how to turn up fuel...in pictures?

Rubenk

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So you can hold the inner nut steady while you tighten the outter nut. The way you did it there is a strong chance you can turn the shaft. Turning the shaft is bad.
Aha! So for the actual adjustment it doesnt matter, it is when you go to snug the outer nut down that you want to hold the inside securely to prevent the shaft turning. Right?

I did hold the shaft with a pair of snubnose pliers to try and prevent it turning.

Another question, how far can you adjust the inner nut? I turned it till there was the slightest change in resistance and stopped, then tightened the outer nut down. The truck runs great, leaves a slight trail of smoke, but even an off-idle rev doesnt produce the thick black smoke i've seen in a few videos. (Yes I have a pyro to watch temps)

Thanks!
 

crazywelder72

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fuel adjustment questions

Ok. Got my pyro installed today. took me a few hrs to fabricate the bracket (did it old school style, No using the Bridgeport).

Anyhow I have questions about the fuel adjustment. My FDC is bypassed and the fuel adjuster has not been tampered with.

I see that 1300˚ seems to be the kill temp from what ive read and 1150˚ seems to be the norm for climbing hills and 600˚- 900˚ for crusin around town.

My truck makes pretty good power now but does smoke a bit.

Should i adjust the 14 flats? If so should the truck only hit the 1200˚ with a wide open throttle in 5th gear? where or what is the bench mark for the best/safest adjustment. is it a certain speed in a certain gear holding a certain temp?

BTW....... Can anyone tell me what type of turbo mine is? It's not a whistler, thats for sure.
 

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dodgedougak

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over-fueling

Aside from the fact that someone will accidentally run it too hot - It does no good to set it up to over-fuel. The black smoke gives ammo to critics, it can cause many other problems like carboned -up injectors. It is not just a max temp adjustment. That is why the TM has a three step process, it is setting up low idle, high rpm unloaded, max fuel and droop. Just setting it to dump as much fuel as the foot feed will produce is bad medicine. Also, you can be loaded, hit a hill and put your foot to it, then check and think the temps are OK. A couple of minutes later those temps may climb to unacceptable levels. Keep watching the temps and know when to back out of it! Also realize that different fuels have different BTU values and even some #2 diesel has a lower flashpoint than other #2 fuel. They can give you different exhaust temps under similar circumstances. Set it up by the TM and you won't melt your pistons down!
 

RoughCountryRam

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Hey, I read your input on the topic and have since looked at my injection pump to see if that would work on mine. Are you referring to the 3 bolt cover that is part of the FDC. There is a picture of the FDC on the first page of the thread. Your way seems very simple if I understand correctly just wanted to clear any questions first before I try. Thanks for your help and advice Reed
 

thehaas

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i think a lot of time its not as simple as turning up fuel,injection pumps wear out and dont produce right pressures over time .also if timing of engine to ijectin pumps out truck really lag mine had red permatex on cover so i knew some one messed with.not hard to set just pain to keep on marks before tightening.i have video under bodyshop18336 on you tube
 

rebelcummins

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That might be the LDS 465-1 troubleshooting manual which states 18-20Hg art 2400RPM (~9-10ps) and 8-10" Hg at 1600RPM(~4-5psi). See page 34. It would seem that another 200RPM (2600rpm) would create about 12psi. I found that if my LD w/D turbo set at this level will create excessive EGTs only under heavy towed loads and up hill and at the lower end of the operating range. So it is pretty safe, which would seem how the engineers would have wanted the LDS. Note-less boost at lower RPM means less air, less power and higher EGT.

I moved the droop screw for more fuel but got very little extra power [at lower rpm]. I did see a bit more smoke down low. There may be little to gain because there is just no air down there. The std LDS turbo has a different, bigger, compressor than the C or D so it may be capable of making more low end. My LD w/D doesn't seem to start building until 7-8 . It is very progressive. If you can see it in the LDS power curve where it is strongest at red line(see below)

Running 15-16psi at 2600 things got rather hot on flat ground.

All this fueling will reduce fuel economy but it sure is fun to drive.

The LDS manual can be downloaded here.
Steel Soldiers :: Military Vehicles Supersite

Well have somthing to say about fuel turn up (TURN MINE DOWN)
ask pegasus55 this he knows..

I got this truck two months ago, smoks like a pulling truck.
i put a boost gauge in it and it got 15-18 psi then from take off then relaxes out to 2-3 psi on on flat groung and cant see anything behinde you...

Put 6-new injectors in it as well as a new Whistler (had a d-turbo), now it gets 22-26 psi on a hard take off then relaxes at 3-5 psi on flat ground around 2500 rpm at 50 mph
and no i do not have a pyro installed yet, do not yell at me i know, i will have one installed on monday. then ill relay the EGT info.

Should i be conserned about the boost pressure, or anything?
 

doghead

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15 or more is going to make way too much heat(EGT).
 

doghead

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Am I to assume this was all done on a level highway?

