CUCV2/CUCV-II Owners, post pics and info of your truck

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Another Ahab

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Picked up a CUCV II today. Since they're so rare I didn't have much choice in condition. It's going to need a lot of metal work and a donor parts car, but at least it runs and has a title.
Nice score!

You saw it up close, so you know about the metal work needed.

But from the pic, the sheetmetal looks good-to-great, where are the problem areas?
 

hrbergeron

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Nice score!
You saw it up close, so you know about the metal work needed.
But from the pic, the sheetmetal looks good-to-great, where are the problem areas?
Just like a woman, I can shave off 100lbs with the right camera angles. I also shaved off 100 lbs of rusted sheet metal with my pressure washer.
 

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hrbergeron

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Picked up another CUCV II. Ex-Air Force vehicle. It's a very clean tahoe but is missing most of the CUCV II stuff, so I'm going to combine parts from my other CUCV II with this one to make a solid vehicle. I also will be repainting it to 383 green. My other CUCV II is just too far gone for the amount of time that I would need to put into it. After I take off the parts I want I'll sell the old one.

If anyone who has a CUCV II with the 24v system could contact me, I would appreciate it. I am also looking for the TMs for a CUCV II, the only ones I have found are for an LSSV and there ae differences. I want to convert this one back to 24V so I can jump my other military vehicles if needed.
 

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Another Ahab

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Still trying to figure out how to reinstall the 24v system. The label is faded but the relay on the left is marked "24V".
You can never be sure any label is accurate, but the thought there is sure helpful:

- Labelling what is going on for the "next guy", that has to deal with the install
 

NDT

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Still trying to figure out how to reinstall the 24v system. I found these two relays and one disconnected wire. Haven't traced where it goes yet, put a multimeter on it and there is no voltage. The label is faded but the relay on the left is marked "24V".
Read Stonepicker1 ancient posts about this subject. There is a 12/24 converter that is (was) mounted somewhere. It charges the second battery when a voltage signal tells it the ignition is on. Also need a 24 volt starter.
 

hrbergeron

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Got the bumper and shackle mounts off my donor cucv ii. While looking at the wiring it may still be wired for 24 volts and the starter might be 24v but currently supplied with 12v. Only one battery is in the vehicle. Since it's just a small 5.7L gas engine, it doesn't take much to turn over and start.
 

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Monkeyboyarmy

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Converters for the blazers were behind the panel on the right rear I think. The pickups had them behind the seat. Mine was missing and I picked one up on the _bay that was a takeout from newer jeeps that were being used over seas.
 

hrbergeron

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Converters for the blazers were behind the panel on the right rear I think. The pickups had them behind the seat. Mine was missing and I picked one up on the _bay that was a takeout from newer jeeps that were being used over seas.
Do you have a part number for the converter? According to the CUCV II reference manual that was in my glovebox, the converter behind the seat was only for a 24v radio power supply.
 

Monkeyboyarmy

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Search Vanner converter. It is SP00158-GEL. Good for 50 amps. Seams to work pretty good. I believe that it cuts on when the 12 volt side reaches about 14 volts. I'll see the volt gauge pulse while it cycles on and off.
 

hrbergeron

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I believe that it cuts on when the 12 volt side reaches about 14 volts. I'll see the volt gauge pulse while it cycles on and off.
Interesting. I have attached a picture of the manual I have and it shows a different model. The description also makes it sound like the main purpose of the of the power supply is to power a radio instead of charging the 24v battery system.
 

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