Contemplating a Bobber! To do or not to do that is the question!

[350TacoZilla]

sorry no I sold axles to friend before I ever got the calipers on, i can give you part # and info on the rotors. I had a local machine shop open up the inside hole on rotor to fit over hub and then drilled hub from backside and threaded holes to bolt rotor on.

1. napa NB 4885858
   
   # of Bolt Holes : 10
   Bolt Circle Diameter : 7.25"
   Brake Rotor Diameter : 15.37"
   Brake Rotor Discard Thickness : 1.42"
   Brake Rotor Thickness New : 1.54"
   Brake Rotor Type : Disc Brake Rotor Only
   Center Hole Diameter : 6"
   Height : 3.4"
   Maximum Lateral Runout : .004"
   Mounting Type : Type L - Rotor Only. The Rotor Is Mounted Inboard Of The Hub. The Hub & Rotor Sections Are Bolted Together. Replace The Complete Assembly If Hub Flange Is Bent Or Damaged. See Diagram For More Information.
   Vented / Solid : Vented
   
   
   
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[Section8]

Looks good! I have been looking for an exploded view of the hub assembly to design my own disc brake set up. The only one I have found though is a hub assembly in the TM's that is a cross section instead of an exploded parts assembly view.
I also researched rotors and Ifound ones from a ford 700 parts number from napa 4886056, Raybestos 8517.
Rear rotorsare Napa 85863, Raybestos 8520.
These rotors have the 6 on 8.75 bolt pattern. So the only mods may have to be trimming the centre spindle hole to fit.
My question to all is when removing the drum assembly from the hub does this not expose the inner spindle of the axle?
Also if any one has a exploded view diaghram of the hub assemblies that would be great!!!
Opinions and thoughts always welcome.

 

[350TacoZilla]

yeah I had looked into those since alot of rockwell guys use them but the rotors would sit back from hub almost 6" and run into the knuckle of the gm 2.5T axles not to mention you would have to keep the hubs flipped out which wouldn't sit the tires under the body of a normal pickup.

when you remove the drum backing plate you have to use new shorter bolts to attach the spindle to knuckle, your hub has a seal at the very back that rides in same place as before so spindle is still sealed . I think best thing to do (I had planned on doing it myself) is to cut down one of the stock backing plates to work with the disks just like the stone gaurds on stock disk brake trucks so its still protected and the seal doesnt have to do all the work.

 

[Section8]

You may be thinking of the rear rotors they are manufactured with an almost 6inch recess from the hub mount. The front rotors are manufactured the same as what your picture had shown. Just 6 bolt instead of 10.

 

[Section8]

Why is it when you haven't got a dollar to your name you find things you would normally buy in a heart beat!
Found on a web site a 53 M211 retro fitted bush fire truck.
This rig looks beautiful gloss white and completely redone including a engine upgrade!! This thing has a CAT engine and 4 speed auto. New brakes and rubber on all ten.
The best things is it is for sale for 4500 bucks!!!
To bad I don't have a pot to piss in other wise I would buy it in a second.
Sorry I can't find a way to post the listing. Gonna try and post the pic.

 

[Section8]

View attachment 403859
Located on the coast of British Columbia, Delta region. No leaks or dents.
Stan this right in your neighbor hood!!

 

[Section8]

Update time!!
After selling my chevy 1 ton dually, 24 foot holiday trailer and a horse, I managed to save $100 bucks!
Gonna use it to buy a pail of 80/90 weight gear oil for my axles.
It isn't much but thats all I can do.
At least there will be fresh oil in the diffs.
Hey its only been close to a year and selling things to be able to get to it but at least I got to it!

 

[Section8]

Well dang it!!
A pail of 80/90 is over a hundred bucks after enviroment levy tax and other taxes!!
Only managed to buy 3 Jugs of 4 litres.
Which is about half of the total volume needed for all three axles.
So I will have to see about trying to save another hundred bucks! Lol!

 

[m1010plowboy]

It isn't much but thats all I can do.

That's how you do it. One day I had enough time to remove 1 box bolt. That's what I did.

