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How much power did you lose?

From that video it’s hard to say. Could be a bad starter, bad flywheel, low charged battery.

Dump the 400. Contact Steve Kavanaugh retiredwarhorses and 86humv as resources to get the parts you need. 1998 vehicle is probably a 200 amp unit but I may be wrong. If this is only a three speed tranny then it is a 60 amp unit and needs an electric harness upgrade to convert to 200 amp...

Wow makes it look like a CUCV.

Check the TM for bleed procedure.

Welcome!

What is the name for part number 4? The wrench tool doohickey. I need one.

Time for a new engine and use this one as a boat anchor. If the engine was rare or valuable you could weld and sleeve it, but in this case it is cheaper to just save the internal parts and heads and get a new engine. IMHO. YMMV.

Something about that Ham story is not Kosher. Just sayin’.

I doubt these were designed for constant current. Even so, there are better safer properly designed and time tested options.

Is a NATO unit rated at 200+ constant Amps. I hope so or you will have one great BBQ. Don’t forget the marshmallows for s’mores. Bad idea. Use things for what they are meant for. If you want a power cutoff then buy a proper unit. They are not that expensive.

Our drive train only realistically allows a 22” or so shortening. Personally, I would never want a shortened version. Obviously opinions vary and there might be a market.

Interesting but I will never upgrade mine. Too many fail points.

Like I said, check the intake manifold bolt hole angles. If the engine already has an n/a manifold then who cares about the GF? Are you suspecting Chinese knock off heads? If so, buy another block. If the heads are original, then who cares about the stamp?

??? OEM heads are AMG /Detroit Diesel. N/a heads differ slightly from turbo heads. Turbo heads will not accept n/a manifold. The head bolts attaching the intake manifold to the head come in at different angle. You can identify with long bolts. Just place bolts in the intake manifold holes in...

Like others have said and implied, they used your vehicle as a parts car.

If you remove the engine, transmission, transfer case, you have an extremely reliable paper weight. If you replace the power train with a non-standard unit, you create an unreliable vehicle as everything you do will be custom one off.

Excellent. I just missed out on getting the newly unobtainable Shepard setup. I’m in the 220k region with my rig. Maybe not the strongest steering gear, but will be more easily serviced or replaced I guess.

Separating the cooling stack might have unintended consequences. It might allow air to leak in from the hot engine bay rather than from the grill. I think a clean stack is a good stack.

I don’t understand your juggernaut towards a centralized front diff. Everything else sounds good.