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You nailed it! Except I don’t recommend 100% because it’s prone to freezing and it is corrosive. If you buy a jug of 50/50 “premixed” you’re good to go
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Quick idea on the alternator, you could easily toss a GM 1 wire alternator on there, it’s a little excessive in amperage capacity for the application BUTTTT would give the ability to add lots of lighting for night cutting
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You can air down and use 50/50 coolant to balance them, safe, effective, will not corrode or damage wheels or the O-rings
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I managed 5.7 MPG with a M989a1 in tow and weighing in around 53k driving from Yermo California-South of Atlanta Georgia.
That was 65mph on the governor floored the entire time
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Funny story, had a co worker set off the halon charge in a massive server room. We both nearly suffocated before we made it out. Good times
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You’re most likely off on the hydraulic head mark.
I just went through this, please read my thread attached
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/hydraulic-head-assistance.202090/
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I think I speak collectively of the group when I say we have faith in y’all, we know if there’s a way it will be found!
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Something that might help you here, I’d strongly consider installing a supplemental ground harness. I didn’t know it at the time, but the bad grounding on these trucks can do some stupid stuff, not only did it kill headlights on my truck, but leave other lights in tact, but it killed gauges and...
Tackled changing the Hydraulic Head and fuel shutoff O-Rings. And it was disastrous, I generally consider myself mechanically inclined and tend to research before I jump into something like this. Spread out over 3 days, 12 hours of labor, a pump improperly timed to the engine during its last...
So I drank a beer, pulled out my TMs, consulted @Jeepsinker, then managed to turn the engine by mashing on the belt and turning the fan, set TDC via the rocker arms, and dialed in the quill washer 50/50 split because it was SLIGHTLY off. “I just don’t trust anything at this point” I think to...
Took it apart, my “fake” marking was visible, here’s the current damper and advance port. Looks like my pump may have been improperly assembled to the engine
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Update: I spent the evening going through everything again today:
•the white paint in the advance window
•my “new” red mark lined up
Pulled HH, cleaned and cleaned, until I found the scribe mark (couldn’t see the paint with any oil residue it was so faint) and it was 180° away. **Note this...
I think you made out alright! And welcome aboard, a serpentine 6.5 and 4 speed makes for a nice ride. I wouldn’t sweat the blow by terribly, get some fresh oil in it, check the CDR valve hose (Crankcase Depression Relief) for holes/dry rot, and get it up to operating temperature and see how it...
This morning I started it up, and it hunts pretty aggressive from 500-1200rpm cold and smooths out at 750 when warm. With it being advanced does it mean I have a race truck now?
Oh well, I’m going to fix it, but for educational sake what would be the short/long term effects of running it 1...
I did not break that part down, but I did pay close attention to it’s movement and it’s buttery-smooth. After speaking with @clinto, I’m leaning towards it may be a scribed tooth that I failed to spot, leading to me being 1 tooth off. I’m going to cold-start it in the morning to see how she...
Good evening everyone, I need some help.
Today I replaced my hydraulic head O-Rings, but ran into a hiccup; while looking through the advance port to locate the white paint (which I did see) I then began carefully barring the engine over looking for the Red Mark inside the shutoff cover. I used...
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