Good to see you keeping at it! Do you know what the truck will look like when it's finished yet?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7ndhKsZ6NE

 

[Section8]

Thanks Dave!
I was totaly bummed to not even get enough 80/90 for all three axles but hey what can you do when things are tight money wise.
I am still hoping to bang away at the truck (usually head on fender).
My wife gets mad at me every time I try to sell it saying things like I don't do anything for myself, doesn't cost anything for it to sit and nobody wants it but you!! LOL!!
I have looked at that youtube clip lots!!
That's kind of what I would like but extended cab or crew cab with a bit of a chop top maybe, 4 inches to six out of the height. Of course that part is a BIG maybe!!
I will see how doing the extended cab or crew cab goes first before altering things further in that regard.
I am also a LOOOOONG way away from even thinking about that since I haven't even gotten the 6BT locked in. I am torn on how to mount it and don't trust my welding ability for fabrication of that important a piece and can't afford to buy second generation motor mounts for the 6BT, which I think would work better,at the moment. Heck took a long time just to get HALF the gear oil for the axles!! Hahahahaha!
Maybe once all of our business equipment finally leaves the basement, closed the business after going broke to keep our employees paid till contract end, that our competitors bought, I will start bringing body pannels in for clean up/ removal of ugly blue paint.
Till then its dream and wish while at work syndrome for me!
On a side note I learned a couple guys I work with at the lumber mill have MV's.
One guy owns an Iltis and the other a heavy mechanic restored a 1943 CMP.

 

[Section8]

Update time again.
Well a bit of a positive note. Found a fella close buy that is willing to trade my radiator, from the 92 dodge the new to me 6bt came out of, for one that will fit between my light buckets, since the dodge one is to big.
This is also the same fella who has 4 of the canadian 2 piece rims with some of the bolt holes cut out. Said he would sell them to me for 50 bucks a piece.
For 50 bucks a piece I was thinking to cut the old hub face out entirely and make some new ones out of flat 1/2 inch plate. Have them made with all the bolt holes of the two pieces to hold the plate in and maybe weld the plate to?
Thoughts on this?!!?
He also has 5 ton springs that I inquired about but as soon as I told him my intent to bob the rig he flat out said NO they are to heavy and wouldn't sell them if that's what I was gonna do with them. He said to use 2.5 ton springs. I said it wouldn't be strong enough for the rear to carry any load other than the box and tools that I plan to put on it.
Again thoughts on this!?!!? I know M35a2 bobbers use 5 ton springs why couldn't I?
I might also break down eventually and buy some house paint and paint over that darn robins egg blue!! I wasted 30 bucks buying a nylon brush attachment for my drill that was supposed to strip the paint off of anything! All it ended up doing is brushing off the flaking paint and lightly scratch and buff the rest!!!
I am a step from bankrupcy and can ill aford to waste money on things that don't do as they are sold to do! Can you sense my displeasure!
Any way sound off on your thoughts as usual! I take serious note of it all and store it in the ol gray matter!

 

[Section8]

Boy am I feeling good!!
I traded that 92 dodge radiator for my 6BT, which was to big, for the one the old fella had laying around his yard. He said it was out of an old international, so he thinks.
I took some measurments thinking it might work between my light buckets with a little light modification and then fabing up the grill glyde system I told Gunfreak about in he build.
Boy was I surprised to find that once I got it home that I will only need to shave 1/4 of an inch in over all width from the radiators supports to get it to slide right into the old radiator housing of the truck!!!! I darn near peed my pants in surprise and sheer delight as finally something positive worked out for me on this!!
Another added bonus is that the lower hose outlet of the radiator is on the same side as the original radiator bucket!!! Doin the happy dance through all of this!!
Then on top of all of this it was 26 degrees celcius here.
I took full advantage of this and grabbed the grinder with wire brush and claned the frame as best as I could, till the wire brush blew apart!! Insert cussin here!!
After the wire wheel blew apart which was thankfull at the end of my clean up, I dug out the semi gloss black rust paint, bought back in november I think, and slathered it all over the fram and fuel tank!
I have to say it looks awesome!! I know its not OD green but it still looks sexy!!
I know I can get white in the same kind of paint so I want to see if I can get it colored OD and do the cab. This paint is thick and goes a long way!! I did the whole outside of the frame and the top plus spring packs front and rear and still have half a can to finish the inside of the frame and the axles!
As you can tell I am super excited and pleased with the fact that I made some actual progress on the truck!!
Now if only I could get the darn pictures to load on the site!!!

 

[cumminsbandit]

Its good to see that you keep chuggin away at your project! Seems like you have about as much time to work on your truck as i do mine... feels like they will never get finished some days. Just spent the last hour reading this thread and seems that you have fallen on all of the same problems that i have as i am doing the same swap to mine! I have a 12 valve cummins out of a 95 dodge with a nv4500 2wd trans. This works perfect! No cutting the firewall, moving t-case, or anything. Have about 3/4" between the engine and firewall and room for electric fans on the stock radiator! Just take your time with the motor mounts and it all works. Me and a friend fabed up the mounts with the cardboard cutout method. Works very well! Just had my 5" drive shaft made up but, havent had time to try putting it in yet.

