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HELP!!! Need Pulled Out of the Mud - (houston) Pasadena, TX

Alredneck

Alredneck

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Justin I was thinking you were with in 20-30 mile of there! I thought I told him to PM ya but looking back guess I didnt! OOOPPsss!:cookoo:
 
T

TexMc

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If your going to leave it ain't there somekind of salvage rites. Just kidding hope it goes well tomorrow o keep eye for updates tomorrow see if ya still need help after I git off work. Good luck
 
7Dust

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I'M OUT!

Thanks Mister Sunday!

Seriously I was down on the deuce but Keith knew just what to do. After shearing numerous pins made of 16 penny nails, a 60 penny nail is all it took.

From nearly 300 feet away, with 8x8 timber wheel chocks and another Superduty Ford as an anchor behind him, he winched me out like it was nothing.

I think we might be long lost twin brothers too. :mrgreen:

Check us out mugging for the camera (on dry pavement).

Thanks to all of you for the offers and help.
 

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oldMan99

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EDITED TO ADD: So your out! Great!! but you could have waited another 3 minutes to post that....lol... Seems you posted that while I was in the process of posting the following...

Glad your out!

So, have you figured out what was wrong with the front axle yet?

Original post follows:

subscribed....

I know it is a bit late but.... In any vehicle your planning on taking of the pavement I always suggest the following:

1: If you only have 1 winch, put it on the back of the vehicle.
2: Have at least 2 properly rated snatch blocks
3: Have your winch full of cable whatever the capacity of it is.
4: Have extra cables, I like 1x50' and 4x100' That combined with the winch usually gives over 500' of reach.
5: Have 6 properly sized cable clamps (And know the proper way to use/apply them!)
6: Have 3-4 each of 6 to 8' choker chains/cables or nylon straps.
7: Have at least 4 shackles
8: Have at least 1 30 or 40’ snatch strap
9: Have at least 1 hi-lift jack, 2 is better
10: Have a pointed tip shovel, 2 is better
11: Have an Axe
12: Have a sledgehammer
13: Have something to make a "Sand anchor" out of. The ability to make 2 or 3 is better. (More on this later)

NOTE: ALL equipment must be working load rated to handle the maximum potential load the vehicle is capable of inducing on the equipment. This is to be expected and below I’ll not mention it but will instead take it for granted that it is completely understood.

Explanations:

1: Rear mounted winch: In this case it is perfectly clear why a rear winch would have been far more useful than a front mounted one. I have found that over many years of offroading I have self winched backwards (usually only necessary to go a few feet) far more often than I have gone forward. This allows me to find a new/better/different line to attempt, find a completely new route around the problem area or abandon the effort and go do something else. Going forward usually means a further commitment into….. Who knows what. Not that I never go forward, but backward almost always works. Mounting winches in the front is usually relatively easy, looks good (Most of the time) and is where most people automatically assume the winch should go. Mounting the winch on the back is usually more difficult than front mounting, almost always looks better than front mounting and is almost never even considered by most people. Mounting one on both ends is the ultimate and is what I always try to do on my off road vehicles.

2: Snatch blocks: Goes without saying they are imperative. Many uses. Take a look at the link to the winching instructions for some very good examples of snatch block use. 2 is minimum, 3 is better.

3: Winch full of cable: Again, self explanatory. Give you longer reach and makes it easier to deploy the snatch block. Keep in mind that the more cable on the drum the less power the winch has. For max power, find a way to use more of the cable, like… using a snatch block to both double the pulling power and unwind more cable from the drum…

4: Extra cables: Self explanatory. I like a slip hook on one end (With the spring safety catch) and a grometed eye on the other. Hooks on both ends is also acceptable as is grometed eyes but then you will need shackles or other proper means of connecting the cables.

5: Cable clamps: For repairing broken cables. Remember, “Never saddle a dead hose” The saddle part of the clamp is the flat part with the holes in it, not the “U” bolt looking part. The “Live end” of the cable is the long part that goes to the other end of the cable. The “Dead end” is the short end you are folding over to make the loop. You MUST use 3 clamps per end that you are repairing. The clamps must be the proper size for the cable you have. Install the clamps, put a moderate load on the cable, slack the cable and check the tightness of the clamps. Retighten any that have become loose. Tighten the cable again, loosen and recheck. Be VERY careful in using a repaired cable as it may fail again, either at the repair point or some other place along it’s length. After your back in the world have the cable cut about 12’ south of the first clamp and a proper end installed by a professional cable making company.

6: Choker chains/straps/cables: For attaching to trees, vehicles and pretty much anything you need to attach to. More is better.

