M1010 for my daughter the field biologist

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Jpg look for an upper radiator hose shield and use it down on the lower

The lower hose makes a bunch of turns that the upper does not. The upper shield would not help protect the lower hose.

If you look at post 306, the first photo shows the view from the water pump end of the hose, You can see how the hose makes turns before the rubbed spot. The third photo shows how my improvised shield sits about in the middle of the hose. A shield attached to the hose clamp wouldn't work.

 

[Csm Davis]

Do you need a picture of the stock one?

 

[Skinny]

Whatever you do, hang onto the hose you have! Don't repeat my mistake. We replaced all the rubber, and trashed the old hose before we realized the K30 replacement rubs the belt. I wish I still had that old hose, to use as a model for finding a new one.

Now I want to go look at it immediately to see what it is. Thanks for the heads up. I know that both belts were on the truck and that they weren't rubbing so I assume it has the factory set up. It has 3600 miles on it so I'm praying that it all is there in stock form. I think that if I have an original I would be up for seeing what it would take to reproduce maybe with a company that does silicone hoses.

 

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Do you need a picture of the stock one?

A picture would be very helpful. Thanks!

 

[Csm Davis]

A picture would be very helpful. Thanks!

No shield on mine long way off.

 

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That is clearly different from the stock K30 hose, left, which other CUCVs and the K30 use. A part number would be *really* helpful!

 

[Csm Davis]

That is clearly different from the stock K30 hose, left, which other CUCVs and the K30 use. A part number would be *really* helpful!

View attachment 591920View attachment 591921

Are you sure it is not just on backwards?

 

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Are you sure it is not just on backwards?

I'm pretty sure. The radiator connection is 1 3/4", and the water pump is 2", so the hose diameter is different on each end. If I had it backwards, one end would be too big and the other too small. I'm no mechanical genius, but I'm pretty confident I got this right.

I've also tried rotating the hose to a different orientation. No luck.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Hose looks similar to me in shape, just not rotated right. Sometimes hoses aren't made quite right, you just have to force them to fit the way they are supposed to.

 

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Fresh wheel paint and loosening lug nuts.

When I went over the truck looking for rust, I wire brushed the rust off the wheels, treated them with Rust Reformer, and painted them.

I always worry a little about fresh paint and lug nuts. I figure the paint can act as a lubricant, allowing formerly frozen lug nuts to loosen. So I check the lug nut torque every so often. I checked it tonight, in preparation for the Veteran's Day parade. It had been about 1,000 miles since I last checked, and I got a little movement on a handful of lug nuts. It was only a small fraction of a turn, but enough that I noticed. I figure I'll keep checking the torque until it's stable and they don't move at all when I check.

Lots of folks paint their wheels. I had to do it to treat the rust. I mention the torque re-check here because I've not seen this issue addressed. Perhaps I missed it. Perhaps I'm the only newbie who didn't know about this.

I know I'm not the only one to worry about loose lug nuts. There are products out there to address this. These yellow indicators are supposed to make it obvious if a lug nut has turned.

I just check mine with the torque wrench. My lug nuts still seem to loosen a bit, and I painted my wheels 2500 miles ago.

 

[Another Ahab]

Lots of folks paint their wheels. I had to do it to treat the rust. I mention the torque re-check here because I've not seen this issue addressed. Perhaps I missed it. Perhaps I'm the only newbie who didn't know about this.

I know I'm not the only one to worry about loose lug nuts. There are products out there to address this. These yellow indicators are supposed to make it obvious if a lug nut has turned.

I recall at least one other thread that dealt with the issue of anti-seize on lug nut threads.

Can't remember the final outcome of the discussion (or even if anything conclusive settled out if it).

As I recall, it was a toss-up between the "never's" and the "ok's". But somebody here might call me on that.

 

[tim292stro]

You should re-torque your nuts after the first 50 miles of driving. If any of them were rusty at the root where it pressed into the hub/axle, I would just replace them - they stretch over time, and rust at the root is a good way to snap a stud.

 

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M1010 rivet replacement for side panel sign channels.

