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Thread: MEP 831A Fix-up Thread

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by CallMeColt View Post
    This is from the TM for the 531A/501A units? The TM for the MEP-831A is 0033. Has basically no information. Says basically that if it's broken, replace it.
    Yes, that is from the 2kW TM.

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    Colt,
    I took some mechanical measurement's today on one of my 831's for you to compare your actuator and mechanical governor to.
    Measurements are shown below as measurement "A" and "B".
    "A" is the gap between the magnet and the target on the actuator arm as measured at the top of the two surfaces.
    "B" is the distance from the black throttle arm and the bottom edge of the top of the mechanical governor plate.
    See pic below for locations of distances "A" and "B".
    Click picture below to zoom in.
    Governor Settings 9-10-19.jpg

    In all conditions below the round ball nut on the actuator rod is firmly seated in the black throttle arm socket.

    Condition 1: Generator off and target contacting magnet.
    Distance A = 0.00"
    Distance B = 4.100"

    Condition 2: Generator off and actuator "pinned" for a manual start. Spring loaded pin in holding actuator in near WOT position for a manual start.
    Distance A = 1.00"
    Distance B = 3.52"

    Condition 3: Holding the actuator as far away from the magnet as possible.
    Distance A = 1.265"
    Distance B = 3.360"

    HTH!
    MEP-831A Governor Controller Replacements for the SLC100, 2990-01-477-1371, 98-19539. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...90#post2233190
    MEP-802A/MEP-803A Remote Start Kits
    https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...92#post2233192
    MEP-831A Battery Charger Repair & Repair Kits https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...83#post2231683
    MEP-831A Remote Start / Governor Controller Kits https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...49#post2245549

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  4. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by kloppk View Post
    Colt,
    I took some mechanical measurement's today on one of my 831's for you to compare your actuator and mechanical governor to.
    Measurements are shown below as measurement "A" and "B".
    "A" is the gap between the magnet and the target on the actuator arm as measured at the top of the two surfaces.
    "B" is the distance from the black throttle arm and the bottom edge of the top of the mechanical governor plate.
    See pic below for locations of distances "A" and "B".
    Click picture below to zoom in.
    Governor Settings 9-10-19.jpg

    In all conditions below the round ball nut on the actuator rod is firmly seated in the black throttle arm socket.

    Condition 1: Generator off and target contacting magnet.
    Distance A = 0.00"
    Distance B = 4.100"

    Condition 2: Generator off and actuator "pinned" for a manual start. Spring loaded pin in holding actuator in near WOT position for a manual start.
    Distance A = 1.00"
    Distance B = 3.52"

    Condition 3: Holding the actuator as far away from the magnet as possible.
    Distance A = 1.265"
    Distance B = 3.360"

    HTH!
    Fantastic information. Tomorrow, I will check mine against these.

  5. #44
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    Alright, did a bunch of work today.

    Installed the new controller. Very easy. I'd almost recommend just buying this controller if you get one of these units no matter what so you never need to worry about adjustments. It's sent with labels for the wires but I found it faster to just write the letter on the connectors.
    71102355_3020237428050472_5388367120889282560_n.jpg

    Installed a rubber battery hold down & put some padding on the sides/bottom of the battery to help protect it. Neatened up the battery cables & put covers on the terminals.
    Also re-installed the 24v solar charger & hooked all the wires up. Not sure if it is actually working. In the sun or not, the red LED on top blinks?
    71258815_2235031256606466_6542072938063986688_n.jpg

    Picture of the new hour meter.

    70163832_406107506711149_9058185661915332608_n.jpg

    Since I was checking it so much, I wrote some of the controller information on the inside of the front cover. During my testing today they were right where they needed to be as per the TM.

    70266042_392288591457441_5862025722134003712_n.jpg

    Finally stopped the fuel drip from the water/filter assembly. I ended up ordering a complete, cheap assembly with a filter. $17 shipped. The bowl had a small crack & the gasket for the vent/drain would not hold. Way cheaper than the original part number & it works. Search R12T filter on eBay. I kept my WIX one on there & will swap to the R12T filter after I empty this tank.

    70556168_2415773978695219_8879963739109982208_n.jpg

    I had to remove & rotate the pull start assembly. With it being a "Chanmar" 186F copy, when the pull cord was run through the hole that is provided for it, the teeth that come out to grab & turn the motor were slightly come out & when the motor was running, barley touching. Made a scratching noise & sparked. Also changed the pull handle to a D shape type one.


