• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Deuce Halogen Headlight Upgrade

CGarbee

Well-known member
2,446
506
113
Location
Raleigh, NC
The connector (Dorman or other manufacturer) is a standard stock item, so you can actually pick them up at your local parts store in the lighting section if you don't order them with the rest of the parts...
 

Valence

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,135
605
113
Location
Davis County, UT
If you're wondering about the brightness of the HELLA headlights here's some research I did:

I had trouble finding the high-beam lumen output of the 100/90W 24v bulb (Hella P/N "XD24100/90"). But I did find the output for the 75/70W 24V.
Directly from Hella it is 1750 (see document page 14)
http://www.hella.com/hella-za/assets/media_global/HASA_Bulbs_Catalogue_2012_LRes.pdf

Or from 1000bulbs.com:
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/98664/EIKO-01010.html
75/70W is 1900/1205 lumens

Extrapolating that to 1000/90W would be ~2533.33 lumens for the 100w (or ~2333.33 lumens using Hella's rating for the 75/70 as a base)
 

wheelspinner

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,743
1,504
113
Location
North Carolina - FINALLY !
Had the Deuce out for a little R&R last night. I generally avoid night travel at almost all costs, but was late getting home. Realized just how BAD the stock lights really are. Ordered two complete sets for the Deuce and 923. Hopefully they are much better. Great info, although the bulbs went up $5 each since the last order was posted on here.
 

Valence

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,135
605
113
Location
Davis County, UT

gungearz

New member
1,719
4
0
Location
northwestern indiana
If you guys want the brightest replacement for the 9006 and 9007 bulbs. Phillips H1 and H2 bulbs (usually shipped from Germany), which are 110% dot legal with just a tiny bit of a mod... alls you have to do is "nip" a little off of the plastic tabs on the bulb with a pair of nail clipper...
Put them in my burb a year ago and they are the best I've had yet.. even better than the crappy Sylvania's you get at the parts store...
 

CGarbee

Well-known member
2,446
506
113
Location
Raleigh, NC
Running full tilt in any of my MVs, I can't outdrive my e-code Hella H4 lights with just the "standard" wattage 24volt burners 75/70...
I can easily stop in the area that is illuminated.
This includes the Cummins powered M37 (with the current gearing, it runs 80mph) although it does sport four wheel disc brakes... :)

I can outrun the stock wattages in the e-code Hella H4 lights in my car...but it goes a lot faster... :)
 

Valence

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,135
605
113
Location
Davis County, UT
For anyone who may care here, here's a quick photo diary of my install.

After taking a rock to one head light, I replaced both headlights with He.lla H4 24V 100/90W (HLA-H83140041) bulbs, adapted a Doorman 9003 socket, with rubber shell connectors from Erik's, to fit the stock wiring harness, and then a IPCW CWC-7006 7-inch plain round conversion headlight. I did have to buy longer Philips screws to secure the face of the headlight bucket back down.

----------

I've never had these type of headlights before (the H4s), but, of course, the glass light housing was design perfectly for them, It only goes in one way and firmly keeps the bulb in place.
2015-08-23 10.44.23.jpg 2015-08-23 10.44.40.jpg 2015-08-23 10.45.49.jpg

I sprayed a little bit of silicon on the rubber boot and it slid over the Hella light bub with ease.
2015-08-23 10.46.41.jpg

As you can see, the glass denotes proper orientation. "TOP"
2015-08-23 12.25.09.jpg

The only problem I had was that the new glass housing stuck out more than stock, and the stock bucket cover bolts were just too short. I had to replace all 3 bolts on both passenger and driver's side.
2015-08-23 12.50.11.jpg 2015-08-23 12.48.20.jpg

I removed about 1/2 of the plastic sheath on the socket cord, added Packard connectors on each wire. I also moved the crimped on wire numbers to the new socket plug.
FYI: I used this thread as a quick pin-out reference for wiring. Just be careful when viewing the pictures. One of the pin-outs is from the socket (plug) perspective, the other is from the H4 light bulb perspective (so they're left/right reversed).
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?34411-H4-Headlight-Conversion
2015-08-23 12.24.37.jpg

You can also see that these glass bulbs are more flat vs the more round front surface stock ones:
2015-08-25 20.07.38.jpg 2015-08-25 20.08.09.jpg

Final appearance:
2015-08-25 20.07.17.jpg
 
Last edited:

rustystud

Well-known member
9,071
2,387
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Zane, I should have warned you to buy a "ceramic" plug-in for the wires. I melted mine after converting to the "Hella" H4 bulbs. I'll try and find the place where I bought mine from.
 

Valence

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,135
605
113
Location
Davis County, UT
Zane, I should have warned you to buy a "ceramic" plug-in for the wires. I melted mine after converting to the "Hella" H4 bulbs. I'll try and find the place where I bought mine from.
Interesting. Is that just from the bulb getting so hot? I'm having trouble seeing how it'd melt as wouldn't the stock headlight have melted its wires too? It's all a very similar connection setup.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,071
2,387
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Interesting. Is that just from the bulb getting so hot? I'm having trouble seeing how it'd melt as wouldn't the stock headlight have melted its wires too? It's all a very similar connection setup.
The H4 bulbs produce some very intense heat. That is why you are never to touch the glass of the bulbs with your bare hands. My rubber ends melted right off ! After going to the "ceramic" ends I have had no problems. Sorry I haven't looked for the ceramic ends yet.
 

Valence

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,135
605
113
Location
Davis County, UT

andy3

Member
614
12
18
Location
Suwanee, Ga
If the 100W bible are drawing enough wattage to melt the ends, are you running too close to the capacity of a 40 year old wireing harness? 8.3amps?
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,071
2,387
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
If the 100W bible are drawing enough wattage to melt the ends, are you running too close to the capacity of a 40 year old wireing harness? 8.3amps?
No, the bulbs themselves run very hot. Like I said before there is a reason you are NOT suppose to touch the glass with your bare hands. The oil in your skin will heat up and burst the glass. If you don't believe me then take the bulb out of the lens and hold it with the lights on. You won't be holding it long !
There is a reason they make ceramic ends for the bulbs.
 
Last edited:

rustystud

Well-known member
9,071
2,387
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks