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Another not starting post.

CUCVLOVER

Active member
From what I hear it can be a job.

Note/disclaimer: I have never rebuilt a head I'm just going off some info from my dad, uncle, Cuz, who have all been around and built engines for a long time, a few reputatable machanics, and a Chilton book.
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
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You can normally save a lot pulling it yourself. Most shops that pull them send them to an automotive machine shop that does the actual work on it. check your area for a machine shop to rebuild just the head. It does not take that much time to get it off but in mechanic hours it adds up fast.
Putting it back on you want to take a little more time but can be done in a weekend. I would recommend doing both sides.
Doing the take off and put back yourself will save you more than enough to pay for both sides.

Pulling it yourself gives you the opportunity to spend nothing if the head is determined to be trash. You can then spend that money on a good used one.


Rich
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
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You can normally save a lot pulling it yourself. Most shops that pull them send them to an automotive machine shop that does the actual work on it. check your area for a machine shop to rebuild just the head. It does not take that much time to get it off but in mechanic hours it adds up fast.

^^^^ THIS ^^^^


Very few automotive shops actually do rebuilding in house. Head, engine, whatever, find whoever in town does the actual rebuilding work, and go to them directly. Pull it yourself and save a bunch of money, plus you get to talk to the horse's mouth directly about any problems that may come up, instead of getting it relayed (and garbled) going through a middleman.

Oh, and no middleman markup on the rebuilding work and parts.

Much mo' bettah! :beer:
 

txhunter27

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Well I haven't updated in a week or so. I ordered a rebuilt head and pulled my old one off last night. Well... it's gonna need more than a head. So now it's decision time. Do I find a 6.2 to drop in it, a 6.5 or a cummins?
uploadfromtaptalk1428763103076.jpg
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
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Schertz TX
Looks like a leaky injector caused piston overheating which ate the piston causing low compression. If the cylinder is good, replace piston and all 8 injectors. Also, might be worth a ring job on the other 7 Pistons.
 

CUCVLOVER

Active member
OK. I'm on mobile so the pic is a little small for me.
Anyway. If the block is good you could get a replacement rod and piston and just change that in until you either rebuild that motor, or find a new/new to you Cummins, or gasser.
 

txhunter27

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Well I'd have to pull the motor to do a ring job or change that piston. If that motor comes out it's not going back in. Do you think it's bad enough to not put the new head on and see What happens
 

AECS

Member
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Location
Munford, TN
You can do that in the truck, easier if the motor is already out, but it can be done.

My dad owned a machine shop when I was a kid. I rebuilt my first 350 at 12 years old. It is not hard, but the machinery and tooling is big, and expensive. You can tear it all apart your self, farm it out for the steam clean and machine work and assemble yourself.

Machine work is as follows:

grind cam and crank if needed,
align bore crank and cam journals if needed.
surface heads and block if needed
bore cylinders if needed
hone big and small ends of rods
3 angle valve job

Order a rebuild kit, ensure it has all gaskets, rings, new pistons, rod, cam, and main bearings, wrist pins, lifters, push rods, freeze plugs, oil pump, and water water pump. Reassemble following the order and torques in the Chiltons manual. Only special tools you should need are a torque wrench, and a ring compressor to install the pistons.

You will need the final dimensions after machine work to get the right pistons, rings, and bearings as machine work will change the dimensions. Assemble using non detergent 30W oil, make sure you pre fill the hydraulic lifters...

It isn't cheap, the machine work is time consuming, the equipment is huge so the shop pays for a lot of floor space, expensive so there is big bills, and journeyman machinists make much more than auto shop mechanics hourly wage. The machine bill will be your biggest expense. I would say 15-20 hours in total, it has been 30 years but even back then dad got about 80-90 an hour.

This is not a step by step how to, so if I missed something don't get to mad at me.
 
Last edited:

richingalveston

Well-known member
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Location
galveston/Texas
If you want to run that motor a little longer, replace the one piston, hone the cylinder good. Put the new head on it and go. You will probably be a little low on compression in that cylinder.
If you ultimately want another motor, see if you can return or sell the new head. Sell anything good on that motor and give the rest to a good home.
Go get the motor you want.

To make that 6.2 live a happy long life you will probably spend 2k.

Go punch the guy right in the mouth, that told you it was a running unit when you bought it.
 

CUCVLOVER

Active member
Oh... The pic is side ways I couldn't tell at first.

I think your key switch isn't coming back all the way.
Check your ignition powered lugs in the fuse panel.
That will help to tell you if the switch is turning anything completely off.
 
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