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LSSV: 2005 Chevy Crew Cab, Fl to VA and back.

HETvet

Member
395
5
18
Location
Bedford, texas
If it has an LLY motor in it, change the turbo mouth piece out for a LBZ one. worth 2-5 hp and a 2% increase in economy. If it has an over heating issue, look up the RAD Mod V2. Also make the oil cooler remote mounted. With the T-case, look up what pump rub is and its fixes. Just giving you a friendly heads up. Awsome truck.
 

Stretch44875

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And EGR blocker plate, easy and cheap. EGR fills up the intake with crap on these motors(just did the heads on my 06, they were nasty) You may need a finger block(I think it is called) so you don't get check engine light.

Pump rub kit is 50 bucks on ebay, but you are probably okay for a while with the low mileage.

If you really want to get into it, check out the duramax forums. You can get a lot of power out of these. I have EFI live on mine, and love it, lots of power, and better mileage.

Almost bought a military one, but wanted a short bed. And wife didn't want a camo truck...
 

HETvet

Member
395
5
18
Location
Bedford, texas
Finger stick. But EFI live can also tune out the EGR all together. I personally own an 05 D Max/Allison truck. I have experienced pump rub, and after that I feel fixing it before it shows its ugly head is worth it hands down. I also have the EGR blocked and EGR cooler re - routed, and the PCC vent re - routed in to a catch can. After cooler and intake track are good and clean and will stay that way now.
 

Stonepicker1

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I replaced the missing radiator drain plug and filled it with coolant. Let it run to operating temp and then topped off the coolant after it cooled down.

Let the transmission warm-up and added two more quarts.

I need to replace the battery that is mounted on the frame under the passenger door. The used one is not cutting it and having to jump start. Charging system is working good.

Front diff drain plug will be here on Friday.

Started to clean the interior and it got dark outside.

Check engine light is on.:cry:
 

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Stretch44875

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Check engine light on these is sensitive. I've had it light for stupid stuff. Sometimes just having the batteries out will do it. Read the codes, clear it, and see if it comes back.
 

Stonepicker1

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I cleaned the inside up today. Cleaned the dash, seats and washed out all the dirt on the floor. Now it's looking like new inside, except for the inside drivers door. I have to install the window track yet.

I let it run for about an hour and the "check engine light" is now off.:D

I found the part number for the front axle drain plug(that was missing) and ordered it yesterday. Hope it is the right one.

I'll take some pictures of the inside later.
 

HETvet

Member
395
5
18
Location
Bedford, texas
Does the truck have the RPO code sticker in the glove box? It's the white sticker with all the codes, typically 3 letters and numbers, in the glove box. If i could get the codes from that, I could give you all the info on the truck.
 

Stonepicker1

Well-known member
2,441
77
48
Location
Coconut Creek, Florida
Does the truck have the RPO code sticker in the glove box? It's the white sticker with all the codes, typically 3 letters and numbers, in the glove box. If i could get the codes from that, I could give you all the info on the truck.
Thinking of buying a Actron CP9580A autoScanner Plus OBDII. I can use it on my CUCV-II's also.
 

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Warthog

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GT4 shows to be 3.73 gears and G80 Gov-Bomb. It is a 2500HD
 
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HETvet

Member
395
5
18
Location
Bedford, texas
It's really pixulated. The G80 is built by detroit. It also has a 3.73 gear. Where was it built? What's the engine code? What Alison trans? From there I can give you the info as to how to get the good stuff. Lol
 

Warthog

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LLY and Allison 5speed 1000. Code CMD shows it is Flint MI.
 
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HETvet

Member
395
5
18
Location
Bedford, texas
The LLY has the largest turbo out of the duramax engines. The turbo mouth piece from a lbz, ported if you like, or a PPE unit will increase power and effeciency. The valve body out of a 6 speed and a TCM re - flash and it's now a 6 speed trans. The front differential might be cast iron. Some of them were manufactured in Louisiana have the same part number, but we're made out of cast iron.

Some of the LLY engines have a problem over heating. It has to do with the turbo and how they designed the oil cooler. Most common is the RAD MOD V2. This increases both Coolant capacity and radiator surface area. The most effective fix is a conventional oil cooler and a bypass hose for the factory cooler. I hope i have helped and please let me know if there is any thing else I can help with.
 
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