Try it again, going up a hill.

The TM tells you how to "field set" the max fuel rate, using a boost gauge. 15 psi max will keep you safe under almost all conditions.

Your testing only tests in one condition. Apply a load and you'll be way over temp.

Drive one of these trucks for a few years, turn up your fuel and monitor your temps. You'll see.
 
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barefootin

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I notice I can easily attain 2650 RPM on the highway, and if i'm not watching, exceed that engine speed, but I dont allow it. I tune in to the sounds of the engine at 2650. What is egt's?
Just because it can, doesn't mean it should..... Besides EGT's I'd be cautious of running at those RPM's.... Read any of the multiple stories on here of blocks that suddenly became ventilated. I'd refer to the TM's and make sure your govenor is set correctly if you can exceed max engine rpm. Just my 2cents
 
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RoughCountryRam

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Add two quarters under the three bolt cap, on top of the spring on your FDC. This part is responsible for metering the viscosity of the fuel being burned. By adding the quarters you simply add more spring load thus adding more fuel. It seems to be safe long term as many old school vets say this was done a lot during service. Mine has been great and now will keep up with traffic from the light but just not on the highway. After a lot of research this is the most simplistic modification. If it is too much just use one quarter and if you don't like it all just remove both, simple no counting of threads or backwards rotation just add or subtract quarters. Just remember this is a $.50 cent trick not a dollar or 75 cents or dollar fifty or more of quarters if you push the limits you need a pyro if not you will be good with 50 cents. Let us all know how you like the upgrade it is rather affordable as an option.
 
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Aside from the fact that someone will accidentally run it too hot - It does no good to set it up to over-fuel. The black smoke gives ammo to critics, it can cause many other problems like carboned -up injectors. It is not just a max temp adjustment. That is why the TM has a three step process, it is setting up low idle, high rpm unloaded, max fuel and droop. Just setting it to dump as much fuel as the foot feed will produce is bad medicine. Also, you can be loaded, hit a hill and put your foot to it, then check and think the temps are OK. A couple of minutes later those temps may climb to unacceptable levels. Keep watching the temps and know when to back out of it! Also realize that different fuels have different BTU values and even some #2 diesel has a lower flashpoint than other #2 fuel. They can give you different exhaust temps under similar circumstances. Set it up by the TM and you won't melt your pistons down!
I have a 1970 multi-fuel D turbo and I've run into a problem where the engine idles down around 500 or so and struggles to stay running. I little tug on the hand throttle and it idles smoothly. In addition, it has very little power and takes forever to get up to speed. I'd like to start learning to do my own upkeep and maintenance but navigating the TMs seems to have me totally baffled.
Can someone point out to a newbie where, and in which TM, this information is located. There are about 50 TMs for the deuce and I've been searching all week for this 3 step process and any other information on low power. I guess the first step is to purge any water that might be caught in the primary filter. Then possibly a filter change, which is all very straight forward... but then I see threads about fuel pressure, injector pressure, turbo pressure, egt, droop and I have no idea where to find these in the TMs. I did finally find some info in TM9-2320-386-21-1-1 about lack of power, but it doesn't mention most of what is mentioned in the threads... any help is greatly appreciated.
 

Kloakndagr

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Have you checked to see if the FDC has been bypassed if it ever had one.If it has that might be were you are getting a little extra power.
Ok, I hope I'm not committing a sin here, but I've got a question, is the "FDC" the same as the "Fuel Injection Pump Compensator"? My duece has a yellow sticker stating "diesel fuel only - fuel injection pump compensator has been by passed to prevent fuel dilution of the engine oil instruction are attached to reconnect the compensator in case of emergency use of other fuels" there is also a Tooele Depot sticker underneath the yellow one above. Does this mean my multi-fuel is no longer a multi fuel. Will reconnecting increase power? Any info would be greatly appreciate. If I've committed a sin here, I apologize in advance.
 

Floridianson

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I tried the 50 cent trick with the Fdc and it works not too much fuel but enough to feel a power increase on take off from a stop. It allows you to just let out on the clutch to get moving . Thanks again for the tip
If you have been reading then you would have seen that most here feel that the FDC should be bypassed. The fuel should then be turned up at the main fuel adjustment stud. If you want fuel mixed with your oil then by all means leave the FDC working and quarters in place.

Mods need to lock this thread please.
 

ICAT

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I'm not sure if I missed it but if you by pass the fdc, should you turn down your fuel or leave it?
 

jsthnt@gmail.com

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On a pump with the fdc hooked up, is the bolt pointing toward the radiator with the 2 nuts the one you turn? If so mine does not have a hole in the end to hold the bolt with. Every time that I tried to turn the lock nut, the bolt wanted to move. There were holes in the nut like the set screw on the caller of a reloading die. Can someone with this type of pump put a video of how this is done? I also have a ton of thread left on this bolt. My truck was a non turbo and I added the turbo. Thanks
 
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