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'84 M1009 - Won't crank - 12v Roscommon converted

dstang97

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A lot of people have problems when they convert. Most of the time they use a china starter that lasts a few months or so then quits. My advice and others will be to find a oem one,get it rebuilt then put it back to 95% oem.
 

Warthog

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His starter is an OEM rebuild. The previous owner (sheriff) started the convertion. Barrman and I helped him finish the Roscommon conversion. Many wires where butchered.
 
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I_Publius

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I'm about to start replacing all relays and electrical wiring on the beast... just to get her running again!!! ;(

It's probably something extremely simple that I'm overlooking....
 

Warthog

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just tried the paperclip trick with both purple wires..nothing...

I'll try a piece of wire...just for grins, and the solenoid trick.
Reviewing the issues.

With the starter relay removed, use a piece of wire (not a paper clip) and install between the two purple wires. Then turn the key.

With 12v at the purple/white wire and zero ohms on the purple wire going to the starter, you should be sending 12v to the starter solenoid when you turn the key (with the jumper installed)

You can test this with your voltmeter. Install the red lead at the purple wire at the starter and the black wire to ground. Turn the key and check the voltage reading.

E-01 - Starter system - Voltage check.gif
 

Warthog

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Let's also check the voltage at the starter itself.

Red lead on the big red wire and black to ground.

E-01 - Starter system - Voltage check2.gif
 

paladin1176

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Just out of curiosity have you tried jumping power directly from your battery to the starter to ensure that your hot wires are working? I have had to use a jumper cable on the trail to go from battery to starter terminal...but it works in a pinch.
 

I_Publius

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No, I haven't. In fact, I've never tried that before. Just hook it up like you would jump start your batteries? Red/black on battery and then red to starter solenoid and black to ground?
 

paladin1176

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No, I haven't. In fact, I've never tried that before. Just hook it up like you would jump start your batteries? Red/black on battery and then red to starter solenoid and black to ground?
Turn the key to the on position, run a hot wire from the battery down to your starter. Once you hit the positive pole on the starter it is going to engage the solenoid and try to start. Just be prepared to pull the cable off when it starts and REALLY avoid touching the frame by accident. I would suggest two people just in case.
 

Warthog

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You only need to crawl under the truck to test the voltage at the starter. No need to turn the key. Touch the red lead of the multimeter to the large terminal of the starter solenoid (with the battery cable) and the black lead of the multimeter to ground. You should read 12v

If you are checking the purple wire then all you need is a looooong jumper wire that attaches to the purple wire at the starter solenoid and runs up the the drivers seat. Attach the jumper to red lead of the multimeter and find a ground for the black lead. Turn the key to start and check your voltage reading. You should see 12v.

All of this is what I would be checking if I was there.
 
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Warthog

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That is the starter solenoid wire I replaced last fall. The sheriffs dept had cut the wire off and installed a remote starter switch. We decided to return it to stock and do away with the emote switch. Replaced the last 6-10" of the purple starter solenoid wire.

I didn't have any purple wire so I used blue. Looks like it was grounding out on the exhaust. That would cause an issue.
 
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