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I hope your daughter really appreciates you repairing her truck.
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M1010 for my daughter the field biologist
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rustystud
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It's just the old style "Hammer Crimper" . They work OK, but I prefer the "Hydraulic Crimpers" better.
I clean & abrade the surfaces with a stainless steel brush, coat generously with no-ox-id, and crimp firmly. Some folks use an impact wrench on the crimper. I've never felt the need to do that. You can over-crimp and fatigue the wire, making it mechanically more likely to fail. The tool is robust enough to take it, though. It's compact, but heavy.
The no-ox-id is not conductive. It has some chemicals that strip oxides off the metals, reducing resistance. It also coats and protects against future oxidation. Removing and preventing oxides makes the connection more conductive. If you test an isolated glob of the no-ox-id with an ohmmeter, you'll see it's not conductive.
http://www.ezred.com/product/3-point-crimper/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CT9M4FE
https://www.amazon.com/NO-OX-ID-Compound-Electrically-Conductive-Grease/dp/B00HSW341A
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This one is compact and relatively inexpensive. It uses a screw, not a hammer. You hold the blue part with a box or socket wrench and drive the screw with a 3/8 socket or impact wrench. I looked at the hydraulic ones. They look great for someone who does a lot of crimping. For the occasional crimp job, this one takes up a lot less space in my tool box. That matters to me since the tool lives in the truck.
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I have 2 tubes of NO-OX. The stuff is awesome!
rustystud
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OK I see that now. I still would have reservations using this one though. You "must" buy heavy wall brass connectors or they will "split" when you crank down on the connector. As far as the "NO-OX-IDE" goes, I love the stuff ! I have about a half gallon jug I bought a while back.
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A half gallon jug of NO OX will last you 8 consecutive lifetimes!! 
A little goes a LONG, LONG way!
A little goes a LONG, LONG way!
rustystud
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Not the way I apply it ! I like to make sure "everything" gets a good coating.A half gallon jug of NO OX will last you 8 consecutive lifetimes!!
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I'm at work. Glad I used my headphones to watch it. The fowl language blaring from my desk would have attracted some unwanted attention from my supervisor!!!
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Cooolllll.
If they ever make it big, you can bill them for using the truck.
If they ever make it big, you can bill them for using the truck.
Another Ahab
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My daughter went to grad school, so the CUCV is mine for a while longer. I installed a ham radio rig, since she spends so much time far beyond cell phone range. I got that working pretty well, and then the fuel system started acting up. The engine "stumbled" a few times one day, then it stalled a few times the next. I replaced the fuel filter, which went as described elsewhere on SS. I drove it about 7 miles, staying local at first, and then onto the interstate. On the off ramp it died. I restarted it a few times. It got harder to restart every time, then it just died. I got it off the road, and called a flat bed to haul it away.
The mechanic I've used for years is shutting down. Walmart bought the property, so he's out of business. He's sending his business to a guy down the street. That guy looked at everything and said it's all fine, I just hadn't bled all the air out of the system. He ran it for an hour in his lot. I'd done business with him in the past, but this time he totally let me down. I drove it home and it struggled to keep running. Whenever I stopped, I had to put it in neutral and gun the engine or it would stall. I got it home and started reading SS threads on fuel system issues. I bought a new filter, new sock, and the other recommended items. I went to start it, to start looking for leaks & bubbles etc., and the starter failed.
I had the starter replaced about 6 months ago, with a Napa 24V starter, so they say. It cranks *much* faster than the old starter, which they said was because it's direct drive. Well, changing the fuel filter is hard on the starter, and it got some heavy use in the last week. Then it started making a horrible grinding noise after cranking for a while. Now, it only makes the horrible grinding noise, and doesn't crank at all. And the guy who installed it is out of business.
The area around the fuel pump is wet, probably with fuel, so I may have a leak there. I ordered a new mechanical fuel pump, though I'm nowhere near as fast as Rick's wife. I may also plumb in an electric pump. I know Rick hates that, but I already own all the necessary parts. At least that would let me diagnose the fuel problem while I have no working starter.
The starter they installed 6 months ago is covered with rust & corrosion. I tried hammering on it, but that does nothing. The bolts are all tight. I can't tell if the grinding noise is due to the starter, or if it damaged the flex plate. A new flex plate is way beyond my mechanical skills.
