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Thread: Engine knocking LDS-456

  1. #41
    Colonel Oerthedge21's Avatar
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    It was my understanding the LTD and LDS both had liners. I could be wrong since I've never been in an LDT, but we the LDS has replaceable liners
    1968 M35A2C W/W
    1985 CUCV M1010 (Sold)

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  3. #42
    4 Star General cattlerepairman's Avatar
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    Affirmative. Removable liners in both.
    MVPA member. 1974 M35A2C w/w "Queen Lola", rebuilt LDS-465-1A, "D" turbo, Waterloo Overdrive upgrade. Med towbar, 11.00R20 Goodyear G286, flipped hubs, remote brake fluid reservoir, spin-on filters, bypassed FDC, LED taillights, LED headlights, LED turn signals, WESTACH EGT/boost gauge, AVM lockout hubs, LED convoy light, LED lollipop lights, HMMWV seat on air ride base, M211 dash passenger grab handle, hood lift kit, 24V solargizer/battery minder, ether start kit, flasher module mod, heavy duty dog bone ends, M35A3 aluminium fuel tank.

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  5. #43
    Colonel Oerthedge21's Avatar
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    Yes I had thought so. Got the oil drained out but it looks like that gonna be pretty much it for today, not gonna have much more time sadly.
    1968 M35A2C W/W
    1985 CUCV M1010 (Sold)

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  7. #44
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    Ive heard a lot of people say that the head gaskets with the integral firre ring are better, what makes the ones with the separate ring worse than them? Also, does anyone know where to get the integral style gaskets? I can only find the ones with the separate rings, and they're always part of a kit which just has everything I need.
    1968 M35A2C W/W
    1985 CUCV M1010 (Sold)

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  9. #45
    4 Star General cattlerepairman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oerthedge21 View Post
    Ive heard a lot of people say that the head gaskets with the integral firre ring are better, what makes the ones with the separate ring worse than them? Also, does anyone know where to get the integral style gaskets? I can only find the ones with the separate rings, and they're always part of a kit which just has everything I need.
    https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?187829-Re-torquing-the-quot-new-style-quot-multifuel-head-gasket

    Separate head gasket:
    http://www.memphisequipment.com/M35-...8525-5330.html

    Set WITH latest style gasket: http://www.memphisequipment.com/M35-...el-Engine.html


    Last edited by cattlerepairman; 08-25-2019 at 17:28.
    MVPA member. 1974 M35A2C w/w "Queen Lola", rebuilt LDS-465-1A, "D" turbo, Waterloo Overdrive upgrade. Med towbar, 11.00R20 Goodyear G286, flipped hubs, remote brake fluid reservoir, spin-on filters, bypassed FDC, LED taillights, LED headlights, LED turn signals, WESTACH EGT/boost gauge, AVM lockout hubs, LED convoy light, LED lollipop lights, HMMWV seat on air ride base, M211 dash passenger grab handle, hood lift kit, 24V solargizer/battery minder, ether start kit, flasher module mod, heavy duty dog bone ends, M35A3 aluminium fuel tank.

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  11. #46
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    I see the new gaskets have some different holes than my old ones. The ones that came off my truck look like this head-gasket-m35a2.jpg
    Whereas the new ones look like this
    Screenshot_20190826-075001.jpg
    What's with the different shaped lifter slots? Is it just part of the updated design? Or do I need to buy the older style multi piece gaskets
    1968 M35A2C W/W
    1985 CUCV M1010 (Sold)

  12. #47
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    Sorry to hijack but it may fit the thread. Seen on previous posts guys recommendations of what to look at when the pan is down. Can't seem to find those posts now. Took mine down for cleaning, painting, gasket change. My LDT looks to have 12pt bolts already installed. Looks pretty fresh. What else do you guys look for and check while under here?

  13. #48
    Colonel Oerthedge21's Avatar
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    Check the crank and rods for obvious damage or cracks, give everyhting a shake and make sure there's nothing glaringly loose. If your engine has high miles or hours now would be the time to do rod and/or main bearings since it's already open
    1968 M35A2C W/W
    1985 CUCV M1010 (Sold)

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  15. #49
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    Pulled the pan today and found a nice surprise. My rods already have the 12pt bolts installed.IMG_20190826_162816103.jpg
    Now I gotta spin this big boy over and pull the piston, hopefully this goes smoothly
    Last edited by Oerthedge21; 08-26-2019 at 16:38.
    1968 M35A2C W/W
    1985 CUCV M1010 (Sold)

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    Ok well that was so easy it actually has me worried. Managed to spin the engine over by using the fan, got the rod bolts out and pushed the piston out. Or well, the piston AND liner. Aren't the liners supposed to be a real tight fit? Thre's oil between the liner and block, and the #1 and #3 liners also began sliding up when I was spinning the engine over. Is that supposed to be like that? IMG_20190826_173829134.jpgIMG_20190826_173835596.jpg
    1968 M35A2C W/W
    1985 CUCV M1010 (Sold)

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