7: Shackles: The primary interface between your various chokers, extender cables, chains and so forth. Again, more is better.

8: Snatch strap: If your going to attempt to vehicle pull (not use a winch) another vehicle out, this is the only way to go. Chains and cables can and will rip out mounting points, pull bumpers off and or destroy themselves. A properly sized snatch strap on the other hand is like a huge bungee cord. It absorbs the shock load and then uses it to literally snatch a stuck vehicle out of whatever it is stuck in. I have (on several occasions) used a much smaller vehicle to pull a much heavier/larger vehicle out of some pretty good “stucks” using a heavy snatch strap. In the several dozen times I have used a snatch strap I have yet to cause damage to either vehicle. For a Deuce sized vehicle, I think your going to want a 6” wide strap.

9: Hi-lift jack: I’m not sure this is enough jack for a Deuce sized vehicle. I’m sure others can advise on this. If it is not, then properly sized jacks with a lot of lift should be obtained/carried/used. Proper jack suggestions??

10, 11, 12: Don’t think these need any explanation at all.

13: Sand anchor. These are for when your … where you are now! When your “Miles” form something appropriate to attach a winch cable to. As noted in the instructions in the previously noted link, you can dig a hole and bury the spare (after you attach the winch cable to it!) fill in the hole and commence to pulling. Took me all of 8 seconds to type that, will take you a hour or two to dig a large and deep enough hole to properly anchor a deuce size tire. On the other hand, you have already been working at this what, 2 days? J I have a friend that carries 9 old axle shafts. One end has been ground to more or less a point, (Not really sharp, more like tapered) the other end has a “D” tab securely welded about 6” from the end. You go out as far as needed (Within cable reach) and drive one into the ground at a 45 degre angle away from the vehicle. Step about 6’ back in a straight line and sink another and then 6’ back and sink #3. Using some of the chain you always carry you connect the 3 spikes together at the “D” tab and attach the winch to the closest one. Winch on. If they start to move stop. Take your remaining 6 shafts, more chains and make a “V” from the furthest spike outwards. Use 3 spikes on each leg of the “”V”. Attach the new spikes to the previous #3. You now have the initial 3 spikes being held by 2 additional sets of 3 spikes, 9 total. Go winch some more. This, combined with some proper digging/clearing/filling at the vehicle wheels should get you out. If not…. Consider this a really bad stuck…lol. There is an example of something very much like this method in that link previously mentioned but they are using lumber and making what looks like anti-landing craft barriers found on the beach during “D” day. There is also a commercial product that I have been very much wanting to get and test. Everything I have ever read about it is very positive and it sure looks promising. You can also connect 2 or 3 of them for maximum support. Much lighter and easier to deploy than lumber or axle shafts. http://www.pullpal.com/aboutPP.html They are not at all inexpensive and for a Deuce you’ll need 2 of the largest ones they make.

Failing the above, a good friend with a fully functional M936 would sure be nice to have on speed dial, or better yet, in the back of the convoy…! The only thing better than that might be 2 friends with M936’s! or maybe a VERY UNDERSTANDING friend with a flat bed, a lot of diesel and free time and a fully functional M88.

Sorry this is so long. Also sorry I live in Florida or I would already be on the way to help. So far 3 of us from FL have piped in. At least one from Alabama. Maybe the Florida contingent can head that way. Link up with Alabama and come get you out!

Good luck man. Don’t forget to hydrate! Even in this cooler weather you can dehydrate unexpectedly fast and that is just no good at all.

Please keep us posted with pics as you work on getting back to hard ground.
 

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Mister Sunday

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I need a snatch block! And Scott, where are all the other pictures and vids? Charles was saying he got quite a few pictures and somebody else out there got some video.
 
7Dust

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Not many pictures came out well last night. :(

Maybe I can get a picture of the muddy crater left in the field!
 
7Dust

7Dust

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^^^ Man you were holding out on me! I only saw the Jesus picture on your phone with the 8x8 timber (which I was kinda not going to mention) but ummmm there it is anyway.
 
ptg530C

ptg530C

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Here is a tip on how to get unstuck in mud with no help. First, find some crushed concrete and a couple of 5 gallon pails. Get a shovel and dig enough mud out in front of your front axle to move 5 or 10 feet. Dig out all wheels and pack them with the crushed concrete, including the non-working front wheels. Start off in low 2nd and you should be able to drive out.
 
docfarmall

docfarmall

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As i see it your ford with 7.3 would have done the job quite nicely if you had some slings like i have shackled them together and pulled semi's out with my 84 1 ton dually you gotta get as close as you can and mash it and most importantly do not slow down or look back its called the stand on it method works everytime.
 
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