Its cold outside lets talk Heaters, H81, H82, H83, etc.

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Isaac-1

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Escobar, do you mean the circuit breaker that provides power to your outlet, or the safety reset button on the K8 relay on H82?

On a side point I was working on my H82 today also, it had developed a fault so that when the thermostat reached set point to switch heat on or off, the heat control / pressure gauge would oscillate crazily on and off multiple times per second for 3-5 seconds before settling on being on or off. Eventually tripping the safety cut off. Replacing the thermostat control unit and the return side temperature sensor with a one I bought on ebay a couple of weeks ago seems to have solved the problem, it now reaches set point and switches on or off and has about a 3 degree swing between on and off set points. The new control unit from ebay is listed as

H82 HEATER CONTROL 8720694-1 and was priced at under $20, best money I have spent on this heater so far.

p.s. this new controller seems to be a newer revision of the controller that was in my H82, has Phillips head screws vs flat heads on the terminal strip, etc.
 
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escobar420

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Escobar, do you mean the circuit breaker that provides power to your outlet, or the safety reset button on the K8 relay on H82?

On a side point I was working on my H82 today also, it had developed a fault so that when the thermostat reached set point to switch heat on or off, the heat control / pressure gauge would oscillate crazily on and off multiple times per second for 3-5 seconds before settling on being on or off. Eventually tripping the safety cut off. Replacing the thermostat control unit and the return side temperature sensor with a one I bought on ebay a couple of weeks ago seems to have solved the problem, it now reaches set point and switches on or off and has about a 3 degree swing between on and off set points. The new control unit from ebay is listed as

H82 HEATER CONTROL 8720694-1 and was priced at under $20, best money I have spent on this heater so far.

p.s. this new controller seems to be a newer revision of the controller that was in my H82, has Phillips head screws vs flat heads on the terminal strip, etc.
I meant that the circuit breaker that provides power to outlet keeps tripping. its on a 20 Amp breaker (which always had no issue running the heater prior to the "K8 Red light of death").

Last night i re-wired the original K8 and the result is it doesn't trip the circuit any more,
but still nothing happens with its flipped to "Heat" - fuel pressure stays around 20-30psi. Red light comes on k* - No Alarm. ( not sure if it died but it doesn't sound any more"

Isaac, I also purchased the heater control because of its price,....do you think replacing this component will have any effect on the K8 Relay.
 

escobar420

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I had time to install the ‘new’ k8 on a spare heater, it worked as designed so i am at a loss why it didn’t work for yours unless there are other problems. Verify that the spade connectors are not touching, i had issues with them wanting to twist and touch while tightening.

View attachment 713710View attachment 713711
155MM i still cant get over how you purchased the same replacement relay and it worked for you and not me!

I'm sure everything is wired correctly. - i even reinstalled the original k8 and no tripping the breaker on heat mode.

I'm at a loss.
 

155mm

Chief and Indian
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There is such thing as bad new parts, and these are NOS so there is a higher chance of getting nonfunctional parts. If you have the funds available, I would order another new K8, but I would send the seller a pm letting him know that the first one was bad. He might offer a better deal on the second if he knows the first one was DOA.
 

escobar420

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There is such thing as bad new parts, and these are NOS so there is a higher chance of getting nonfunctional parts. If you have the funds available, I would order another new K8, but I would send the seller a pm letting him know that the first one was bad. He might offer a better deal on the second if he knows the first one was DOA.
I literally already did that,

I tried the second k8 relay last night and confirmed the same results

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-EAS-Systems-Thermostatic-Switch-8720725-1-668Z-670-668Z-671-5930012945759/112503944796?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

i will be returning the second one.
 

155mm

Chief and Indian
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maybe you need to send me one of your k8 so we can verify your heater isnt eating them. is your hour meter disconnected? if not, unplug it and the rectifier
 

escobar420

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maybe you need to send me one of your k8 so we can verify your heater isnt eating them. is your hour meter disconnected? if not, unplug it and the rectifier
I tried unplugging the hour meter last night for the first time no effect....what is the rectifier again?

Is there a way to use an electrical test meter to determine whats tripping up the circuit? can a regular boiler guy possibly figure this out?

ill send you the k8 if you want to try it out.
 

155mm

Chief and Indian
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Screenshot_3.png

its mounted on the inside, next to the switches.

the only way i know is with a clamp over dmm that has amp and put it on max hold. then its just a process of clamping over each wire on the junction block to find the one that is pulling the amps.

has that breaker been tripped alot of times? could the breaker be 'tired'?

i think a boiler guy could figure it out, its all the same concept and parts just put together differently.
 
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Isaac-1

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After partly dissecting my old temperature control thermostat (the one with flat head only screws on the terminal strip not the new style one with the combo Phillips / flat screws). I am not impressed with its construction, the circuit board looks like something from a roll your own board design out of a 1970's hobbyist magazine, there was obvious trace patching done with a soldering iron due to poor float tinning, and corrosion was visible on a number of the solder joints, there was no protective coating of any kind. I have only seen the back side of the board as the terminal strip must be unsoldered to get to the front side, but based on what I saw it looks fairly simple possibly with one IC in a DIP package. I have not dissected one of the newer control thermostats, but based on what I saw in the old style one I would encourage everyone to change them out, under the assumption that the newer style ones can't be worse.
 

155mm

Chief and Indian
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After partly dissecting my old temperature control thermostat (the one with flat head only screws on the terminal strip not the new style one with the combo Phillips / flat screws). I am not impressed with its construction, the circuit board looks like something from a roll your own board design out of a 1970's hobbyist magazine, there was obvious trace patching done with a soldering iron due to poor float tinning, and corrosion was visible on a number of the solder joints, there was no protective coating of any kind. I have only seen the back side of the board as the terminal strip must be unsoldered to get to the front side, but based on what I saw it looks fairly simple possibly with one IC in a DIP package. I have not dissected one of the newer control thermostats, but based on what I saw in the old style one I would encourage everyone to change them out, under the assumption that the newer style ones can't be worse.
photos
 

Isaac-1

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I will try to get back to that project and post some tomorrow, I had planned to take some but got side tracked when I saw a soldering iron was needed for full disassembly.
 

Isaac-1

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Here is a photo of the back side of the circuit board, pay particular attention to the traces in the upper right corner, the corrosion around the screw hole, etc.

H82-temp-control.jpg
 

155mm

Chief and Indian
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Isaac, was this out of an army use heater that probably got psi washed? or was it from a long term storage, real 1 hour heater?
 
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Isaac-1

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This heater had its hour meter disconnected, so I don't know actual hours, but based upon cosmetic condition when I bought it, I suspect it was relatively low use. Though being in Louisiana with high humidity anything is prone to rusting.
 

Cdtdiesel

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It was running fine for a few hours shut it off came back out and it turns on runs for about 20 seconds and then alarm goes ofg


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155mm

Chief and Indian
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Check the flame sensor for proper alignment. The sensor is held in place with a rubber tube, tube gets hot, then cools down and pulls the sensor out of alignment. Not the greatest enginerding , had 1 heater that had to be re-engineered with plastic ties to keep it in place.
 

Cdtdiesel

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Check the flame sensor for proper alignment. The sensor is held in place with a rubber tube, tube gets hot, then cools down and pulls the sensor out of alignment. Not the greatest enginerding , had 1 heater that had to be re-engineered with plastic ties to keep it in place.
Thank you checking it now


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