need help with starter for my 89 3 kw 24v generator

well and stalled a new glow plug. I did it when the fuel cap is off and I tried with the fuel cap on the smoke coming from the exhaust is white and for some reason it just will not crank over.

Did all the things listed. Not starting. And have white smoke. Wtf

If it is a 016b. (i have had three marked as 016b, but were actually 016es with the yanmar l100 engine) then it could be as simple as making sure the throttle is wide open. Do the fuel pumps make noise? or just click?

Okay, the white smoke means that it is getting fuel and that is a good thing.

Did you confirm that it is turning over in the proper direction after the starter rewind?

Is it turning over as fast as it did before all the work and new starter?

Yes

wiccantoy said:

Yes

Click to expand...

Were you able to check the compression?

How long did it sit and how much did you run it when it last ran?

If it is getting fuel and white smoking then either a bad injector or loss of compression is possible. Air in the fuel or bad delivery valve on the injection pump is possible too.

I'm wondering if it has an intake or exhaust valve stuck or not seating properly.

Pulling the valve cover to check the valve motion is a pain because the breather hose is fastened on the bottom of the cover. Need to pull the air box, and pull the inlet hose and remove the metal shroud then the valve cover. I forget if the frame needs to come off too. Like I said that is a pain to do. Not hard just a lot of time. The valves have hydraulic lifters so no valve adjustment needed but if a valve is sticking or stuck then you can see it. The compression check would let you know. Compression can be checked through the glow plug hole. NAPA or a diesel shop might have an adapter to go in the glow plug hole.

I would guess compression or injector is the problem.

Does it sound like it is leaking air out the inlet or exhaust when rolling over?

Another question: did you verify that the glow plug still works? Mine's a really cold-blooded beast and wants some heat on the glow plug if it has been sitting for more than about 15 minutes even if the engine is warm.

did you check the fuel shut off solenoid? Try holding it in while turning it over. You should hear a loud clink when you turn the start switch to the run and or start position. Good luck!

where is that solenoid located?

It's a plunger solenoid that pushes the IP speed control arm to spring-loaded full-closed by default. It has to retract in order for the engine to run. The solenoid is wired through a relay to a low fuel level reed switch in the fuel tank. It takes most of a gallon of fuel to make the float rise high enough that the set will run consistently.

So when I turn the key on when I Start to crank it should come off that nipple??

Actually, when you turn the master switch to 'run' it should retract then. It should stay retracted in 'start.' This is different than on the MEP-002A/003A which won't retract the plunger in 'run' unless there's OK oil pressure and head temperature. On the MEP-016B it's all about the float switch in the fuel tank - if the power is turned on and there's enough fuel in the tank, then the plunger should be retracted. See the appropriate TM for plunger adjustment, but I would guess that they generally work or don't - not much to it.

Pic with cutoff solenoid circled (ovaled?) in red:


Worth mentioning that you get a chattering solenoid in a marginal low-fuel condition. Drove me nuts until I put about a gallon of fuel in the tank.

I had a chattering solenoid, my fuel level switch works, and now the solenoid does nothing. I pulled the plug, and only get 16 volts when I turn it to run. While I had the volt meter hooked to the solenoid plug, I moved my fuel level float up and down, and it would go from 0 - 16 volts. I have not done the ohm, test on the solenoid itself, but shouldn't I get 24 volts to energize the solenoid?

The wiring runs from the float switch to a relay in the control box, then to the solenoid. The wiring on these things is not as well protected as it might be - check carefully for exposed conductors and loose connections. Your lowish voltage is also suggestive of a wiring problem. The relays are double-headed and can be rotated 180 degrees or interchanged if you are suspicious of one, but I bet your problem is wiring or a flaky ground.

steelypip said:

The wiring runs from the float switch to a relay in the control box, then to the solenoid. The wiring on these things is not as well protected as it might be - check carefully for exposed conductors and loose connections. Your lowish voltage is also suggestive of a wiring problem. The relays are double-headed and can be rotated 180 degrees or interchanged if you are suspicious of one, but I bet your problem is wiring or a flaky ground.

Click to expand...

Good point on flakey ground. I have had that issue too from time to time. I suggest unplugging the solenoid and jumping it to the battery to prove it works then go backwards in the wiring from there. The wiring diagram in the lid on the box is the only one I have seen that includes the engine and frame mounted devices and has all the codes for the pins on the connectors too.

Good news, the solenoid works just fine when I jumped it from the battery. I checked and re-checked the fuel level float switch. As a last resort I tapped on all the relays (k1,k2,...) Suddenly everything worked perfectly. Then about three minutes into running smoke puffed out of the board. The r14 diode fried. What now? Are the k1,k2etc. Relays double headed. I could solder in a new diode if I new which one was needed. Better yet, if anyone has an extra control board for a mep016b, I would love to buy it. I am trying to get this thing going for my father-in-law. (father's day) thanks!

If a diode let go like that, I'd be suspicious of a short somewhere. Check all that wiring over carefully for rubbing points against metal, crimped spots, etc. I believe the relays are double-headed, so you just flip them end for end. And yes, the ability to do easy component-level repairs (like replacing that diode) is something that everybody loves about the MEP generators.

jonster said:

The r14 diode fried. What now? ...I could solder in a new diode if I new which one was needed.

Click to expand...

The diodes usually have a part number on them. Can you see the number on a similar one or post a photo? I looked for a schematic, but haven't found one yet. Unless D14 is a big power rectifier diode with a stud mount, I bet you can use a 1N5408, which is an inexpensive 3 amp 1000V diode. After you find what caused the failure, installing a new diode shouldn't be a problem.

I will pull the board and post some pics tonight. Thanks for the help.

Jon