    After a little adjusting & tweaking, all seems to be proper. No more of the linkage lifting out of the fuel lever. I'm still getting a slight up & down at a no load idle but I'm not to worried. On on the threads I have read on here, some have said they had this happen with a little to much oil in it & also when there was a little bit of obstruction in the fuel return lines. Oil will be changed after I do an extended load test. I will check the line for obstructions when I get to figuring out the fuel level sender issue.

    I had to order small #8 bolts for mounting the top vent fan. Once they come, I am going to wire it in. I didn't have any of the wires for the fan past the two pin connector running with the main wire harness. I looked at the TM & it gives me the some of the information that I need, but it doesn't give all because the replacement fan I ordered didn't come with it's wire cord & the pins aren't numbered. Can someone by chance look at their wires & tell me what wires with the numbers on them (101H18 & 102N18 ) go to what pin on the fan & temperature switch? And also, what direction the airflow is? Nowhere does it say if this fan fulls are in or pushes it out.
    Fan Wiring.jpg

    I measured my mechanical governor heights from the plate of their screwed into to the top of the bold heads. Top one is 0.798. Bottom is .937. Not to far off from what others here on the thread have shared with me.

    I did full load test with a 240v 3,000 watt heater for 30 minuets but didn't want to go to long since I noticed a lot of heat coming out of the top vent, even without the fan. I got around 135 deg. Being in south Texas, it's still very hot out. Want to wait to do a real extended load test to clean out the gunk from years of sitting but will once the fan is in. As I said before, I also hooked up a heat gun that pulls exactly 673 watts on low while doing the load test for a bit. The generator kept up but I didn't push it for more than 2 minuets. Lot's of black smoke. When I applied the extra load, the engine revved up, then down a few times until it found the sweet point. I know this unit is rated for 3,000 watts. Is my overload fault not working, or can these units really push that much power? I don't plan to run that much on it at all on a normal basis. If i tried to turn the 3,673 watt load on all at once, it tried then the load is dumped... but no overload fault.

    I took some more video today but it will take a bit to upload. Will share that when it's ready. Basically shows & talks about all of this post.
    Last edited by CallMeColt; 09-16-2019 at 18:33.

  6. #45
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  7. #46
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  8. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by CallMeColt View Post
    ... Can someone by chance look at their wires & tell me what wires with the numbers on them (101H18 & 102N1 go to what pin on the fan & temperature switch? And also, what direction the airflow is?
    Fan Wiring.jpg
    The airflow direction is OUT of the cabinet.

    As for the wiring it's on the picture you posted.
    But to clarify it's...
    101H18 goes to P14-1. J14-1 goes to the thermostat S21 pin 1. Thermostat S21 pin 2 goes to the fan pin 1. (This is the hot leg being fed by L1 from the inverter.)
    102N18 goes to P14-2. J14-2 goes to the fan pin 2. (This is the Neutral leg being fed by Neutral from the inverter.)

    I'll look and see if I can track down a fan cord and the mating connector J14 for you.
    MEP-831A Governor Controller Replacements for the SLC100, 2990-01-477-1371, 98-19539. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...90#post2233190
    MEP-802A/MEP-803A Remote Start Kits
    https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...92#post2233192
    MEP-831A Battery Charger Repair & Repair Kits https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...83#post2231683
    MEP-831A Remote Start / Governor Controller Kits https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...49#post2245549

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  10. #48
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    Part number for P14 is 03-09-1022. NSN: 5935-01-012-1273 . You need the other side.
    This is a MOLEX plug. Should be easy to find both the male and female sides of the plug.

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  12. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guyfang View Post
    Part number for P14 is 03-09-1022. NSN: 5935-01-012-1273 . You need the other side.
    This is a MOLEX plug. Should be easy to find both the male and female sides of the plug.
    J14 that Colt needs is a Molex ‎0003092022. $0.23
    The pins are Molex ‎0002092103‎. $0.16 each

    The fan cord is a Guardtec and looks like PN HP50-24 will work. It has 24" leads to work with. $0.85

    These are all avalailble thru DigiKey.
    Last edited by kloppk; 09-16-2019 at 15:54.
    MEP-831A Governor Controller Replacements for the SLC100, 2990-01-477-1371, 98-19539. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...90#post2233190
    MEP-802A/MEP-803A Remote Start Kits
    https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...92#post2233192
    MEP-831A Battery Charger Repair & Repair Kits https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...83#post2231683
    MEP-831A Remote Start / Governor Controller Kits https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...49#post2245549

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    69birdman (09-16-2019), CallMeColt (09-16-2019), Guyfang (09-16-2019)

  14. #50
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    Thank you! I found the fan cord & have ordered it.

    I'm going to use my shop supplies to do the rest. I actually may have the needed connector in my bin but if not, I have something else suitable.

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