how to turn up fuel...in pictures?

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Ok, I sanded down a wrench so that I could hold both nuts at the same time and the shaft did not turn at all. So which way do you turn it to increase it (is it the more the bolt sticks out the more fuel.) and which way to decease it. Mine was a non turbo that I added a turbo to. The bolt is sticking out a long way. And after I get into it a 1/4 or half of the pedal I get no gain from pushing it the rest of the way to the floor.
 

DeucesWild11

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More thread = more fuel from what I have read. Show some before and after pics of what you adjusted. For a thread called "How to turn up fuel in pics" there are not allot of pics..?
 

Floridianson

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fdc_conversion_142.jpg

Increase fuel decrease droop if FDC is bypassed buy you. Bypass FDC do not use quarters dont not adjust the FDC servo adjusting screw ( the one with the round cap and allen head on the end of the stud. If the FDC is there adjust the stud under the three bolt triangle cover. There is the stud with two nuts togeather. Hold the inner one just loosen the outer one clock wise the inner to increase. Hold inner retighten outer jam nut. Without FDC remove the cover where FDC should be and hold eather nut on one side of the block or the outher but to increase the inner nut will have to be spun clockwise looking from the front of motor. Then tighten the nut that is on the outher side of the wedge block. The are pics and threads on both with and without FDC. OK
 
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brianp454

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I bypassed my FDC Saturday and posted a video of it on Youtube: http://youtu.be/P0p6Kp_h2mY

I'm not sure it is necessary to turn down the fuel after bypassing the FDC. I'm learnign when the temps go out of control and appreciate the extra power greatly.

My setup:
LDT-465 with C turbo that was rebuilt ~93, ~1600 hours
JATonka filters all around that have been replaced (the fuel was clean beforehand)
POP tested my injectors (all OK, it's on youtube)
Running #2 with ~15% bio, it's all you can find in the Portland area (that I know of)
Added peashooter gage box with pyro with thermocouple pre-turbo and boost gage (I get up to 7psi boost at high RPM when it runs good, 4psi or less when it runs bad)
Little to no smoke unless I goose it at idle
Just installed 365/80R20's after flipping hubs and rebuilding the rear axles (new seals, cleaned brakes and all that). It seems to go down the road a bit easier now
 

frigar78

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Drill hole to proper size, run pipe tap down to proper depth, install pyro.

Most pyro sensors are 1/8-27 NPT. Tap drill size is .332", or letter "Q" bit.

Depth of thread: Official technique to get proper depth is to run the tap in 12 turns. I just go by eye though, and tap until the threads are cut enough to have a full, clean thread, then adjust for the job. For something like a pyro, you may not always have room to go full depth, so you can adjust as needed.

Jim
just my 2cents as a machiist..... general rule of [thumbzup] you run the tap in 3/4" of flute lenth or all but 7 threads.... its useually works out pretty good. unless you have to check it with a gauge but im not gonna go into that
 

Lieutenant Dan

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Oh ok cool. And I don't need a special wrench for that like the one with the two nuts on the outside right?

I'm pulling the stud to the rear of vehicle or the front?
 

Floridianson

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Yes you just need a thin wrench to hold the inner nut and just loosen the outer nut a bit. Mark the inner nut with black marker and turn it clockwise looking from front of truck. When done hold inner with thin and tighten outer. Did you bypass the FDC. most of the time that will give you an increase but if you install pyro then adjust to Temp.
 

Floridianson

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You want me to decide for you. OK we are bypassing. The double nut under the cover is the main fuel adjustment and what you want to play with and a pyro. Forget the quarter crap. Just bypass the FDC and see if you like the increase. It takes about 1/2 hour and everything you need is at NAPA. Synflex line.
 
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m16ty

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I just use a spare wrench that I ground down thin to fit.

The main thing to remember is to not let the stud spin when adjusting. If I turns it can mess up stuff on the inside.
 

brianp454

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What are you waiting for? I have a couple youtube videos that walk through it. You definitely should do it before goofing with the fuel adjustments. It doesn't take long and actually reduces risk due to eliminating fuel paths into the oil that can lead to disaster. What I learned by doing it is consistent with JAtonka and others that did it some time ago. I find that EGT's are fine as long as you don't stand on it while humping heavy grades in 5th high. Do you have a thermocouple in the exhaust?

Lol I guess I'm bypassing haha.... I understand the benefits.... Just didn't know if I wanted to mess with it.
 

Floridianson

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Smoke cam red droop is yellow line.We can adjust them if you have a droop to decrease the fuel on the lower end if it smokes to much or you want to save fuel. Most of the time bypassing FDC will raise both main and droop. Need to lower droop to save fuel. IE Black smoke in there face. The picture is a pump without FDC ever installed.
 

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rebelcummins

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just be advised if you turn the fuel up too far the FDC will do strange things to the engine like, stuttering shuttering missing popping through the exhaust bad fuel mileage loss of power extreme amount of black smoke and high EGT's at least this happen to me not saying it would happen to you. I also do know this from experience if the FDC is still attached and working when you turn it up and if you start using waste oil for some reason it counteracts with that system and it doesn't run properly when. Now, when I bypassed it runs good and doesn't stutter doesn't miss runs excellent but I still have an issue of running straight diesel fuel, not sure why that is but that is one of the issues I'm still having. I can only run waste oil without the FDC and can only run diesel fuel with the FDC as long as its not turned up....
 
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