M1010 for my daughter the field biologist

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Forget the birds and the flowers. The real definition of Spring is when AntennaClimber's Glowplug controller card stops turning on the "Wait" light.

Should we have a thread for "Stupid CUCV Tricks?" I can remove the key while the engine is running. This let's me keep the parking gate fob on my key ring, which is convenient, but strange.

I spent 5 hours 1-on-1 with a 3 year old on Sunday. At her insistence, we spent 2 solid hours in the M1010 playing "What's That?" We went through everything. She took a band-aid from the First Aid kit for her purse, in case someone gets an owie.

News flash for those who are not fashion forward -- it's very important that your donut match your purse.

 

[ODFever]

She's adorable and intelligent, and you're screwed. It looks like she's getting hooked on the old OD Iron at the perfect age!! Please continue to nurture her love for military vehicles. As she grows, teach her how to maintain that beast. We need to pass our addiction on to the younger generations. If we don't, all of our hard fought restorations will either rust away or be crushed and sent to China....

 

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Maybe file this one under "stupid CUCV tricks". I considered a number of schemes for setting up a table. This approach proved simplest. I carry a backboard anyway. I mount it on the attendant's seat, using the seat belt and 2 lengths of parachute cord. It's as stable as most foldable camp tables, it rolls fore and aft with the attendant's seat, latching in place where you want it, and the seat makes the height adjustable too. It's narrower than the table you'd get in an 8-person restaurant booth, but it works pretty well. It gives you a place to put down your plate and your drink. (My cousin sent me the cookies. I always did like her...)


The 2 people seated forward on the driver's side need to negotiate their way around the base of the attendant's seat. The other 6 can just slide in like a restaurant booth.

The best part is that there's no additional hardware required. I added 2 lengths of parachute cord to the stuff I had already, and now I have a functional, if mildly eccentric, table for 8.

 

[Another Ahab]

Plus you also have a backboard (and hope that you never need it; but if you do, there it is doubling as a table top). That's pretty slick!

 

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I've been feeling like the truck is pretty solid and reliable, until this morning.Heading into work, traffic was heavy and I had to step on the gas to get into a narrow gap. When I stepped on the gas, I heard a "snap", something flew past my face, and the accelerator pedal was no longer connected to the throttle. I quickly threw it into reverse and, with the engine at idle, backed out of traffic. Fortunately, I was only a block from home, so I was able to get back to the driveway with the power available from the engine at idle. I did have to use low range, but I got there.I found these parts on the floor:

Evidently, the truck was missing this part, below, and someone had zip-tied a piece of plastic in its place. They didn't even use a good zip-tie. Neither I nor my mechanics noticed before it broke. It seems this missing item is part of the throttle cable, since the -30p doesn't list it as a separate part. I rarely stomp on the gas, and it was below freezing last night, so the combination of cold and force broke the zip tie. I've driven > 7,000 miles with that zip tie in place. I'm feeling lucky nothing bad happened, and cursing the guy who left that repair in place. I can understand an expedient to get you home, but I can't forgive leaving it there.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Interested in seeing the outcome/solution to this. As I understand, NOS throttle cables are made of unobtanium and replacements are not ideal.

 

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Well that was miserable. When I played football, I was Left Tackle, so you can imagine how well I fit under the dash of a CUCV. I can't get more than one hand on the cable at a time, so my options are limited. I split a short length of hose, wrapped it around the last 2" of the cable, and used my smallest vise grips as a clamp on the end of the cable. The hose protects the cable from the vise grips, and it makes the diameter large enough that it can't jump out of the slot at the top of the accelerator arm.



This is clearly not a long-term solution, but it's better than the wire tie.

How do people work on things like this? Do I need to disassemble the dash? Remove the seat? Maybe both? The TM says I can push the accelerator cable through the firewall into the engine compartment. I guess I'll try that next. Maybe I can do that with one hand...

