Yes, if I were to refurbish one of these ever again I would not even bother with the old style controller.I follow your exploits with interest, and your keenness for follow thru and getting things done. That all said, having owned 5 of these units, there is no way I will ever own or work on another until the original GAC controller has been replaced with one of Klopp's replacement controller units. While none or not much of your problems seem related to the original controller, always in some failing state, still it's insane the set up and reliability of these unit using the original controllers, [more rant] I am of the strong opinion/belief it's not a question of when the original controller will cause reliability/readiness issues. Only that it will occur ...
I don't know Klopp from shinola but i know his 831A controllers are the single best improvement preventative effort that can be made to make these sets start/run and operate reliably..
Window units. One is a 8,000 BTU & one is a 10,000 BTU. 10 AWG wiring. Maybe 50ft total including the extension cord hooking the generator to my cabin. They're less than 3 years old. I tried both on 115 volt mode & 240 volt mode. Even connecting both legs in 115 volt mode didn't do it.What kind of AC units are they?
If I had know better at the time, I would have done something like that. I already have the window units mounted in holes I framed out for them in the cabin. All trimmed out & sealed. Down the road, I might change over & put windows in the holes but these are in there & work for now.If you ever want to upgrade the units you might consider one of the inverter based ACs. I can easily start mine with the 831. Its a 14kbtu 120v unit. Really energy efficient too! I run it in the summer time off the solar setup. It was a bit over $500.
I have the aftermarket controller that Kurt makes on this unit.Well... I've noticed on a few units that this is the first symptoms of the speed controller failing. As a test you can try to adjust the tuning pots on the controller and see if that does anything.
I had one go down that road and the speed control became more and more erratic until it would bounce between full throttle and shudown. Replacing the controller solved the problem. I thought I was making it better by adjusting the settings on the controller but not really.
If cleaning the pots on the controller doesn't solve the problem then I would go ahead and order a spare. Once the problem gets to the point where it bugs you replace it.
I will do this all tomorrow after work & report back. Thanks for the reply!Can you post a video of the actuator when it's surging?
Also if you have a meter measure the DC voltage across terminals D & E on the controller when it's surging.
At no load the voltage should be almost 0.0 VDC.
Does the DC voltage remain virtually 0.0 or is it bliping up?
You're a genuine hero!Thx for the video and measuring the voltages at the D-E terminals.
After studying the video the surge you are experiencing could be triggered by the set failing to throttle down to a no load speed of ~3,050 RPM. You may want to see if there is anything that may be restricting the mechanical throttle from moving to reduce engine RPM.
If there doesn't appear to be any issue with the mechanical linkage binding then do this. Loosen the black knob on the mechanical governor plate and move it a bit toward the STOP position and re-tighten the black knob.
If it still surges do that a couple of more times to see if it corrects the issue.
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