What have you done to your CUCV today/lately? - Part 1

There is a flat area on the tranny tunnel right behind the 4wd lever. I used that area to ensure it was level and straight then used, I believe, 3" PVC to space the back of the console up to make it level with the front. Toward the rear of the tunnel it dips low so it needed quite a bit of leveling. Then I used 2 1.5 inch stainless bolts for the front and 2 4.5 inch stainless bolts for the rear with stainless lock nuts and washers. It's nice and tight and isn't going anywhere. I included a pic so you can see. It's not the best but you get the idea. The console wasn't finished in this pic and the PVC has since been painted green.

Hope this helps!!

DXTAC said:

There is a flat area on the tranny tunnel right behind the 4wd lever. I used that area to ensure it was level and straight then used, I believe, 3" PVC to space the back of the console up to make it level with the front. Toward the rear of the tunnel it dips low so it needed quite a bit of leveling. Then I used 2 1.5 inch stainless bolts for the front and 2 4.5 inch stainless bolts for the rear with stainless lock nuts and washers. It's nice and tight and isn't going anywhere. I included a pic so you can see. It's not the best but you get the idea. The console wasn't finished in this pic and the PVC has since been painted green.

Hope this helps!!

Click to expand...

Thanks next week my cup holders are going to be here monday and i plan on starting it tuesday thanks again thats a great idea for a center console

I got a used rear window today it was broken when I got it.

I wanted a whole different tailgate since mine is rusted but I went to the junkyards and only found one K5 blazer with a tailgate not a lot better than mine and they said the glass was seperate so I just got the glass for now until I can find a good tailgate

I needed to keep the dust out when driving on dirt roads and the exhaust fumes out

Today I finally hooked up the 2/0 cables I got on the internet (100 feet and a 16 foot stinger lead and 300 amp stinger all for $60 ) a new ground clamp and new Tweeco male and female connector, some 5/32 rod and actually welded with the old Hobart for the first time since I have owned her. Did a fine job. I have been using the generator to run the air compressor, but this was the welding innaguration. I was pleased. My little 115 V MIG just did not have the power to weld effectively on the old General Engines(now Eager Beaver) 9 ton trailer, but the Hobart did well. I was nice to hear the governor kick in and work when the arc was struck. I am having a little trouble getting the Wisconsin to idle for cool down...I slow it down with the throttle and it just coasts to a stop. Have to look into that soon.

Okay, I started off winning this bute from GL for 240 bucks
so far I put a new engine (civy J code last year they where built 1993)
Installed a 700r4 with mech. lockup
electric fuel pump, a combination valve for brakes mine was gone with adjustment for rear disk.
New passager side wheel hub assem.
Trans cooler , Engine oil cooler new 28MT starter
Doghead solenoid relay
Push button for glow plugs
Humvee mech. Tach
GM4 tubro with auto meter pyro
new glass windshield, rear window,
two doors out of a junk yard
ect
still not road worthy
did I mention what a mistake it was to buy one?

Thats a nice find I would like to find a m1010 or m1028 that is not running for its axles

Here's mine after 10 months of ownership

Front diff service complete (thanks Westy for the words of wisdom)!! Hopefully the new-to-me seats will be back in tomorrow and I should be set till the next project. Oh that's right, I have everything I need to swap out the fuel filter with a spin-on but I'll save that for another cooler day. IT'S MILLER TIME!!

WoW ! sixb keep us updated on what you do to your truck. Can we call it that now?

Hi guys,

I did some TLC on my M1009 today, simple stuff, but needed to be done:
Cleaned the battery posts & battery cable connectors of corrosion.
Added some new "NCP-2" corrosion preventative treated battery terminal protectors to the battery posts.
Cleaned the tops of the batteries before putting it all back together.
Removed a broken battery hold-down bolt, to get ready to put in a new one. (As soon as I find one??)
Added 2 quarts of Shell Rotella T Diesel motor oil.
Also, reattached the connections for the fog lights, so they will work again. (had to disconnect them awhile ago)

And just for the heck of it, I have attached a photo of me working on it.
Enjoy...

