Search results

Maybe a backfire?

Is this the first time you've filled it full, since the changeout? Did you do the work? Did you replace the sending unit also? And buy a new seal and ring?

It just does, and by manually pumping the brake rather than use a power bleeder, you make a lot of bubbles. Look inside the MC res while pumping the pedal, you'll see what I'm talking about.

Maybe your sending unit seal is not sealing?

That's the correct order. Dot 5 can and will trap tiny bubbles when pumping it alot. Wait til tomorrow, and feel the pedal. Then, consider re bleeding if needed.

How did you fix the leak the first time? The best fix, is a new tank.

Did you bleed the air pack first? Did you use a power bleeder? Follow the vent line, it's about 4 feet long. It may go up near the air filter housing(MWO) or it may tie into your road draft tube.

I almost stopped reading (in disgust) at this point. You got me!:oops:

I see no reason one would be better to re-use, than the other.

I've considered adding a yellow line on the end of my drive shaft, to improve it's visibility to positively know that it is not rotating (or is). My ground guide always checks it for me after I place the pto in or out of gear.

Or, try hitting the outer diameter of the"housing" that the tapered shaft is in. The shock should pop it out of the taper fit. Here's a video of the concept. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpAwM2xH-IU

It is a sensor used with the ICE/STE system.

78 - 100 amp will be fine in most cases.

One truck I purchased, had the linkage improperly adjusted. The lever in the cab was in the neutral position with the floor gate down, but it was actually in gear. The winch engagement lever on the winch was in the disengaged position. I am assuming that they drove a long time like...

You should always run that generator at or near 60 hz, or you can damage the voltage regulator.

How about an update? Did you get gaskets overnight and where from and for how much? The next guy in your situation, might be able to learn from your experience.

I think the 6.2 pump has a 5/16" hex drive. If that's correct, pull the vac pump and tape together enough extensions and a socket, and crank it with a drill(CW). You could look at your old pump to verify the drive input.

Did you replace/swap the pickup tube? Is it pressed or brazed on? Is it at the correct height? I'm guessing you changed your oil pump, but I only see it mentioned in the title. Is it a new pump? Why did you change it?

Pull your vac pump and prime the pump and oil system manually. Did you prime the oil pump before or after you installed it?

Has anyone ever determined the actual production numbers for the wrecker/crane trucks?