Exterior Latex/Acrylic House Paints

[SteveKuhn]

24087 Color Match Photos

Here are a couple of in progress photos of the Ben Moore P29 acrylic color formula for 24087 in my prior post above up against the Gillespie 24087 for comparison. Gillespie on steel; BM on wood.

 

[DoctorCheney223]

I went to both Lowe's and Home Depot to get "desert tan" from the codes provided in the initial post but both stores stated that the base paints are no longer carried (by either company). I picked up the Home Depot 383 mixture as the base paint is still in stock.

Does anybody have a new paint code for the 686 Desert Tan?

thanks,
Ron

 

[SteveKuhn]

I can provide one matched to Gillespie that you might like if you can use Benjamin Moore. Arvoe is much darker.

Would that help? I've heard that BM is an eastern brand.

Steve

 

[jdeoliveira74]

I went to both Lowe's and Home Depot to get "desert tan" from the codes provided in the initial post but both stores stated that the base paints are no longer carried (by either company). I picked up the Home Depot 383 mixture as the base paint is still in stock.

Does anybody have a new paint code for the 686 Desert Tan?

thanks,
Ron

So the home depot employees aren't always the brightest... I say that with the fact that I am a former Home depot store manager. With that said tell them to make it in the medium base instead of the pastel base. That the difference. They changed bases last year and did away with the pastel base and went to a medium base.
Hope that helps
Jon

 

[Hightechken]

A great thread! I have subscribed.

If anyone has WallyMart paint codes I would appreciate them being posted.

 

[Gunfreak25]

By the way, these paints DO protect and seal the metal against rust. I've found absolutely no difference between these house paints and the traditional alkyd enamels in the way of rust prevention. So for those small bare metal areas that will be hit with these paints, do not worry about rust bleed through. Spray away, this is good stuff. I chose to use real enamel on my trucks body parts, frame and undercarriage. But I am still using matched semi gloss Behr on small add on stuff. It works every bit as well and in some cases better once FULLY cured.

 

[mkcoen]

Okay I'm having poor results on my first go around. How do you guys mix the paint thin enough to spray but still thick enough that it doesn't sag like crazy? I'm going to have to sand my first batch down and start over.

 

[rlwm211]

My experience is as follows:

1) use an HVLP gun.

2) remove the little screen at the bottom of the port where the paint cup connects to the gun. Latex has bigger molecules than solvent based paint and it will not flow through the screen fast enough or evenly enough to allow you to spray it effectively. By the time you thin it enough to flow through the screen it runs....as you found out.

3) Make sure the paint is warm. The surface is warm. The water you use to thin it is warm. Latex gets thicker as the termperature drops. Not a problem with a brush. Big problem with spray application.

4) Do not add more than about 10% water to your paint and mix in the cup, not the paint can. Stir it thoroughly until the paint in your cup is well mixed and then when you spray, do not use a wide fan. All this does is splatter the paint and does not flow well.

5) You may find you are using a pressure much higher than you would with lacquer, acrylic enamel, or even rustoleum. Remember the latex is inherently heavier with larger particles and it takes more to get it through the nozzle.

6) Be sure to clean the gun IMMEDIATELY after finishing spraying. Latex that has dried is dang near unaffected by solvents or removers so if your gun has paint dry inside the passages it will likely not ever be as clean as it was before you sprayed the Latex.

In summary, the temperatures are the most important. Things just will not work well if it is colder than about 55. By the same token, if it is 100 it may be that things are working a little too fast.

Just my two cents......

RL

 

[mkcoen]

My experience is as follows:

1) use an HVLP gun.

That's what I'm using. I'll try the other suggestions (screen, pressure, etc) on the next go around.

6) Be sure to clean the gun IMMEDIATELY after finishing spraying. Latex that has dried is dang near unaffected by solvents or removers so if your gun has paint dry inside the passages it will likely not ever be as clean as it was before you sprayed the Latex.

Not dealing with the gun but no truer words were ever spoken. Since I don't like sanding all that much I figure why not just rinse it off with a pressure washer. Yeh it was stuck like glue in a number of places. This was about 45 minutes after I initially sprayed it.

When the pressure washer wasn't doing the trick I switched to hot water, Dawn, and a worn scratch pad. Didn't do much better.

I'm convinced if I can get this on smoothly it'll stay on the rest of my life if not the trucks.

Pics:
1) Severe sags
2) After the pressure wash
3) After the scrub and another pressure wash

 

[maxim]

I used FLOTROL which is intended to eliminate brush marks by allowing water base to flow better. Seemed to work for me. I did not put each coat on very thick and just kept going around the truck and by the time I got back to the starting point the previous coat set set up to prevent sagging of the next. This was done with a cheapie HVLP and you have to set the lbs of pressure get your desired results. Mix it completely and strain. I did thin it with a little water.

 

[SteveKuhn]

One trick that works with getting off newly applied latex is ammonia, sudsy ammonia, or strong ammonia detergent. It acts as a solvent. Spray right on the paint to be removed, wait a few minutes, then pressure wash (warm water helps.)

Also, consider running warm soapy water thru the gun to clean it before each refill & rinse thoroughly.

 

[DoctorCheney223]

I finally finished all four of the green camo trucks today. All paint was from Home Depot mixed according the first set of colors. These trucks will be used for running advertising convoys down the Las Vegas Strip and I couldn't be happier with the results. I did all the camo free-hand so don't laugh to hard


ETA: I used Mike/wsucougarsx formulas from the original post.

 

[wsucougarx]

Looks outstanding Doc!!

 

[topgun217]

Very nice !

 

[Keith_J]

I am impressed, Doc! Yes, freehand is how camo is applied. Well, with chalk lines out of the TM.

I am also impressed with the adhesion of these paints. Paint sure has come a long way in 20 years.

 

[DoctorCheney223]

Thanks for the compliments folks but I owe it all to the man with codes

Here is a pic of the code that was listed for Idaho Surplus. The other pic is of all the trucks before I left the property about 50 minutes ago.

 

[topgun217]

Hey Doc, the pic of the paint code never posted. The trucks look great! I was gonna go with regular CARC, bit after seeing one of the members who painted his truck with the Home Depot CARC, I was very impressed.

 

[donnerwetter58]

After reading many different posts on the subject, I'm still trying to determine the correct green for a 1985 Air Force M35A2.
Some seem to think 34127 Forest Green. others 34079 Dark Green, and others 383 CARC.
Any Air Foce guys with memories of the era?

Thanks,
Dave

 

[wsucougarx]

Hi Dave, this doesn't answer your question but may help. Both of my dropside deuces ('88 and '86) were both painted with the MERDC camo pattern. One truck came from the San Diego area and the other was out of Portland, OR.

 

[Gunfreak25]

Go strata blue!