Good night,

CJ

Well Today i did the normal tlc to the cucv.Im sure all of ya can vouch for this I have sense learned that the small things reap bigger rewards when u do it the right way lol as u know im sure all of u have been thru the electrical on these trucks they can be a pain but with some patience be a god send im slowly correcting things to the best of my knowledge and what i have seen on other trucks (Thanks to Lavarock and aboonski yall rock )and a few other friends engulfed in this hobby

1st 2 Brand new 1000 ca 800 cca Batterys
2nd Cleaned and put 4 new battery clamps
3rd Tightened up connections
4th Found out with out 12 volts the truck want crank lol long story i really feel like an idiot
5th Put the plastic covers on the 24 volt block on the pass side fire wall really made a clean look im so impressed
6th Got a new dash cluster which im gong to clean up really good new bulbs clean contacts the works when i get time

The cucv m1008 is so much easier to crank now the truck has guts now its amazing what the right power can do

Fixed the speedometer. Cable just had to be pushed back in under the dash. Works fine now.

Got the horn working. When I got the truck the horn was unplugged. When I plugged it in, it wouldn't stop. Had to remove the diode from behind the horn relay. Horn fixed. No problem thanks to this site.

Now on to the wipers. Only worked on low speed and slow until I removed the 3 capacitors, and now low speed works fine but still no high speed. I'll dig into that some evening this week.

Seats are DONE!!! What to do next?!?!?! Oh yeah, rear main seal, transfer case output shaft seal, tranny flush and filter, radiator flush, Do-It-Myself camo paint job, replace the rear bench seat, door pins..........

BTW the seats are out of a Pontiac Vibe (don't know the year) and are REALLY comfy! The best part, as you can see in one of the pics, is that the seat belt buckle is built into the seat so no more buckle laying on the floor!!!! YEAH!!

I put new positive battery cables on the truck and a new front battery. next is swap out new alt with the emergency/ back up alt i need to properly secure them though(the battery's) then new front diff protection and fix my high steer.

put a ground strap from the frame to the cab, which fixed my wipers!! ordered a lift pump, gonna put it in tomorrow.

OR you could have purchased the correct aftermarket part/assembly

sirleaksalot said:

I did a thread on painting my rims and should have put it over here.
anywho, I did that today as well as blocked of that stupid fuel pressure sensor hole. we will see if that fixes the starting trouble after it sits for a few hours. I hope that is it.

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If all else fails replace the fuel filter assembly with the aftermarket base that has no fuel pressure sensor for the retarded military STE BS
http://www.oem-surplus.com
scroll down
number is 12471725
YOUR PRICE: $54.99
Individual S/H: $12.88
This is simple easy Sheet - order and install it!

1st thing I did

83k30 said:

put a ground strap from the frame to the cab, which fixed my wipers!! ordered a lift pump, gonna put it in tomorrow.

Click to expand...

1st thing I did was replace the Fuel Lift - "Feed Pump"

Then I had the IP = Injection Pump Rebuilt at a reputible Stanadyne Dealer.

Run like a rapp** Ape Now

Replaced the batteries and Glow Plugs. Batts were upgraded to 880 CCA each. Went with the AC Delco 60G's for the GP's. Discovered the reason why The Beast, '86 M1008, wouldn't start this morning. The two rear-most (of course) GP's were swollen and stuck. Got the passenger side one out by prying, driver's side broke off inside. Had to pull the injector to retrieve. Shop Vac didn't work, needle-nose did. Also discovered that the second back GP on driver's side wasn't connected, replaced connector. BTW: the two swollen GP's were Wellman's, the rest had been replaced with AC Delco's and all of those came out nice and easy. I now see why the previous owner just left the two swollen plugs in, they were in the rear and a major pain in the @#* to get to. She sure purrs now! Never seen a Diesel start that fast before! It now starts faster than my Honda Accord and my Thunderbird! Big thanks to all that have posted on these topics, wouldn't have been able to do it without Steel Soldiers!

I finally took the plunge and ordered the TreadWright Warden A/T's today now that they are back-ordered for 2-3 weeks!! Went with the non-kedge grips in the 31/10.50R15 size. I'm going to be doing more hauling than 4 wheelin' so I figured the A/T's were a better choice for me. Decided against the kedge grip due to the fact that "MONGO" isn't my DD and probably won't be seeing a terrible amount of snow/ice. Let the waiting begin. Kinda like GL but MUCH quicker I hope!