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24V pumping unit for transferring WMO?
- Thread starter TexAndy
- Start date
85 RPM is really low. Which means either an expensive gear motor or you do all the reduction yourself with chains and sprockets or pulleys and belts. If you do it yourself, you're going to need alot more space.
I reduced a treadmill motor down to around 20 rpm, but I had to turn an 18" wooden pulley on a lathe to do it. And that was in addition to 2 other reduction steps.
Even with the lathe set at it's lowest speed, the tip speed was so fast I had to resharpen chisels about every 8 - 10 seconds.
I reduced a treadmill motor down to around 20 rpm, but I had to turn an 18" wooden pulley on a lathe to do it. And that was in addition to 2 other reduction steps.
Even with the lathe set at it's lowest speed, the tip speed was so fast I had to resharpen chisels about every 8 - 10 seconds.
Hammer
Well-known member
To answer the original question, the transfer pump from those fuel station things will pump WMO like a mad man!
I have one, without the big tanks, just the 24v pump setup. It will pump insane amounts of fluid, and make an equally insane mess, all in a matter of moments.
BUT, they can be a PITA to prime.
If you can pump from the bottom of a tote, or something else like that with a valve at the bottom, then this pump works excellent. But they are very poor at self priming with the heavier WMO.
They can do a fair job at priming with thin fluids like gas, diesel, water, etc. The little hand pump helps, but you have to prime a LOT of the line before the pump will keep the prime on thicker fluids. Otherwise it cavitates too much.
Btw, once it does have prime, it can pump a full tote of WMO in a couple short minutes!
That being said, unless you can EASILY prime it, they are only worth messing with if you are going to pump large amounts of fluids.
I do love mine though....
I have one, without the big tanks, just the 24v pump setup. It will pump insane amounts of fluid, and make an equally insane mess, all in a matter of moments.
BUT, they can be a PITA to prime.
If you can pump from the bottom of a tote, or something else like that with a valve at the bottom, then this pump works excellent. But they are very poor at self priming with the heavier WMO.
They can do a fair job at priming with thin fluids like gas, diesel, water, etc. The little hand pump helps, but you have to prime a LOT of the line before the pump will keep the prime on thicker fluids. Otherwise it cavitates too much.
Btw, once it does have prime, it can pump a full tote of WMO in a couple short minutes!
That being said, unless you can EASILY prime it, they are only worth messing with if you are going to pump large amounts of fluids.
I do love mine though....
Take pics of the pump and the motor especially. See if you can get a max amp draw off the motor data plate.
I'm going to make a WAG tho, and say that motor is probably 2hp. Which would make the switch something like 60 amp at 24 volts.
Or else it uses a smaller switch and power supply to control a relay.
I'm going to make a WAG tho, and say that motor is probably 2hp. Which would make the switch something like 60 amp at 24 volts.
Or else it uses a smaller switch and power supply to control a relay.
I thought an on/off switch was just two bare wires that you twist together . . .
Actually just touching them together would work but when dealing with fuel you might want to follow some of the OSHA guidelines.I thought an on/off switch was just two bare wires that you twist together . . .
islandguydon
Well-known member
i WOULD USE A 24V ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP WITH 10' 1/2" HOSES ON EACH SIDE.
Jtspendy
New member
Found a great source for electric motors, ordered the same one from the video for $48.00 total with tax and shipping. They also have 12V and 36V motors as well Scooter Parts, Scooter Battery, Scooter Charger | Monster Scooter Parts