 

[joshuak]

I have not had to work on the accelerator cable, but removing the seat has proven to be worth the effort for my under dash/column work.

 

[Another Ahab]

I've been feeling like the truck is pretty solid and reliable, until this morning.Heading into work, traffic was heavy and I had to step on the gas to get into a narrow gap. When I stepped on the gas, I heard a "snap", something flew past my face, and the accelerator pedal was no longer connected to the throttle.

Evidently, the truck was missing this part, below, and someone had zip-tied a piece of plastic in its place. I can understand an expedient to get you home, but I can't forgive leaving it there.

That's not as bad as jury-rigging brake components; but it is still a sort of a dodge of a bullet.

Almost criminal. But s--- happens doesn't it. Glad it worked out OK.

 

[tim292stro]

I've had that failure on a '71 Mercury Cougar on a bridge before. I used a paracord shoelace to temporarily reconnect the throttle cable to the pedal lever - this got me off the bridge (MacGyver would have been proud). I ended up using an aircraft cable to replace the original hardware - using a swaged thimble end.

Dorman has a set of "field expedient" replacement cable ends that would work for just this type of situation - you might have to get under the hood to slack off the throttle cable so that you can get running - but it's a semi-permanent fix, good enough to finish a cross-country road trip IMHO. I now carry a set of these in my panic repair box.

 

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My cable has the end swage. It's missing a part that sits between the 2 swages and fits in the hole in the accelerator lever arm.

I tried pushing the cable through the firewall. I'd have to remove all the insulation in order to be able to compress the "ears" and push the cable through. Too hard. So I got a stainless fender washer with a 1/8" hole, cut through to the hole with tin snips, slid the cable in through the cut, and bent the washer flat again. Success!



I used stainless steel because I have enough rust, and because it's softer so it's easier to cut and bend.

In the right-most picture, you can see the cable re-installed, and the downshift switch. I'm guessing that's not what the downshift switch is supposed to look like, right? Is this part obtainable?

To install my washer, I had to channel my inner yogi and squeeze into ridiculous contortions. After I finished, I found 2 new parts on the floor. I'm guessing the spring is part of the downshift switch mechanism, but I can find no pictures of this detail in the TMs. Can anyone identify these parts? They fell from under the dash.

 

[joshuak]

About the down shift switch, yours seems to missing piece. Here is bad pic of mine for comparison.



Part number 1242101, seems to be available online.

 

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So it appears that the parts that flew past my face were parts of the kickdown switch. Maybe when the zip tie parted, that allowed the accelerator arm to exceed the range of motion of the switch.

 

[Another Ahab]

To install my washer, I had to channel my inner yogi and squeeze into ridiculous contortions. After I finished, I found 2 new parts on the floor. I'm guessing the spring is part of the downshift switch mechanism, but I can find no pictures of this detail in the TMs. Can anyone identify these parts? They fell from under the dash.

Reading your saga, jpg, makes me so glad this isn't my project.

But I'm loving reading about your build. You're getting it done; hang tough!

 

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I am very curious about the black part that's visible at the top of your accelerator arm. That's the part I am missing. If anyone has one, or has pictures of one, I'd be very interested to see them. I replaced it with a flat washer, but I don't really know what it was I was replacing. Thanks!

 

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On the passenger side, the push rod doesn't connect to the vent door. I'm digging through the TMs in search of clues...

 

[tim292stro]

Obviously a bar is missing...

 

[Another Ahab]

I get it; so it should be two bars crossed, so it can 'spin" open-and-closed, like a paddle, right?

 

[tim292stro]

This is the best video I can find of the cowl vent actuators in the kick panel:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ubE7Nhop7iw

Operation should be obvious

 

[joshuak]

I am very curious about the black part that's visible at the top of your accelerator arm. That's the part I am missing. If anyone has one, or has pictures of one, ...

Side note: Nicely paced project, thanks for sharing.