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If you force it, you will break it.
You need to follow a proceed outlined in the tech manuals.
It has also been posted on SS, how to remove the hydraulic head.
I'll look for a link and the tm#.
I have used 8 ga wire for my jumper (and recommend that to others).
My question is, is the red wire that goes to the 12v junction stud(and its fusible link) adequate for the additional load when tapped for 12v supply to the GP relay.
I have always been sure to NOT have my lights or any other...
Also, my next concern is the wire size and fusible link capacity on the 12v wire that supplies the truck(when adding the GP load to it).
I personally have had no issues with a new short jumper wire(drawing off the 12v circuit).
So, in reference to post# 19. It is safe to say, the difference when resupplying to 12 volts is, you double the amp load on the front battery and eliminate all load on the rear battery (even though the amp load of the system is reduced slightly).
The part number in the -20P is 14076847 (for 1 resistor on the firewall).
4 PAOZZ 11862 14076847 RESISTOR,FIXED,WIRE qty2
Here's a link to a parts quote with the specifications.
http://www.ctg123.com/rapid-quote-system/request/?p=14076847
What I was attempting to do originally was...
Ok, putting this in text, has me very confused. These are the numbers I came up with, but I am having a hard time believing them. I thought there was around 40 amps drawn by the stock GP system. Where did I go wrong here?
The 2 resistors on the fire wall are .280 ohm(each). Wired in...
I would not try silver soldering it. I would use acid core 95/5 solder.
I don't think that soldering gun is going to do it. The Iron I use (not sure of the wattage) has a tip that is about 3/8" dia. It's a big one.
It wont hurt to try your gun. You may be able to get the hole soldered...
Sure looks correct.
To be sure it is, use an ohm meter and check for continuty between either of the 2 small studs, to the mount. There should be none.
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