O'Reilly has a Wilson starter they say will work, part number 91-01-4417, for $300. Special order takes a week. Hillbilly Wizard has one for $225, but I may need a different bracket for that, which they don't seem to have. I've e-mailed them for details.
I'm out of my depth, mechanically, so I have calls into locals with more mechanical expertise. Wish me luck.
Other than the above, all I've done lately is deal with rust whenever I find it. The ham rig is pretty standard, IC7100 with a Scorpion screwdriver. I used antennaclimber's trick of splitting the firewall busses into 12 and 24V, and I use that to feed the radio gear. The radio peaks at 80A, and needs a direct path to and from the battery, so the stock 12V block on the firewall wasn't adequate.
The mechanic I've used for years is shutting down. Walmart bought the property, so he's out of business. He's sending his business to a guy down the street. That guy looked at everything and said it's all fine, I just hadn't bled all the air out of the system. He ran it for an hour in his lot. I'd done business with him in the past, but this time he totally let me down. I drove it home and it struggled to keep running. Whenever I stopped, I had to put it in neutral and gun the engine or it would stall. I got it home and started reading SS threads on fuel system issues. I bought a new filter, new sock, and the other recommended items. I went to start it, to start looking for leaks & bubbles etc., and the starter failed.
I had the starter replaced about 6 months ago, with a Napa 24V starter, so they say. It cranks *much* faster than the old starter, which they said was because it's direct drive. Well, changing the fuel filter is hard on the starter, and it got some heavy use in the last week. Then it started making a horrible grinding noise after cranking for a while. Now, it only makes the horrible grinding noise, and doesn't crank at all. And the guy who installed it is out of business.
The area around the fuel pump is wet, probably with fuel, so I may have a leak there. I ordered a new mechanical fuel pump, though I'm nowhere near as fast as Rick's wife. I may also plumb in an electric pump. I know Rick hates that, but I already own all the necessary parts. At least that would let me diagnose the fuel problem while I have no working starter.
The starter they installed 6 months ago is covered with rust & corrosion. I tried hammering on it, but that does nothing. The bolts are all tight. I can't tell if the grinding noise is due to the starter, or if it damaged the flex plate. A new flex plate is way beyond my mechanical skills.
O'Reilly has a Wilson starter they say will work, part number 91-01-4417, for $300. Special order takes a week. Hillbilly Wizard has one for $225, but I may need a different bracket for that, which they don't seem to have. I've e-mailed them for details.
I'm out of my depth, mechanically, so I have calls into locals with more mechanical expertise. Wish me luck.
Other than the above, all I've done lately is deal with rust whenever I find it. The ham rig is pretty standard, IC7100 with a Scorpion screwdriver. I used antennaclimber's trick of splitting the firewall busses into 12 and 24V, and I use that to feed the radio gear. The radio peaks at 80A, and needs a direct path to and from the battery, so the stock 12V block on the firewall wasn't adequate.
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Another Ahab
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You wanted some luck, and I'm wishing it for you. ![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]")
Congratulations on grad school for your daughter, good for her.
Please keep us posted.
Congratulations on grad school for your daughter, good for her.
Please keep us posted.
Abbylind
Member
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If it still has the old stanadyne box filter It might be the mounting base. Theres a lot of documentation on this site about the sensor on the back side of the base cracking open and allowing air into the fuel system....
I replaced mine with a spin on filter No more problems!
I replaced mine with a spin on filter No more problems!
But the fuel pump is upstream of the filter, so the filter is under pressure, not vacuum, so any leak there would leak fuel out, not air in, right? I thought air leaking in happened between the tank and the pump, where the pressure is negative... When the engine is at idle, does the IP suck fuel harder than the pump pushes it?
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Hoses near the tank are subject to cracks and sucking air. Metal line there is also an issues. I had to rig up suction off the aux pickup several years ago after suffering similar issues. Once I dropped the tank, found bad hoses in the area.
Abbylind
Member
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Fuel is drawn up from the tank through the filter then to the lift pump to the IP pump and then injectors. The -20 manual can help you with the trouble shooting process and show diagrams
