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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
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JohnnyReb
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I certainly will not seek to offend the 5 tonners on this forum, but IMHO, I recommend the deuce. The 5 ton is in many ways simply a larger version of the 2.5 ton. Just for fun and some offroading, the deuce is lighter, easier to handle and doesn't require an upgrade on your license in most states.
The deuce is kind of a step up from a 1 ton pickup in many ways. The 5 tonner is a true big rig.... I like both trucks very much and they each have their charms....but I would start small.
The deuce is kind of a step up from a 1 ton pickup in many ways. The 5 tonner is a true big rig.... I like both trucks very much and they each have their charms....but I would start small.
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Here's an idea I've had for quite a while! Bob a 5 ton! Another thought for your concept of the extended cab. Standard 5 tonner cargos have a 14' bed. You could very easily swap on a 12' deuce bed to give you 2 feet for your cab mods. Did I mention 5 tonner have PS?
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After changing tires on a 2 1/2 ton truck with 6 lugs, image having to do 10 lugs, its quite a work out. I would stick with the duece. Everything on a 5 ton is bigger and heavier and not as easy to lug around. Just something to think about when things break or wear out. Although I would love to have a 5 ton.
Towerguy1
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Lots of bobed deuces use an M105A2 trailer bed (about 9 feet) to replace the truck bed. The covers are stock for the trailer and it looks good.
rmgill
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Having owned a 5 ton (M813A1) and a Deuce now, I can speak with some authority. Get a deuce first. 5 Tons are a handful. They are easier to drive, but they're just so much larger. 5 Tons really do need a Soldier B for a lot of tasks like bleeding the fuel system.
The USMC M813A1s have a few extra features, Detroit Lockers in the rear, fording kits and ISO beds. But they really are BIG trucks.
The USMC M813A1s have a few extra features, Detroit Lockers in the rear, fording kits and ISO beds. But they really are BIG trucks.
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Boatcarpenter
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The air-upgraded Deuces have a compressor with one outlet under the dash in the cab. You can also adapt a gladhand to get air off the rear of the truck.
rmgill
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Thing about the 5 tons is that they're so much bigger underneath that you can more or less sit up under them and service them with out having to use a crawler to get under them. I'm 5'11 and I had no trouble getting under my 5 ton and sitting up with a flashlight to look and inspect things.
Deuces are lower to the ground and have less space between the frame rails with all the driveline components. To get to most things, you're going to be sitting at an angle. One of those high back creepers is ideal.
Under my 5 ton, I was able to more or less high crawl from the back to the front, sitting under it to reach most of the grease fittings. Can't do that on the deuce. Still, a creeper would make the deuce easier on rickety old pharte joints.
Deuces are lower to the ground and have less space between the frame rails with all the driveline components. To get to most things, you're going to be sitting at an angle. One of those high back creepers is ideal.
Under my 5 ton, I was able to more or less high crawl from the back to the front, sitting under it to reach most of the grease fittings. Can't do that on the deuce. Still, a creeper would make the deuce easier on rickety old pharte joints.
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hdfsd
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Well, from another guy that has had both 2-1/2 tonners and 5-tonners, asnd many years of time in U.S. MV's of other kinds....
All the before comments regarding the 2-1/2's vs 5 t's are applicable. Especially the part about the 5t's being just plain big trucks. (Yes ten lugs at 450 Ft-lb and 251# each can make you talk to yourself.)
The 2-1/2 is a much more "civilized" truck. Big, tough, off roadable, almost indestructable, fun and realistically sized. They go right at 13,000 pounds...the 5t is 9,000 on just the front axle........
Both have compressed air system for brake boosting, the air-o-matic makes the 2-1/2 just about as easy to steer as the PS on the 5t. Again, no CDL required for the 2-1/2. There is virtually nothing that the 5t has that is not standard on the 2-1/2 (not counting PS). If you got with the M-35 variants the cabs and all options there are the same as the 5t, if you go with an older GMC such as a 211 then it is a different case, they hava auto transmissions, bigger cabs, heaver drivelines and only 302 gas engines.
Really, the 2-1/2 t is a much better candidate for modifications, and you can still sit-up under it to do most service.
Squirt Truck(er)
All the before comments regarding the 2-1/2's vs 5 t's are applicable. Especially the part about the 5t's being just plain big trucks. (Yes ten lugs at 450 Ft-lb and 251# each can make you talk to yourself.)
The 2-1/2 is a much more "civilized" truck. Big, tough, off roadable, almost indestructable, fun and realistically sized. They go right at 13,000 pounds...the 5t is 9,000 on just the front axle........
