Search results

I printed the schematics and enlarged the section I was looking at, also highlighted the "path" made it way easy to trace. I also had a problem with a relay that wasn't plugged in properly, the pins had bent and it wasn't getting a good connection,taught me to be more careful and thorough...

I had that problem & found one of the relays had a bent pin so it wouldn't make contact. it felt like it was snapping in but wasn't... d.

no part number just a small diode from radioshack as I recall remove the top, there will be a row of diodes on the left side behind the control panel. my notes & drawings are 150 mi. away, let me know if you need more info & I'll get them next time I'm there. good luck, d.

master switch # 75902lv even on e-bay I had to make a longer jumper wire etc but works great & has a brass shaft, no plastic to snap off at the worst time.. search 802a here for my diode problem, cheap spare to have also a fuel pump would be good

after I read this I searched also, the 0031 number is for the 812 gen set the number for the 802 is dscc-2815-0030 the kit is probably the same, just another number to look for.. thanks for the info, d.

the only other problem I had was the main switch had a plastic shaft that broke replacements are on e-bay just search 75902lv buy it now $50. or offer

while it's down pull the covers and replace every fuel line you can see the fuel return seems to be the weak link and it's hard to get to.. go to a diesel hose shop and get the best fuel line they have. I found some that is cloth braided.. also my run problem was traced back to a bad diode #2...

so, after I replaced the switch as seen on other threads, everything worked great UNTIL another problem surfaced. when switching to prime/run no fuel pump action.. I traced it to low voltage (5 volts) at the fuel pump..with my limited knowledge of electronics I made a copy of the schematic &...

ok I replaced the switch, all the wires worked with a little rearranging ect I had to extend the wire on the diode between #7 & #1 power flows from 7 to 1. thanks to all who have read about all my problems & helped..

anyone that has a 802a should check there switch, if it's plastic plan on replacement in the future....

Just bought 3 @ $30. ea thanks again...

great, I knew someone would know how to solve my problem!!!!!!!!!!!! thanks....

no pix

If you follow my mep questions you realize as I have "it's always something" this time the knob/shaft broke off the main switch, (sw1) I found a part # but can't find anyone who has it... It's a krause & naimer chr10-c57400 thanks in advance for all the help..

optishift optishift has about the best price on controllers, $450 + harness $150 don't know of any 24v systems

I have a mep 802a that I use to run a 5th wheel camper, when the wife is with me I crank & run for hours.. my question is that when I'm by myself I just make coffee ect & don't need to run all day. should I run my backup gas gen. when I only need an hour or less or is it ok to start & stop the mep??

up & running got the fuel pump in, it was a pain to bleed but worked great.. start bleeding at the filters then to the inj lines then to the inj pump lines at the inj (on the side of the engine) you have to crank the engine to do this, the dead crank switch will crank the engine but shuts off...

a good heat gun works great for soldering fuel tanks ect... able to heat a larger area with no flame....

j&n the link above sent me to j&n they even had the best price 800-366-7100

I keep spreading the word, it's great, lots of info...