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thank you for the link! No, I have no plans to convert the truck to a turbo. Years ago, I have owned two M35A2c w/w and their were of course w/ turbo. I just liked the sound of it.

that thing amazes me. Did sit for years. Installed new batteries, pushing the starter button less than a second and it did run. It has a very high idle, what would make that happen and how can I correct it? Being a fuel truck, it did sit most of it's life, it has only 800 miles on the odometer...

I used DA pamphlet 750-33 and if I did things right, it identified the generator as the problem.

I am helping a friend to get this deuce tanker running again. One issue we have is getting no charge on the batteries. I cannot find a source for the 25amps generator. Truck sits on the West Coast. Anyone has a lead?

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Greetings from Munich, Bavaria, CARNAC! M35A2c, pretty sure winch was added later: a. 034011387 b. 04L59370 c. 2320009260873 d. Germany e. no info available Thanks a lot in advance

I believe it is save to say that in the last 10 years no more M35 are coming out of the Army system over here. So practically all traded now in Germany are from private individuals or dealerships. This particular one was purchased from the Army about 16 years ago, with many missing parts like...

One thing people do over here is get gasoline - diesel mixture when people use the wrong pump. I have however not found a source yet.

Well I thought best replacement for the M35A2c w/w I sold beginning of the year is a M35A2c w/w. Picked up the new deuce today...

I am surprised that nobody listed the original geared lug wrench. To my knowledge only that one will help if the thimble turns with the nut. All of them did that on the now-gone deuce I had because they were so terribly corroded.

still not exactly understand. There is no relay in the drawing. But more important, I cannot see in your pic of the installed alternator that you connected the terminal 1 + 2. I just see a thin red wire in parallel to the positive wire to the battery.

ground is ground, no matter 12 or 24 volts. So that's fine. what do you mean by switching the alternator on and off? How do you want to do that?

Now certainly you will. You need to remove the HH again. Make sure that the plunger button is there. Turn the engine until you have #1 cylinder in compression, align the damper marking and install the HH. Now the notch has to align with a valley right next to the scribed tooth. The scribed tooth...

Sure. If you haven't turned the engine in the time it was off. If the scribed tooth was exactly under the notch install it that way. If you have turned it, different topic.

Actually that is easier than you might think. Stand on the front bumper and turn the engine with the fan blades with one hand while using the other hand to tension the belts. You will be only able to turn it in one direction. For removing the HH I would turn the red tooth exactly under the...

I would say a bad lower o-ring in the HH could cause that

I don't believe I want to come across being the expert. I have just recently been there and do know now a little bit the errors to be made changing the HH for the first time. For example I dropped that little pin in the grass and took me an hour to find it again. I installed the HH 180° out of...

I would only do one after the other and not mess with it at present.

Picture 6 from Gimpy shows the rod with the pin at the end. Pull the rod out slowly and you will not loose it. Just be aware that it is not fixed in the rod but can slide out.

I went thru removing and installing the HH a couple of times and just reused that gasket all the time. It never leaked oil. Once you cut the safety wire and remove the bolts and remove the cut off rod be very careful not to loose that little pin on the other end of it. It slides into the...