Remounted the red cross panels in preparation for the Veteran's Day parade. Several rivets holding the aluminum channel had sheared off, others were loose, so I drilled them out and replaced them. They're 3/16 rivets, and I found a 3/16 flat screwdriver blade very helpful in prying/twisting the old rivet heads loose and pushing the old shafts into the hole and out of the way. Several of the rivet mandrels broke in the wrong place, so I used a Dremel to cut them off and grind them down. I could probably have used shorter rivets, but I wasn't sure how short was appropriate, so I used 1/2".


I couldn't find placard clips with the right hole configuration to replace the originals, so I replaced the placard clip arms with new ones. I had to bend them a little, but they work nicely. You can get placard clips from truck supply places. They use them to hold placards in place, like the ones that identify what hazardous material the truck happens to be carrying at the moment.



I'll paint them when I'm next touching up.

 

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I recall at least one other thread that dealt with the issue of anti-seize on lug nut threads.

You should re-torque your nuts after the first 50 miles of driving. If any of them were rusty at the root where it pressed into the hub/axle, I would just replace them - they stretch over time, and rust at the root is a good way to snap a stud.

My truck has mild Missouri surface rust, not the nasty road salt New England rust, so there's nothing deep. I treat the rust where I find it, by wire brushing all I can, and rust reforming the rest. The wheel and hub each had this treatment, plus the wheel was painted, so there are new coatings in there. The lug nuts and studs were cleaned and rust reformed. There wasn't much coating left on the threads, but there was newly reformed rust, which is a different surface.

Since I messed with these threads and mating surfaces, I'm keeping a closer eye on lug nut torque than usual, until I trust that things are stable. Since I'm still seeing slight movement after 1,000 miles and several re-torquings, I thought it worthy of mention. It would be a bummer to have your wheel pass you on the road because you painted it and didn't realize that might impact lug nut torque. Maybe the old timers all know about this, but as a newbie, I'd not seen it mentioned anywhere.

 

[ODFever]

I'm glad you highlight the problem of painting lug nuts and studs. I wire brush and tape all studs and threads when I paint hubs and nuts so no paint gets anywhere near the threads.

 

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I'm glad you highlight the problem of painting lug nuts and studs. I wire brush and tape all studs and threads when I paint hubs and nuts so no paint gets anywhere near the threads.

You've addressed part of the issue, but there's another factor that may be in play here. The lug nuts press the wheel against the hub. In painting both the wheel and the hub, I added layers of paint that have some initial thickness. The forces at play between the wheel and the hub could compress that thickness, either by crushing the paint layers or squeezing them out of the way. Reducing the thickness of that layer of paint has a similar effect to loosening the lug nuts a little.

We need to treat the rust and paint these things to preserve the steel. I expected to need to re-torque after rotating the tires, and I expected the fresh paint to require additional re-torquing. I am surprised to find myself still tightening the lug nuts a little when checking the torque for the 5th time, 1500 miles later.

 

[Another Ahab]

We need to treat the rust and paint these things to preserve the steel. I expected to need to re-torque after rotating the tires, and I expected the fresh paint to require additional re-torquing. I am surprised to find myself still tightening the lug nuts a little when checking the torque for the 5th time, 1500 miles later.

Maybe it's a lesson-learned here:

- They can't be tightened and forgotten.

I'm guessing wheel nuts are always going to be susceptible to moving, and maybe we should all treat them that way.

Nothing to lose if you do.

But a whole LOT to lose if you don't (including the whole wheel; NOT good).

 

[tim292stro]

In racing they call it "nutting and bolting" - every nut and bolt gets checked for correct torque (and lock wire if applicable) before they let the car or truck loose on the track. This should be part of regular inspections to at least see if any nuts are missing or loose - I've come across cars that were missing lug nuts before in parking lots, I always either wait for the owner or leave a note.

Mostly because I've been a passenger in a Chevy S-10 that got passed by it's rear tire before... it's surreal.

 

[Another Ahab]

In racing they call it "nutting and bolting" - every nut and bolt gets checked for correct torque (and lock wire if applicable) before they let the car or truck loose on the track. This should be part of regular inspections to at least see if any nuts are missing or loose - I've come across cars that were missing lug nuts before in parking lots, I always either wait for the owner or leave a note.

Mostly because I've been a passenger in a Chevy S-10 that got passed by it's rear tire before... it's surreal.

Not good. I'm glad you're here to tell that story. Love to hear more detail BTW. Was the "landing" smooth!?

 

[tim292stro]

Nope went "boom" then it slid into a curb...

Memorable though.