Both have compressed air system for brake boosting, the air-o-matic makes the 2-1/2 just about as easy to steer as the PS on the 5t. Again, no CDL required for the 2-1/2. There is virtually nothing that the 5t has that is not standard on the 2-1/2 (not counting PS). If you got with the M-35 variants the cabs and all options there are the same as the 5t, if you go with an older GMC such as a 211 then it is a different case, they hava auto transmissions, bigger cabs, heaver drivelines and only 302 gas engines.
Really, the 2-1/2 t is a much better candidate for modifications, and you can still sit-up under it to do most service.
Squirt Truck(er)
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ghdh
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The 2-1/2 t transfers came as mechanical with a sprag drive for the front axle or as "air" shifted, or just manual engagement of front axle. All the 5t (M-39, M-800) had air shifted front axles with sprag drives.
There are arguments on both sides for the 2-1/2t transfers, the sprags were somewhat troubnlesome, but mostly an adjustment issue, at any rate there is an aftermarket fix called a "REB" kit that converts it to manual with a lever and they work great. Both are two speed and fully sychronized, you can split gears but it is a real pain unless heavy loaded. In general the air shift case on the 2-1/2t gives less trouble because it needs less attention than the original.
Squirt_Truck
There are arguments on both sides for the 2-1/2t transfers, the sprags were somewhat troubnlesome, but mostly an adjustment issue, at any rate there is an aftermarket fix called a "REB" kit that converts it to manual with a lever and they work great. Both are two speed and fully sychronized, you can split gears but it is a real pain unless heavy loaded. In general the air shift case on the 2-1/2t gives less trouble because it needs less attention than the original.
Squirt_Truck
FSBruva
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Transfer case itself is manual, only. Maybe you are referring to how to engage the front axle? In that case, there are three options:
1 - Original sprague setup - this leaves the front axle partially engaged at all times, and will fully engaged if it "senses" that the rear wheels are moving more than the fronts. The problem with this setup is that it requires that the transmission always be started in 1st gear. However, as most of us know, the usual practice with an empty deuce is to start in 2nd. So with this being the case, most spragues are busted, and need replacement/repair
2 - Air-shift - this fully engages and disengages the front axle with the assistance of a pneumatic cylinder. No real cons with this one except that if you can't keep pressure, you can't keep front axle (think going off road and busting an airline, and then being stuck with no front axle).
3 - REB shift kit - this is a modification to the sprague transfer that allows a manually controlled lever in the floor of the cab to engage or disengage the front axle. Because this option is a modification of the sprague case, it is sometimes the better option for a busted sprague mechanism. Trying to convert from a sprague to an airshift is pretty hard.
Just had to re-login.. looks like squirt truck just beat me to the punch... oh well, i'll leave the long-winded version up for critique.
Matt
1 - Original sprague setup - this leaves the front axle partially engaged at all times, and will fully engaged if it "senses" that the rear wheels are moving more than the fronts. The problem with this setup is that it requires that the transmission always be started in 1st gear. However, as most of us know, the usual practice with an empty deuce is to start in 2nd. So with this being the case, most spragues are busted, and need replacement/repair
2 - Air-shift - this fully engages and disengages the front axle with the assistance of a pneumatic cylinder. No real cons with this one except that if you can't keep pressure, you can't keep front axle (think going off road and busting an airline, and then being stuck with no front axle).
3 - REB shift kit - this is a modification to the sprague transfer that allows a manually controlled lever in the floor of the cab to engage or disengage the front axle. Because this option is a modification of the sprague case, it is sometimes the better option for a busted sprague mechanism. Trying to convert from a sprague to an airshift is pretty hard.
Just had to re-login.. looks like squirt truck just beat me to the punch... oh well, i'll leave the long-winded version up for critique.
Matt
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vbcvvb
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NO question is stupid, never be afraid to ask, we all learned by asking questions, and we will help all that we can
ps, i brought my m819 fron dave newmem at eastern sulplus, i think i got a good deal
ps, i brought my m819 fron dave newmem at eastern sulplus, i think i got a good deal
JasonS
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FYI. You do not have to start in 1st gear with the sprag transfer case.
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fgddggddg
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does it have a walking beam suspenstion, i beleave this truck was there when i bought the 819, it was there when i looked at the 819, only it had a heavy steel plade for the bed, the transfer pto and the suspenstion make me beleave that it started out as a wrecker, though the front winch is not a stock one
mangus580
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Yes and no. If you have been in reverse, you should put it in first before you take off in any other forward gear. If you dont, the sprag doesnt change directions, and I think that means trouble.JasonS said: