how to turn up fuel...in pictures?

jbingvtx

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I may be way off on this but what I understand is that the turbo and non-turbo engines had approximately the same HP but the addition of a turbo gove it more potential. I don't think you can get much more out of a non-turbo engine after it's tuned to the best efficiency.
 

Billy Bobbed

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I have a non-turbo engine. How much, if any increase will I see with fuel increase? I'm not unhappy with my trucks speed or performance for the most part with the 14.00's except for speed loss at full throttle on climbs. I tend to run at around 2k-2200 on the highway, I get passed plenty, but I haven't bothered to have anyone run with me to figure out just how fast I'm going. Also without a turbo do I really need to worry about EGT? Isn't that mostly a concern with turbo destruction as the engine temp will still give me the info I need?
Turbo non turbo if you turn the fuel screw more and more on a diesel engine that puts more fuel in the engine creates heat.More fuel more EGTs,get a pyrometer if you are going to turn the fuel up to be safe.
 

Floridianson

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I had so few threads sticking out that I could only be turned up. So I don't think I have to worry about having gone too far. I will have to test it against the fastest deuce I know. poof's.
This makes me wonder. Do you have a pic of what you speek? The threaded rod should have had two nuts and about 4 to 5 threads showing and you could turn the inner nut at least 4 full turns clockwise now showing maybe 8 threads and you drag truck would smoke!!
 

kennys@wi.rr.com

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I will see if I can get pics of it in the next few days. The two nuts are there, and there was maybe 2 threads not covered. The truck runs a lot better now and won't win any races, but will at least get out of it's own way now.
 

jeep454x4

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I have a 68 and I'm not kidding when I say that if I let it it would likely do 70 or it would fly apart trying. There is safety wire on every thing under the hood and it looks stock. I noticed that my water temp does go up to around 200 when going up hills, but normally stays around 160-165, is that normal. I'm thinking that its getting to much fuel, and yes it has enough power to pull a house down. This is my first deuce and wont be the last. I would just like to know what the standard operating parameters are.
 

kennys@wi.rr.com

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That is very helpful to the understanding of how it works. Now I wonder about the nut that is on the inside of the housing and how that gets affected when we turn up the fuel. It seams like there would be a bit of slop left if we don't remove that cover and tighten that nut? Can anyone eplain the internals here a bit?
 

Mongo

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There is something here I don't understand. The fuel adjustment is on the FDC. If your FDC is leaking, the common suggestion is to bypass it. Without the FDC you have no fuel adjustment but at the same time everyone is warning that turning up the fuel too high will blow up the motor.....

What am I missing? If I bypass my FDC won't my fuel effectively be turned up full blast causing me to risk the integrity of the motor?
 

Mongo

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Never mind. After some more research I see that the FDC only sets the pedal stop and does not appear to actually adjust fuel pressure.
 

jimk

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BigHank;873811ks lik said:
I have a non-turbo engine. How much, if any increase will I see with fuel increase? I'm not unhappy with my trucks speed or performance for the most part with the 14.00's except for speed loss at full throttle on climbs. I tend to run at around 2k-2200 on the highway, I get passed plenty, but I haven't bothered to have anyone run with me to figure out just how fast I'm going. Also without a turbo do I really need to worry about EGT? Isn't that mostly a concern with turbo destruction as the engine temp will still give me the info I need?
Looks like this never got answered. My non-turbo (LD465) was weak and a smoker. I added the D turbo and it got very strong with high EGT, over 15psi. I turned the fuel down a couple times, 2-1/2 turns total, now makes 13psi at 2500rpm w/safe egt. It is still very strong. Much less smoke too. The highest egt happens at lower rpm because the turbo moves less air (lower boost). A downshift will add boost and lower egt. High egt is not a problem even towing a heavy load at WOT, as long as the rpm is high.

Adding fuel to a LD may make more power up to a point, then just smoke. The egt will not rise after that point because there is no air to support additional combustion.
 

houdel

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Also without a turbo do I really need to worry about EGT? Isn't that mostly a concern with turbo destruction as the engine temp will still give me the info I need?
EGT IS a concern even in non-turbo engines.

The highest egt happens at lower rpm because the turbo moves less air (lower boost).
Not necessarily true, highest egt may occur at higher rpms also

High egt is not a problem even towing a heavy load at WOT, as long as the rpm is high.
EXTREMELY FALSE! High EGT is dangerous at any RPM!

Adding fuel to a LD may make more power up to a point, then just smoke. The egt will not rise after that point because there is no air to support additional combustion.
WRONG AGAIN! Excess fuel is the major cause of high EGT!

Take a look at this article from Banks Engineering, it gives a lot of info as to why EGT occurs and the dangers it poses, even to non-turbo engines.

Banks Power | Why EGT is Important
 
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Blackmagic94

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EGT is always higher during hard or heavy loads.

Example, Full throttle is a high load, but full throttle going up a grade is a bigger load, and having a weighed down bed and trailer is even a bigger load.

Now my F250 will hit peaks of 1600 degrees while crossing the traps at dragstrip but its only for a brief second or two then i lift after the traps and the EGTs plummet.

The new DPF trucks run as hot as 1100 degrees at idle to clean the DPF but the trucks were in theory designed to handle this abusive climate. Honestly I dont see a LDT melting down if you hit 1200-1400 degrees for short periods, now running that hot for hours up hill, yes.

A2A intercooling is your friend to reduce this issue which I have stressed as well, Im gonna figure out how to mount one on mine later this year as the water injection while it works great is going to deplete the tank to fast as another member proved, the hard part is I think im gonna have to fab a new intake manifold to have a 90 degree towards the front bumper bend to allow the intercooler plumping to fit, and then just rotate the compressor housing downward for the outlet piping.
 

OverSizeHeavyHauler

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OK......I have a question..

I pulled my FDC to adjust my turbo'd A2 and was scratching my head at what I saw...I even had to break out my laptop on site just to look it up.

Turns out when my truck was rebuilt in Tooele, it never had an adjuster..the deal with the two 1/2" nuts and threaded shaft.

The gasket adhesive (green in color) is even down in the threads of the two holes, so it wasnt removed or even there to start with.

So I called Bob over at Memphis Equipment ( My only local contact for tech support) and he said since it doesnt have the adjustment screw, its set like that from the factory and that unless I take the IP to an injector company, its pretty much a "set it an forget it" thing.

Surely theres some way it can be turned up, as Memphis Equipment wants $1,263.00 with a $200 core charge..totaling 1463 bucks. And Clint at C& C wants 999.00 and no core charge..

Any help would be mucho appreciated-o.

Thanks yall.
 

doghead

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The "50 cent trick" that I talked about earlier in this thread.
Your increasing the servo pressure spring. Adjusting the servo pressure can be done externally also. It is not doing the exact same thing that adjusting the max fuel rate does. It will increase power, EGTs and boost(not as controlled)

With no FDC, it can't be done. The servo pressure circuit is part of the FDC.
 

doghead

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Do you have a G code IP?

Here's a pic of it inside. You'll need to remove the cover and adjust it.
 

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doghead

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Adjust the theaded stop rod on the left side of the picture. It looks to have jamb nuts. I can't open that picture to see any real detail.

I would not make any adjustment without a pyrometer installed. A boost gauge can be used but is much less absolute(indication of temp). Stay under 14 psi boost.
 

sandcobra164

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Black smoke on a Deuce is good to a point. Black smoke is fuel that has NOT been used which is ok to a point on a turbo Deuce to get spoolin, completely wasted on a N/A Deuce. If it's still rollin black smoke once the turbo is spooled, you're wasting fuel and working on burning pistons, valves and what not. I've turned mine up pretty good as well and it certainly helps. The "turbo" was only added to clean up the exhaust. To that I say, "my ass". Show me a turbo added to anything "internal combustion piston driven engine" related that did not help improve efficiency and somehow did not make more power than it's N/A counterpart. The Turbo engines add more power when turned up to a point. If the stacks blowing black under a steady pull, it's turned up too much. You can just get more "flats turned up" on a turbo motor.
 
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