTV on the base gasket area? I've seen several failures due to the oil supply hole being plugged from RTV.

TM 9-2320-209-34-2-1 9-4. AIR ACTUATED TRANSMISSION TRANSFER ASSEMBLY REPAIR. Refer to TM 9-2520-246-34-1 for procedures to repair the air actuated transmission transfer assembly. 9-5. DOUBLE SPRAG TRANSMISSION TRANSFER REMOVAL, REPAIR AND REPLACEMENT. We often misspell this(and that does...

If you have been doing all the things you have posted, I'm concerned that your flywheel is warped, clutch glazed and pressure plate bad. That would result in "chatter" as you describe now. There are several issues with a big truck, that do not make them the best for learning to drive a manual...

You should be able to let the clutch out in first gear with no throttle at all. Then accelerate up to 2200 and shift to second. Have you driven other manual shift vehicles before?

Does your front drive function ? I would leave it as is, if it does. The difference is, with an air activated switch, you select front drive on demand. The sprag, engages automatically when it senses wheel spin.

Replace the 2 o rings.

Easy guys... We do want to help him, right?

As a mechanic, you must be aware of the value of a good manual. The military trucks have some of the best technical manuals. Do you know about them? Do you have much experience wrenching on pre 70's vehicle?

I thought they had air brakes.

A knob from an MEP-002 or 3 would be about right.

I like the log idea! I think with 40 miles to go, I would have run it on the rim, just swappped the blow-out to the rear.

In and Out, is shown as the power circuit in the pics Warthog posted above(post #20). The big studs on the relay. In is the power side of the relay, out is the other side(going to the glow plugs. On most CUCVs, in is on top, and out is on the bottom.

To test, you can do a no load test by energizing it(closing the relay) and measure the resistance. You want little to no resistance. To do a Load test, do the same but with it wired into the system. Measure the voltage in and out of the relay. Any drop indicates bad.

Why don't you compile a list of what you found, and we can add to it if we know of something else, or if we know of anything newer.

I want people to follow the simple rules. (like using capitalization)

I left him a voicemail/message.

I'm a bit confused on how you did this but, I think your wired wrong for this to work.

Yes, and I think this is your no start/crank problem. Yes, too light, if it were the only ground(but in your case, it is not the only ground).