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88 A2C all the way home.

emmado22

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http://test.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/TM9-2320-361-34.pdf Check chapter 7.3 With that and Peter Bog's schematic, it should go pretty easy. The numbers on the wires of the schematic equate to the numbers on the metal tags on the wiring harness. Look on the back of the guages, the newer plastic guages USUALLY have the numbers to the wires that plug into it. For example, On the headlights... As listed on the schematic, wire #17 is the High Beam, . Look on the metal wire band, one will say 17. Thats the high beam wire. Connect #17 male to #17 female. Wire # 18 is the low beam. #78 is the ground. Connect the same #'s to the same numbers, and your good.

You should NEVER have a wire # connecting to a DIFFERENT wire #. For example, Dont connect male #4 to female #5. #4 male connects to #4 Female, Period.

Post some pics of what you have, either wires with connectors (and metal tags) on them, or hacked wires with no connectors/tags. The hacked wiring will be considerably more difficult to figure out, but not impossible. Hopefully you own a multimeter and 24V test light for that case.
 

emmado22

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That is nicknamed the "spider" harness. It supplies the ground to the Instrument Panel. Another good tip is to get some Di-Electric grease and put a little dab inside the connectors. It makes it MUCH easier to get them apart later on down the road.

The low air buzzer not working... You have a late model USAF truck, it has the brake warning light in the dash also. There is no known schematic for the split brakes system electrical harness, part # 5934093, NSN 2590-01-259-0285. Once you get all your dash guages plugged back in, you will have 2 "extra" wires, one male, one female left over. (These wires wont be listed in the schematic diagram in the TM, or the Peter Bog.) These 2 wires that "come from the left side of the dash, they are taped together, and the wire bands are # 127 and #167. These wires plug into the red BRAKE warning light in the center of the instrument panel, #67 and #27. This is one exception to the "dont plug in mismatched wire numbers" rule but for this harness is is OK.


If that doesnt fix the problem, you'll need to do some old fashioned troublshooting for the circut.


Check this thread, the 2nd post down for the info on the dual circut brakes. Print it out and keep it with your truck.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/46951-dual-circuit-brakes.html
 
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emmado22

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My truck and your truck are brothers.. Yours was built the next in line after mine was. They have consecutive serial #s... Neat. We might have to get togther for a family picture one day...
 

emmado22

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I'd be interested to know what some of the paperwork was that you found in your truck. Keep us posted on your rewiring and low air buzzer issues.
 

dpsmith

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My Air Force Deuce had the same battery's when I recovered it from Warner Robins AFB in 08. They are still holding up. So yours should charge up fine. Keep us posted on your progress.
 

emmado22

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I updated my wiring info post a few posts back. I found the wire #'s that are for the red brake warning light in the center of the dash.
 

greenjeepster

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I'd be interested to know what some of the paperwork was that you found in your truck. Keep us posted on your rewiring and low air buzzer issues.
I have sheet titled "LTI"

It has the vehicle ID number on it and a W/O number.

Dated 9 Dec 2009
Mechanic 31-SSgt Davis
Reason: DRMO

It is a little dirty, but I plan to keep it with the truck for whom ever inherits the truck later on. Would be nice to have if anybody ever does a resto on it.

Also found the Packing list for the 2.5 ton tool kit, complete with NSN numbers for everything... I plan to use it to put the complete tool kit back together.
 

DieselBob

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The light didn't fix the buzzer. I wonder if the air gauge has to be plugged back in, or if all the gauges need to be wired to complete the circuit?
Two things come to mind. Does wire #85 at the low pressure switch have voltage when the acc switch is on and is the pressure in the air system below 60 psi.
 
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