I have done the calculations on the final drive speeds and have found that with the .73 OD trans with 6.11's and 40" tall tires it should do about 80mph at 3200rpm's witch is the governed speed! I NEVER have the want or need to run it this fast but this is what i have come up with. I would have to say i wouldn't try using any kind of auto trannys behind the cummins. I have lost all hope for automatic transmissions and gasoline engines! Mite just be me but, you CANNOT beat a cummins with a stick!!!! Most reliable and strongest combination!

I will try and take some pics of my engine sitting in the truck tomorrow hopefully! This gets me in the mood to start on mine again!

When you get her up and running and want more ponies out of it i'd be happy to walk you threw it! Nothin like a little smoke!!!

 

[Section8]

Cumminsbandit, did you weld the frame side mounts??
I have been trying like mad to come up with a way to aviod welding on the frame since there are so many arguements on this site about whether or not to weld on the frame.
My thoughts were to make a frame sleeve of types that bolts to the frame for my mounts. That way I can pull it out at any time in the future if I need to replace a rear seal or the entire engine/ tranny.
Also I am not sure if you just made a typing error or not but it is 6.17 gearing in the axles so this may change your math a little or not?!
I want to get 5.43 gears someday( maybe)!!
Thoughts/ opinions as usual people!!

 

[cumminsbandit]

oops!... yeah your right on the ratio. I've been off topic too long I guess. I didn't weld on the frame at all but, that doesn't mean I wouldn't if I had to. It's not like an over the road semi where you're dealing with the heavy loads and high speeds. Chances are you'll never put 20k miles on your truck (unless your a real die-hard) and never use it hard enough to hurt the frame by making a few good welds on it.

All I made was an arm-like mount that bolted to the factory motor mount holes in the block and extended to over the factory truck mount holes and bought four (2 for each side) 2" round 1" high rubber mounts from the parts store for like $1.50 each. I placed a rubber (doughnut) under and above the truck mount and set the weight of the engine on top of that and ran a bolt threw it all with a lock nut. I did weld a small plate to the truck mount just to make for a non-sloppy fit for the bolt... almost forgot I did that ha ha.

I looked for a picture but seems I didn't take any of them. Its supposed to rain here in the next couple days, Ill see if I can get some good pics of my engine compartment for ya!

 

[Section8]

Yahooooo!!
Picked up my cummins motor mounts from a co-worker today. 50 bucks for both!! Normally they are 190 bucks a piece brand new from the dodge dealership.
They are used but look awesome and clean.
So excited!! Now I just have to scavange some channel iron to make my frame mounts and I am laughin!
Well maybe not laughin but at least able to lock the motor down for once!!
Still need to see if I can swap out my 5 speed 4x4 standard tranny for an automatic 2 wheel drive.
Need to find out the length of a 2wd tranny for final fit ment of the engine!
Hopefully more to come.
Still trying to figure out the picture thing. This is all off of my smart phone since I don't have a computer with internet. Big bucks to get that in my neck of the woods.

 

[cumminsbandit]

I have to say, it is such a relief after you get the engine sitting where its going to stay!

So what are your plans for wiring the interior of the truck? Is the original wiring ok yet? Are you going to rewire it? Converting to 12v?

 

[Section8]

I am going to have to get one of those universal 12 volt wiring harnesses or see if a pick a part/ wrecking yard has one from a 89-92 dodge pickup with the same engine.
Either way figuring to spent the same on either one at about 150 bucks. UGH!
All of the original 24 volt wiring in my rig was stripped for going to the scrap yard. They took everything copper and drained all fluids to get ready to cut it up.
I got real lucky in the fact that enough drain plugs were left rolling around on the floor board to plug the axles and the transfercase. The old engine was locked and wasn't a concern even though the tranny is most likely still in great shape.
The motor could probably turn over if someone had the time and wanted to tear it down. I have neither the time nor the desire to accomplish that.
I am going to be reaching the very limits of my skills with this as it is! LOL!
I want to get her moving this year one way or another!!!

 

[350TacoZilla]

glad it is coming together for you, I also wish I was closer to you to get that 4x4 trans from ya. The 2wd ones are plentiful around here but 4x4 ones have been snatched up.

 

[cumminsbandit]

http://www.kwikwire.com/

Take a look at what these guys have to offer. I'm going to go with something they have, not sure witch rout yet...