MEP 831A Fix-up Thread

CallMeColt

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So, took it out to my off grid place to run it overnight & be sure all the kinks were worked out. Got 4 hours out of it. Woke up just after falling asleep to it making an off noise. Muffler broke right at the header! Seems like a strange thing to break. Turns out the two bolts on the back side were missing that hold it from vibrating. I'd say that, along with a long time of being left in a field by the person I got it from, were the cause. A co-worker of mine is going to weld it back together for me.

83920805_1259113847810373_8182444299867127808_n.jpg 84276625_2566706090241993_7097394698855120896_n.jpg
 

mciikurzroot

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I follow your exploits with interest, and your keenness for follow thru and getting things done. That all said, having owned 5 of these units, there is no way I will ever own or work on another until the original GAC controller has been replaced with one of Klopp's replacement controller units. While none or not much of your problems seem related to the original controller, always in some failing state, still it's insane the set up and reliability of these unit using the original controllers, [more rant] I am of the strong opinion/belief it's not a question of when the original controller will cause reliability/readiness issues. Only that it will occur ...
I don't know Klopp from shinola but i know his 831A controllers are the single best improvement preventative effort that can be made to make these sets start/run and operate reliably..
best: mac/mc
 

CallMeColt

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Wilson County, Texas
I follow your exploits with interest, and your keenness for follow thru and getting things done. That all said, having owned 5 of these units, there is no way I will ever own or work on another until the original GAC controller has been replaced with one of Klopp's replacement controller units. While none or not much of your problems seem related to the original controller, always in some failing state, still it's insane the set up and reliability of these unit using the original controllers, [more rant] I am of the strong opinion/belief it's not a question of when the original controller will cause reliability/readiness issues. Only that it will occur ...
I don't know Klopp from shinola but i know his 831A controllers are the single best improvement preventative effort that can be made to make these sets start/run and operate reliably..
best: mac/mc
Yes, if I were to refurbish one of these ever again I would not even bother with the old style controller.

Thanks for the compliment on following thru. Over the years & watching the internet grow, I have always hated dead ends on things like forums or projects. I also disliked how the information, when available, is there but like a puzzle. When I contribute, I want to NOT do those two things if at all possible!
 

CallMeColt

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Got the muffler fixed.

85205721_645474706189016_5276605887094456320_n.jpg

The two bolts that were missing in the back are hard to get at unless you remove the started. Removed it & found some bolts to use.

87168284_3087948367896249_8017918984819048448_n.jpg

Found that the lower started bolt was missing! Found it underneath it. Put that back in & everything is tight & snug.

Re-did all the rubber sealing around the cover. Double checked things for tightness. Ran for 30 minuets under load.

All is working as it should.

Since it's 100% now & it won't quite power what I need it to at my off grid place, I think I may try to sell it & fund another MEP-802A or a MEP-803A. It's a cool little unit but the inverter just can't handle the surge load I need to run my A/C units.
 

CallMeColt

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What kind of AC units are they?
Window units. One is a 8,000 BTU & one is a 10,000 BTU. 10 AWG wiring. Maybe 50ft total including the extension cord hooking the generator to my cabin. They're less than 3 years old. I tried both on 115 volt mode & 240 volt mode. Even connecting both legs in 115 volt mode didn't do it.

Sometimes, they will barley start. But I don't really want the hassle or the maybe. It gets very hot out there in the summer. :)
 

DieselAddict

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If you ever want to upgrade the units you might consider one of the inverter based ACs. I can easily start mine with the 831. Its a 14kbtu 120v unit. Really energy efficient too! I run it in the summer time off the solar setup. It was a bit over $500.
 

CallMeColt

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If you ever want to upgrade the units you might consider one of the inverter based ACs. I can easily start mine with the 831. Its a 14kbtu 120v unit. Really energy efficient too! I run it in the summer time off the solar setup. It was a bit over $500.
If I had know better at the time, I would have done something like that. I already have the window units mounted in holes I framed out for them in the cabin. All trimmed out & sealed. Down the road, I might change over & put windows in the holes but these are in there & work for now.
 

CallMeColt

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So, I have had a minor issue pop up & no idea what it could be.

When starting it up with the electric start, the engine will keep surging every 10 seconds or so. I thought it was due to air in the lines but I'm confident that's not the issue anymore. I checked to be sure all the adjustments are where they should be with the controller linkage & cleaned the magnet. After closing the contactor & running under load for even a few seconds, then removing the load, it won't do it anymore.

Otherwise, it runs extremely well.

Any ideas?
 

DieselAddict

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Well... I've noticed on a few units that this is the first symptoms of the speed controller failing. As a test you can try to adjust the tuning pots on the controller and see if that does anything.

I had one go down that road and the speed control became more and more erratic until it would bounce between full throttle and shudown. Replacing the controller solved the problem. I thought I was making it better by adjusting the settings on the controller but not really.

If cleaning the pots on the controller doesn't solve the problem then I would go ahead and order a spare. Once the problem gets to the point where it bugs you replace it.
 

CallMeColt

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Well... I've noticed on a few units that this is the first symptoms of the speed controller failing. As a test you can try to adjust the tuning pots on the controller and see if that does anything.

I had one go down that road and the speed control became more and more erratic until it would bounce between full throttle and shudown. Replacing the controller solved the problem. I thought I was making it better by adjusting the settings on the controller but not really.

If cleaning the pots on the controller doesn't solve the problem then I would go ahead and order a spare. Once the problem gets to the point where it bugs you replace it.
I have the aftermarket controller that Kurt makes on this unit.
 

kloppk

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Can you post a video of the actuator when it's surging?

Also if you have a meter measure the DC voltage across terminals D & E on the controller when it's surging.
At no load the voltage should be almost 0.0 VDC.
Does the DC voltage remain virtually 0.0 or is it bliping up?
 

CallMeColt

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Can you post a video of the actuator when it's surging?

Also if you have a meter measure the DC voltage across terminals D & E on the controller when it's surging.
At no load the voltage should be almost 0.0 VDC.
Does the DC voltage remain virtually 0.0 or is it bliping up?
I will do this all tomorrow after work & report back. Thanks for the reply!
 

kloppk

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Thx for the video and measuring the voltages at the D-E terminals.

After studying the video the surge you are experiencing could be triggered by the set failing to throttle down to a no load speed of ~3,050 RPM. You may want to see if there is anything that may be restricting the mechanical throttle from moving to reduce engine RPM.

If there doesn't appear to be any issue with the mechanical linkage binding then do this. Loosen the black knob on the mechanical governor plate and move it a bit toward the STOP position and re-tighten the black knob.
If it still surges do that a couple of more times to see if it corrects the issue.
 

CallMeColt

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Thx for the video and measuring the voltages at the D-E terminals.

After studying the video the surge you are experiencing could be triggered by the set failing to throttle down to a no load speed of ~3,050 RPM. You may want to see if there is anything that may be restricting the mechanical throttle from moving to reduce engine RPM.

If there doesn't appear to be any issue with the mechanical linkage binding then do this. Loosen the black knob on the mechanical governor plate and move it a bit toward the STOP position and re-tighten the black knob.
If it still surges do that a couple of more times to see if it corrects the issue.
You're a genuine hero!

Problem solved. I had a lot of ideas but that wasn't one of them. As I was working on another project, I started it a few times & let it run at idle. No issues. Put a load on & off a few times as well. Seems to be all good.
 
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